Mustardxf2

Next time it does it have a spare coil on hand to swap out and see if that fixes it, if not do test to see if if distributor is putting a spark signal out and or getting spark when cranking


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I hunted this problem for months when I had it happen swapped coils multiple times and was deadset a small crack in the dizzy body that I found when I was swapping it out


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This is the package I just got from NPC




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cheap option also is this.. i never broke one again

Forgot to add, you really only need the passenger side one, as that's the one that rips apart under power. My mighty wags has done 2 already!

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Yeah definitely going back to the builder second time now even after its second rebuild and I don't want to fuck it it again because I'm not building in for the 3rd time aha

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That's what happen the first time it was built but the harmonic balancer had a crack in it and chewed both ends on the crank out. Going to go see the engine builder to cover my ass incase there is something else wrong again.

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Yeah definitely going back to the builder second time now even after its second rebuild and I don't want to fuck it it again because I'm not building in for the 3rd time aha

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Did someone say harmonics.......

Xg one, but running it east west I believe a standard crossflow one would be long enough since it's the same throttle configuration as the Weber

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Xg one, but running it east west I believe a standard crossflow one would be long enough since it's the same throttle configuration as the Weber

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Buy a bracket and find out, I will have to trim mine about half an inch to not stall on the rocker cover, the with 2" apacer.

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Coil + to relay terminal 85, then from 86 a coolant temp switch to earth. Supply from batt + to 30 with a fuse to suit, 87 to fans.

If running a ballast resistor, you might have trouble triggering the relay. You could instead feed off windscreen wiper supply.

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Harmonics flog em out at RPM pretty well.
Limits,plenty of cheap valve spring xflows with turbos hanging off the side (still slower then good NAT ASP 1's BTW) that you could ask maybe ? Most NAT ASP guys build em properly cos xflows break all the same shit in the same manner till you do all the have too's on em LOL. 
Other benefits are easier to assemble and disassemble. Heck I main studs,head studs,pan studs,manifold studs,carb studs,exhaust studs and if I could I'd run block studs for the gear box but you don't have enough room to mount it all while in the car.Stud's are da bom to work with.  

Mine was hitting bonnet with no spacer and 2" airfilter

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Yeah see what it's like then go from there

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If you've got a 600 laying chuck it on and see how it goes, my 600 was just a rebuilt one to see how it went, the new carby I got seems like it will be sweet, ran and idled smooth straight out of the box will see how it looks on dyno

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Was spinning mine to 7,000 with 600 vac secondary felt like it had more in it, reason why I got a 650 strip application

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i havent bought that gear yet but probly the blue msd epoxy coil and the red msd 6 as described in the tfi thread the streetfire is about $250 cheaper but what the hell another 2 or 300 bucks buys the good gear,all up the ignition is gunna be about a grand

No head studs?

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Mines just wierd to the three pins but with out the black but just straight up under it

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Big speedflow oil cap fitting and a -12 JIC male nipple for a breather
 

Mines just wierd to the three pins but with out the black but just straight up under it

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yep thats what i intend to do,ol.m8 has orderd another fitting to lift the oil mod connection up a 1/4 of an inch should do it,but i would be more comfy with 1/2 inch .

2.5" single muffler sounds good and not overkill, and be plenty for the crossflow
 
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