XCeed

Hi Spack,
 
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications
 
Apparently some XE 4.1L diff centres were 3.23:1, according to this website. You'll have to go looking for a needle in a haystack I imagine.

Hi Spack,
 
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications
 
Apparently some XE 4.1L diff centres were 3.23:1, according to this website. You'll have to go looking for a needle in a haystack I imagine.

Hi XES,
 
I don't know about the difference in power consumption of the two boxes, but I know you'll need a new shifter. BW40 shifter linkage is on the driver's side, C4 on the passenger side. Trans cooler lines will be different. Pretty sure you don't have to change the cross-member and tailshaft (keeping the 250).

I'm thinking repro, can't see the little number 2 on the underside of the cap. Look good though.
 
I saw those rattle can resto caps on Ebay 🤮 , they are trashed.
 
Here is where I'm at.
 

 
Three of each and a headless chook. Can you see my dilemma? Which set do I complete? I'm thinking cap 2 with the smooth top. I came across this on the Grand Tourer website:
 

 
It's more clear on their website, but the bottom right cartoon image appears to depict the machine marks, which is for XA. When you look at Ford promo photos of XCs, they're not close-up enough to see the machine marks, but they don't look like the third style I posted a picture of. So I think I'll keep looking for a No. 2 style cap to complete the set.
 
Thanks for your input Gents, much appreciated.

I'm thinking repro, can't see the little number 2 on the underside of the cap. Look good though.
 
I saw those rattle can resto caps on Ebay 🤮 , they are trashed.
 
Here is where I'm at.
 

 
Three of each and a headless chook. Can you see my dilemma? Which set do I complete? I'm thinking cap 2 with the smooth top. I came across this on the Grand Tourer website:
 

 
It's more clear on their website, but the bottom right cartoon image appears to depict the machine marks, which is for XA. When you look at Ford promo photos of XCs, they're not close-up enough to see the machine marks, but they don't look like the third style I posted a picture of. So I think I'll keep looking for a No. 2 style cap to complete the set.
 
Thanks for your input Gents, much appreciated.

the XE/XF ones are similar not round shape also. (unless fairlane/ghia/ltd etc)

Would an XC GS/GXL steering wheel do the trick. As you can see, they are not round. The bottom half has a smaller radius allowing for more leg space.
 

 
The price people are asking might be cheaper/ less hassle than modifying your seats or buying new ones. This is on Marketplace in Adelaide for $550.

Hi WyldeXE,
 
In the absence of other comments, I'm going to go out on a limb here, just to try and attract some attention to your question. I think we all want to see this XE on the road with a thumping Clevo under the bonnet.
 
I'm no expert on this, but I think you need to get a flex plate that suits the size of the bell housing attached to the C4. I believe there are differences in the bellhousing (Windsor to Cleveland) to accommodate different diameter converters. Also check the balance required and the PCD of the holes drilled to suit the 3000 converter you intend to run. 11.4" PCD attaches to a 164 tooth flex plate, 10.5" to a 157 tooth.
 
Perhaps if you post some more information, another Forum member will respond with the exact info you need. There's plenty of interest in your build, so maybe ask a Moderator to shift this post into your project thread.

Hi MrFathead,
 
This is on my things to do list for my XF but haven't got around to it.
 
Your first photo is correct with the seal lips pushing first into the housing. As Gerg says, internal oil pressure will push the seal lips against the shaft and housing for a tight seal. Next goes the backing ring with the curved side against the seal and the flat side against the circlip.
 
Not knowing the correct orientation of the dust cover prompted me to get under my XF, brush away the cobwebs and have a look.
 

 
It seems to me the flat side goes in against the circlip for the seal to clear the splines.
 
I found this on Youtube posted one year ago, a HQ coupe with a professionally rebuilt Kirby Bishop power steering box:
 

 
According to this, the orientation of the dust cover in your last photo seems correct. That's how it sits in my housing, the same as Gerg's last photo. 

Hi MrFathead,
 
This is on my things to do list for my XF but haven't got around to it.
 
Your first photo is correct with the seal lips pushing first into the housing. As Gerg says, internal oil pressure will push the seal lips against the shaft and housing for a tight seal. Next goes the backing ring with the curved side against the seal and the flat side against the circlip.
 
Not knowing the correct orientation of the dust cover prompted me to get under my XF, brush away the cobwebs and have a look.
 

 
It seems to me the flat side goes in against the circlip for the seal to clear the splines.
 
I found this on Youtube posted one year ago, a HQ coupe with a professionally rebuilt Kirby Bishop power steering box:
 

 
According to this, the orientation of the dust cover in your last photo seems correct. That's how it sits in my housing, the same as Gerg's last photo. 

I just remembered watching this vid recently & when i saw your post it reminded me of the vid👍

The Cleveland Air cleaners, are grouped into Carburettor types, and emissions vs pre-emissions vehicles.
 
Your pics are 1975 onwards (passenger vehicles)
F-trucks (commercial vehicles) were emissions exempt, thus the pre-emission aircleaners carried over, for a while.
 
The WW Stromberg carbs were fitted to XA 302, (possibly some early XB 302's),
and mid-70's F-truck 302's also.
 
Pre-emissions = no charcoal canister for fuel vapours (fuel cap vented to atmosphere),
and oil cap open to atmosphere (crankcase emissions)
 
These vehicles with 302, had a massive mouth snorkel on the air cleaner,
Hot air intake under the snorkel but no vacuum valve, and one hose to air-cleaner body for PCV.
 
Post-1975 = charcoal canister, one way valve in fuel filler cap, washer bottle relocated to behind battery to accommodate charcoal canister,
and oil cap has hose to air cleaner body along with PCV hose
 
These vehicles used a narrower 351 style snorkel - as per the pics above.
 
XA 302 air cleaners were painted red, with a 6cyl style round snorkel
Early XB pre-emissions large snorkel 302 aircleaners were painted red same as XA,
Later XB pre-emissions large snorkel 302 air cleaners, were blue
 
I haven't quite narrowed down the paint colour change-over point, yet.
 
All 351 Air cleaners were painted blue.

Free.51, you are an Officer and a Gentleman.
 
Thanks very much.

Hi Fknclevo,
 
If you decide to go with the Crossflow, read up on Slydog's XF Ute build thread in Projects/Extreme Builds section.
 
This is my favourite post of his in the thread:
 

 
😍

Hi Fknclevo,
 
If you decide to go with the Crossflow, read up on Slydog's XF Ute build thread in Projects/Extreme Builds section.
 
This is my favourite post of his in the thread:
 

 
😍

I wouldn't say any old school style will fit, but check out Pacemaker ph4030, tuned length. No good with power steering, but will fit 302W. Or PH4020, tri-Y, ok with power steering. I'm sure you'll find something off the shelf.

You wouldn't think it's the same block after I spent all day on it ,turns out it is STD bore with plenty of ware 4.374 is the largest bore so she has done a lot of miles

Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

This set might take your fancy Victor.
 
https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-ford-200-conrods-cp-forged-pistons-suit-250-x-flow-block

Mega-HP capable BW40 from my XF.
 

 
This is why I had to pull it down, burst seal and shattered diaphragm spring.
 

 
I've got a T5 buried in my shed somewhere, now I want to know if it's a world class, ratios, etc.

Well i don't bloody believe it, I think I have found the issue. 
 
In diagnostics mode I kept getting error code 21, which is ECT out of range. So tonight I disconnected the ECT plug, and bridged the pins in the plug with a jump wire, and the car fired up and ran straight away, and ran smooth. throttle was plenty responsive, etc. It obviously ran extremely rich still because the ECU had no idea what temp the engine was at. 
 
I have ordered a new ECT sensor which ill have tomorrow morning and hopefully have the car running good tomorrow. 
 
This sensor failing over time, might be the reason I have never really gotten the ISC valve working with the EL computer on my conversion. It may also explain why more recently ive had an issue with the EL computer making the engine run super rich, have no power and not being able to idle, when it had been running for about 20-30 minutes. possibly because the failing sensor would start giving a false reading at a certain temperature making the EL ECU freak out. then once it was passed that temp range, come good again...
 
Are EL and XF ECT sensors different? as in different resistance, therefore the computers looking for different resistance to make an accurate reading? Maybe the EL ECU is what killed my sensor if it is in fact looking for a different resistance? 
 
I will post here if the car is running properly again with the new sensor tomorrow.  

What's the condition of your loom? 35 years old, changing this and that, you might have a broken wire. Maybe break out the multi-meter and check for continuity on each and every wire involved in engine management. From one end to the other of each wire, make sure it's a dead short.

Well, if you've got a Haltech Elite on standby to run the new crossy (and turbo I think I've read), no point in getting a Quarterhorse.
 
I suppose if I were you I'd be getting out the multimeter and breaking into every sensor output signal and making sure the output voltage/resistance/whatever, is to be expected at cold start. If the signal is wrong, investigate further.
 
I approach troubleshooting like a lawyer approaches a person on the stand. Never ask a question that you don't already know the answer. Know what the sensor should output on cold start, and get the response. If you don't get the response you know you should, investigate further.

Hi chobbb,
 
I reckon which ever one you choose, you're going to have to modify the Ford mounting brackets/rubbers. Those aluminium radiators simply aren't the same shape as the old copper radiators. The copper radiators have those protruding flanges at the tank edge that the rubber mounts couple to and the flanges nestle into.
 
I would pick the radiator that is the same core dimension with the angled top inlet, then play with the mounts and fit the fan shroud.

Sure did Dean, but I got the impression there's a Barra up front, AU crossmember, BA steering column etc. I wouldn't mind seeing all that creative work too.