XCeed

Hi Spack, https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications Apparently some XE 4.1L diff centres were 3.23:1, according to this website. You'll have to go looking for a needle in a haystack I imagine.

Hi XES, I don't know about the difference in power consumption of the two boxes, but I know you'll need a new shifter. BW40 shifter linkage is on the driver's side, C4 on the passenger side. Trans cooler lines will be different. Pretty sure you don't have to change the cross-member and tailshaft (keeping the 250).

I'm thinking repro, can't see the little number 2 on the underside of the cap. Look good though. I saw those rattle can resto caps on Ebay , they are trashed. Here is where I'm at. Three of each and a headless chook. Can you see my dilemma? Which set do I complete? I'm thinking cap 2 with the smooth top. I came across this on the Grand Tourer website: It's more clear on their website, but the bottom right cartoon image appears to depict the machine marks, which is for XA. When you look at Ford promo photos of XCs, they're not close-up enough to see the machine marks, but they don't look like the third style I posted a picture of. So I think I'll keep looking for a No. 2 style cap to complete the set. Thanks for your input Gents, much appreciated.

Hi All, I'm trying to determine what style centre caps were fitted to an XC GS Falcon. There are a few different styles. XCs had the satin (I think) black paint finish, but there are some subtle differences over the years. Ignoring the deteriorated chrome finish for the aftermarket, Exhibit 1: This cap has the machined face. Now notice the No. 1 stamped on the back. Now consider exhibit 2, the smooth finish cap (ignore the rust bubbles): On the back of the cap, No. 2: And then there is this style of cap: The centrepiece is very different to the previous two. Based on experience, who can remember what's what here? I believe these are all related to XA/XB/XC only. My understanding is that XA/XB caps were painted Argent Silver the same as the 12 slots, no stainless trim rings. XCs had the satin black centre caps and stainless trim rings on Argent Silver 12 slots. But what style caps were used on the XC is my question? Any info will be much appreciated.

Well you learn something new every day. They are the same. Well what about one of these: Heaps of leg room underneath

Would an XC GS/GXL steering wheel do the trick. As you can see, they are not round. The bottom half has a smaller radius allowing for more leg space. The price people are asking might be cheaper/ less hassle than modifying your seats or buying new ones. This is on Marketplace in Adelaide for $550.

Hi WyldeXE, In the absence of other comments, I'm going to go out on a limb here, just to try and attract some attention to your question. I think we all want to see this XE on the road with a thumping Clevo under the bonnet. I'm no expert on this, but I think you need to get a flex plate that suits the size of the bell housing attached to the C4. I believe there are differences in the bellhousing (Windsor to Cleveland) to accommodate different diameter converters. Also check the balance required and the PCD of the holes drilled to suit the 3000 converter you intend to run. 11.4" PCD attaches to a 164 tooth flex plate, 10.5" to a 157 tooth. Perhaps if you post some more information, another Forum member will respond with the exact info you need. There's plenty of interest in your build, so maybe ask a Moderator to shift this post into your project thread.

My Ford XF repair manual states specifically how to install the inner seal, the spacer and the circlip. Then it says install the dust cover seal with no instruction on its' orientation. Hence the expedition to the carport with the trolley jack etc. etc. How did you go with re-assembly Fat? Do you have some of these special tools that are referred to?

Hi MrFathead, This is on my things to do list for my XF but haven't got around to it. Your first photo is correct with the seal lips pushing first into the housing. As Gerg says, internal oil pressure will push the seal lips against the shaft and housing for a tight seal. Next goes the backing ring with the curved side against the seal and the flat side against the circlip. Not knowing the correct orientation of the dust cover prompted me to get under my XF, brush away the cobwebs and have a look. It seems to me the flat side goes in against the circlip for the seal to clear the splines. I found this on Youtube posted one year ago, a HQ coupe with a professionally rebuilt Kirby Bishop power steering box: According to this, the orientation of the dust cover in your last photo seems correct. That's how it sits in my housing, the same as Gerg's last photo.

I'm curious to know what brings about the need for different spacers with what appears to be the same brackets, when mounting the alternator. There is this kit with a straight spacer: Or there is this set up on what appears to be a factory original, with the offset spacer: Does it depend on the alternator casing? Appreciate any wisdom, thanks.

Bump. Recently, I've developed a huge interest in Cleveland air cleaners and decided to threadmine this post. Please forgive me, but I need a snorkel for my air cleaner bowl. There are some subtle differences which I've discovered during my quest to acquire a snorkel, so I thought I would add some relevant content to this thread. Let's start with an XB Stromberg 2V air cleaner: Notice how the snorkel protrudes into the bowl a 1/2" or so. The air has to make a sharp turn around the end of the snorkel duct. Also note, there are two holes punched in the side of the bowl, one for the PCV filter and the other (not shown) for the 1/2" vacuum hose to the charcoal canister. Next is an exterior view. Notice how the mounting flange of the snorkel is on the outside of the snorkel duct. Absolutely fascinating, I'm sure you agree. At some point, there is a change with the snorkel. Look closely at the next photo. It's not crystal clear but there are two ports off the passenger side of the bowl for PCV and charcoal canister functions. However, the mounting flange of the snorkel is different. Maybe it's a bitsa air cleaner, who knows? Even with my poor eyesight I can see that the end of the snorkel duct is flared slightly to receive the mounting flange internally. The design of the mounting flange is changed to be bell-mouthed, presumably to assist better airflow into the bowl. Finally, Ford changed the charcoal canister about the release time of the XC Update, May '78, so I've read. I would really appreciate it if someone in the industry at the time has knowledge of this and can comment. The new charcoal canister had a much smaller diameter vacuum hose connection which was connected to the new fourth vacuum port on the front of the base plate of the Thermoquad, not the side of the air cleaner bowl. So there is now only one hole punched in the side of the bowl. I was launching into a debate about Thermoquad model numbers relating to these air cleaners and charcoal canisters as a package, but that would have been a cure for insomnia so I deleted it all. I hope this is of interest to someone restoring a classic Aussie Ford.

Free.51, you are an Officer and a Gentleman. Thanks very much.

$$$? I've got no idea. Pavtek website, $18,550 for a 393 Cleveland long motor 485HP off the shelf. Turbo build, how much of the fabrication work can you do yourself? My understanding is that there are no Crossflow kits available off the shelf. Custom turbo exhaust manifold, custom everything! You'll have to pay megabucks to get everything fabricated, maybe block machined to suit an EF Falcon crankshaft, conrods, pistons, dyno tuning, etc, etc. Everything I've read about Crossflows on this forum is that Crossys are not not designed for huge power, but you can build them into a torque monster with boost, keeping revs down below 5500. Isn't there an old rule of thumb, if you want 1HP or more per cubic inch of displacement, you have to start spending lots of money. I suspect it would be cheaper to buy a built 351 Cleveland off the shelf to achieve 400HP than build a blown Crossflow.

Hi Fknclevo, If you decide to go with the Crossflow, read up on Slydog's XF Ute build thread in Projects/Extreme Builds section. This is my favourite post of his in the thread:

I wouldn't say any old school style will fit, but check out Pacemaker ph4030, tuned length. No good with power steering, but will fit 302W. Or PH4020, tri-Y, ok with power steering. I'm sure you'll find something off the shelf.

This set might take your fancy Victor. https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-ford-200-conrods-cp-forged-pistons-suit-250-x-flow-block

Mega-HP capable BW40 from my XF. This is why I had to pull it down, burst seal and shattered diaphragm spring. I've got a T5 buried in my shed somewhere, now I want to know if it's a world class, ratios, etc.

What's the condition of your loom? 35 years old, changing this and that, you might have a broken wire. Maybe break out the multi-meter and check for continuity on each and every wire involved in engine management. From one end to the other of each wire, make sure it's a dead short.

Well, if you've got a Haltech Elite on standby to run the new crossy (and turbo I think I've read), no point in getting a Quarterhorse. I suppose if I were you I'd be getting out the multimeter and breaking into every sensor output signal and making sure the output voltage/resistance/whatever, is to be expected at cold start. If the signal is wrong, investigate further. I approach troubleshooting like a lawyer approaches a person on the stand. Never ask a question that you don't already know the answer. Know what the sensor should output on cold start, and get the response. If you don't get the response you know you should, investigate further.

Hi Panko, Do you have a way to log the data from your sensors, like a Moates Quarterhorse can do? They're pricey at around AUD $500 but it will plug into both your XF EEC IV and EL EEC V. Hook it up to a laptop and (hopefully after forking out $500) find out what's going on. Then tune the crossy to your liking.

Hi chobbb, I reckon which ever one you choose, you're going to have to modify the Ford mounting brackets/rubbers. Those aluminium radiators simply aren't the same shape as the old copper radiators. The copper radiators have those protruding flanges at the tank edge that the rubber mounts couple to and the flanges nestle into. I would pick the radiator that is the same core dimension with the angled top inlet, then play with the mounts and fit the fan shroud.

Sure did Dean, but I got the impression there's a Barra up front, AU crossmember, BA steering column etc. I wouldn't mind seeing all that creative work too.

Now that sounds really interesting Jdean. Great work, but I'm sure we'd all prefer if you post up pics of the progress thus far . How did you sort out the rear irs subframe mounts? I'll stop there, I've got too many questions.

Whoops, or this, just the rear IRS bushes. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPER-PRO-Full-Rear-Suspension-Bush-Kit-suits-AU-Falcon-Models-with-IRS-SUPERPRO-/333270443238

I believe SuperPro offer a full bushing rebuild kit for the AU IRS. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/F-R-Superpro-Suspension-Bush-Kit-for-FORD-FALCON-AU-Series-I-II-III-IRS-98-02-/132514895354 Dream BIG Jack, that's what put us on the moon.