Valvebouncer

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

Yet truck bottom end with the mustang heads fitted here.

Do you have the fg gt with the Miami?
 
I have researched a bit more and measured the bay, the coyote will drop in very snuggly with the factory shorty headers. Looked like custom headers if long 4 into 1 are desired.

There is a PDF at the bottom of the link with engine dimensions.
No matter what v8 I think once you put good flowing pipes on it it will be tight thanks to the towers. I'm sure we all have very fond memories of trying to get the back drivers side exhaust bolts in on a Cleveland with extractors! Lol!

There is a PDF at the bottom of the link with engine dimensions.
No matter what v8 I think once you put good flowing pipes on it it will be tight thanks to the towers. I'm sure we all have very fond memories of trying to get the back drivers side exhaust bolts in on a Cleveland with extractors! Lol!

There is a PDF at the bottom of the link with engine dimensions.
No matter what v8 I think once you put good flowing pipes on it it will be tight thanks to the towers. I'm sure we all have very fond memories of trying to get the back drivers side exhaust bolts in on a Cleveland with extractors! Lol!

That's for all your info guys!
The resomat definitely sounds good and I'll be taking the advice and putting underfelt in too.

Started some work on my te s pack. Plan is to do some upgrades to the engine, change to a 5 speed from the auto, not a huge fan of manuals but I want to keep it original in appearance. Fit the 28 spline diff I built, change the steer rack to a manual one. Paint the car and basically try and make it as close to looking standard as possible, oh and retrim the seats.
Some pictures of how it looks now.






 
And how I want it to look, will be fitting nougths and crosses wheels to clear the brakes .

 
Console I put together for it.
.
The s pack material I picked up.

I have most of the parts I need to put it together, thinking I'll stretch the rear tubs as well.
I'll throw up more pictures as I go.

Somthing ive seen a few times is the master cylinder kills the seal cause its never bween pushed very far down when you undo the bleed valves and push it to the floor it kills the seal, that i think will be your issue. The bore of the master gets shit and corodes you push the piston into all that and the seal dies a painfull death, screaming all the way to the bottom  

I'd be interested to read your findings, be them pluses or minuses!

The ecu tend to retard timing as the engine warms up. From memory XR6 have a higher release pressure on their fuel pressure therefore bumping up the rail pressure. Oxygen sensor is only a minor trimming device of fuel delivery the difference isn't really worth the effort. Best go is the coolant temp sensor, you will have to do something about the oxygen sensor though, it will unsuccessfully try to lean out the mixture causing it to log a fault code. Could you plug in an oxygen sensor that isn't screwed into the exhaust?

This sort of weird shit starts happening with bad earth connections. Did you stuff around with any earths? Some modules have their own earth direct to the body via a small bolt.

This will be why you couldn't get it to work before you over rid the smartlock.... There was always a short on the cuircut, which either blew it, or stopped it from working.
The interior light and door switches (courtesy light) is an integral part of the smartlock system. When you bypassed the smartlock, you unlocked the motor for starting , but you didn't solve the wiring problem.
+1 for a short.
 
Jack.

Note : Dont use Silastic to fix the windscreen. It contains Acetic acid, which will cause "fog" on the glass. Use the corrct Black Mastic stuff, should stay tacky for about 125 years.........and cannot be removed from the skin.   :D  

BA bulge in my xf bonnet...
 

 
My XF before any scoop...
 

 
Reverse cowl,ready to kick some ass @ Winton...
 

C2 Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl. (D,C2A are the same)

 
Note how the chamber shaping goes all the way to the head gasket face.
 
C1(C1A) Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl and reduced sharp point where exhaust and inlet meet.
 

 
Similar to C2 but note how the chamber shaping stops short of the head gasket face.
 
I believe that these heads have the best inlet flow potential and best initial chamber shape. With additional shaping on the opposite side to raised inlet swirl area and a bigger valve I reckon low lift flow figures would go through the roof. Cam and I are playing with this idea on my new speedway head.
 
I'll get an E1 snap and then an unmarked head and we have pretty much got them all covered.

Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600

Nah mate like John Holmes in Speedo's hanging out the top..