XDPSI

Got a Sunbury in mine (302 Clevo), a diaphragm conversion from the long finger type. Going great and never smelt anything nasty even when backing a trailer in the driveway and slipping the piss out if it. Never slips under load, very smooth and pedal is light.

Just came across this post from a while back... I ended up going a cushion button from sunbury brake n clutch. Bolted straight up and has handled every bit of punishment I've thrown at it. I was actually surprised for the price. Around $400 from memory and the clutch feel with a cable setup is surprisingly fine. Very streetable, I just get off the clutch ASAP to not slip it and wear it out quicker. I'm running a close ratio toploader also and the 1st gear is ridiculously tall. So a wide ratio toploader 31 spline setup will be the future box. I really can't knock the clutch at all. Been in the car with my verticle gate hurst shifter from day dot and it's perfect. Maybe once I get some descent rubber under it things may change but on the street it's spot on. Car made 243rwkw also.

Just came across this post from a while back... I ended up going a cushion button from sunbury brake n clutch. Bolted straight up and has handled every bit of punishment I've thrown at it. I was actually surprised for the price. Around $400 from memory and the clutch feel with a cable setup is surprisingly fine. Very streetable, I just get off the clutch ASAP to not slip it and wear it out quicker. I'm running a close ratio toploader also and the 1st gear is ridiculously tall. So a wide ratio toploader 31 spline setup will be the future box. I really can't knock the clutch at all. Been in the car with my verticle gate hurst shifter from day dot and it's perfect. Maybe once I get some descent rubber under it things may change but on the street it's spot on. Car made 243rwkw also.

Just came across this post from a while back... I ended up going a cushion button from sunbury brake n clutch. Bolted straight up and has handled every bit of punishment I've thrown at it. I was actually surprised for the price. Around $400 from memory and the clutch feel with a cable setup is surprisingly fine. Very streetable, I just get off the clutch ASAP to not slip it and wear it out quicker. I'm running a close ratio toploader also and the 1st gear is ridiculously tall. So a wide ratio toploader 31 spline setup will be the future box. I really can't knock the clutch at all. Been in the car with my verticle gate hurst shifter from day dot and it's perfect. Maybe once I get some descent rubber under it things may change but on the street it's spot on. Car made 243rwkw also.

Also here is the ride height photo requested by OP. Newest one and an older one with different wheels. Too lazy to go out and get fresh piccys.



 
Remembering my bumpstop to ride height relationship is different to stock as i have carried out the UCA drop, see here.
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/325-diy-uca-shelby-drop-journal-xd-xe-xf/

I have published a lot of info about this around the joint. Didn't see this tread last time it was in circulation or i may have contributed.

My car does not look that low, but ive been told it's because im running 17's (small tire) however i have had to enlarge the transmission tunnel to clear the tailshaft.

I recommend to check your ballpoint angel yourself. If your going to this trouble anyway it's only an extra few bolts each side. measure the distance from the guard directly above the bumpstop, to the bumpstop. so you know where it usually sits. Then remove the bumpstop and spring guard assy and remove the shock and spring. Then wheel/stubaxel/uca&lca up until the upper ball-joint binds and measure again. Add 20mm to this and this is the MINIMUM measurement for your bumpstop. but it off to this. If you want to go further you need to either purchase a modded UCA or mod the factory UCA. (upper control arm)

I live fine with about 15-20mm clearance to my bumpstops, you jsut need to make sure you have a very stiff shock.
 

For the refz.......
 
In order from left to right.
 
NOS standard
Mackay aftermarket
RareSpares aftermarket
Superpro
 

That's good to hear gerg Yeah I'm expecting a few headaches that's for sure. There is a bit of room to go forward if under the rad support is nicked out but I dunno how the weight distribution will be. Until I sit a dummy block in I won't know. First thing I'll do is copy my mates rack and pinion setup on his xl ute as I have an ea rack that I got with the car. Hopefully I can make it work. My fg motor will be backed up with a c series transmission so I'll see how the clearances are once it's all dummies up. Shortened 9inch was installed a month or so ago so that's sorted. Expecting modding manifolds or making new ones. Modded them before and it's a headache but they've been successful. Can you buy aftermarket shocker tower braces? I've pretty much got the fg-t long motor (basically brand new) brand new 3540 external gate and a wolf v5 ecu to handle the ignition side of things. Cooler side of things I have down pat from doing my turbo cars and my mates so I'll make it work one way or another. I considered going a 221 turbo once but then I got the fg motor and thought fk it, haha.

Hey guys,
 
Been a while between posts but I thought I'd finally share my results of my 10yr build. Hahaha. Finally managed to get it to the dyno a week or so ago. I promise I will do a proper build thread as I have gb's of pics over the years to upload and share. I know I loved it whilst building my cars so it's only fair! With a bit of luck the trimmings and tedious things will be complete by Xmas. That's the plan anyway! To the point now...
 
Xd fairmont
Au 140km bottom end (stock)
Gas research twin converters and twin lines to twin outlet tank
ICE ignition 7amp 2step
Converted to run xf dizzy
Stock inlet manifold (welded and modded to run tb in fuel rail location
Garrett 3540 (0.82 rear housing)
External gate tial
3 inch exhaust
Top mount manifold (thanks Milan!)
Killer dump pipe (thanks Wes!)
Hybrid 3inch cooler
Stock AU cam
Atomic vernier gears
Cushion button clutch (sunbury brake n clutch)
Top loader with hurst verticle gate shifter (stoopid fun on the street)
Custom t-shaft (rated at 800hp from memory)
28 spline bw 3.45lsd
Turbo smart return flow bov
 
Result: 242rwkw @11psi
 
Doing atomic valve springs and arp stud kit shorty pretty much built the car with more power to come later once I sort out the rest of the car how I like it. Build a short motor properly and drop it in. All the supporting hardware is there. Just cable tie the actuator vac feed and hold on Hahaha.
 
Would be sweet to make a thread just outlining chassis/driveline/boost/power
Hint hint forum junkies! I'm way to lazy and unreliable.
 
Cheers,
Mike

Sounds awesome mate, a DOHC XP would be a pretty challenging conversion on many fronts as I think some firewall, tunnel and engine bay surgery will definitely be on the cards. Bonnet clearance may also be an issue.
For the NA setup I don't think the BBM will clear the shock tower or strut brace for that matter (unless you're removing them and making new ones). You might have to make a custom intake manifold or cut & shut an ea-ed log manifold.
They have seriously tight engine bays, I've dropped a crossflow into my XP ute on custom mounts/crossmember even that will be tight once I squeeze in everything (turbo, manifold, dump pipe, radiator etc).
I doubt an FG factory turbo and manifold will clear the strut tower when you eventually drop in the turbo engine. Intercooling will be a challenge as well without hacking up the front of the car. I will be running a water to air for that reason.
 
As far as the ecu goes as Gerg said a J3 chip should sort the bcm issue out. The only disadvantage is not being able to run the VCT with the AU ecu.
 
For the turbo motor ecu Nizpro are gurus on Falcon (Visteon?) ECUs, they used it to run a turbo Nissan VH45 V8 in a ski boat of all things, they even rate it above Motec. Or you could use an aftermarket ECU capable of running VCT and fly by wire throttle.
 
Once you sort all of that out, engineering will be a hurdle. In the national guidelines for vehicle mods a 4 litre turbo isn't compliant in a car that light, which is why I'm doing a turbo 200 crossflow.
 
Very interested to see how you do it, good luck!

J3 chip eliminates the BCM problem, covered here in other threads. Eliminates the smartlock crap too, which is an issue with key coding, etc. Look forward to the result when you're done

Hey guys,
 
Been a while between posts but I thought I'd finally share my results of my 10yr build. Hahaha. Finally managed to get it to the dyno a week or so ago. I promise I will do a proper build thread as I have gb's of pics over the years to upload and share. I know I loved it whilst building my cars so it's only fair! With a bit of luck the trimmings and tedious things will be complete by Xmas. That's the plan anyway! To the point now...
 
Xd fairmont
Au 140km bottom end (stock)
Gas research twin converters and twin lines to twin outlet tank
ICE ignition 7amp 2step
Converted to run xf dizzy
Stock inlet manifold (welded and modded to run tb in fuel rail location
Garrett 3540 (0.82 rear housing)
External gate tial
3 inch exhaust
Top mount manifold (thanks Milan!)
Killer dump pipe (thanks Wes!)
Hybrid 3inch cooler
Stock AU cam
Atomic vernier gears
Cushion button clutch (sunbury brake n clutch)
Top loader with hurst verticle gate shifter (stoopid fun on the street)
Custom t-shaft (rated at 800hp from memory)
28 spline bw 3.45lsd
Turbo smart return flow bov
 
Result: 242rwkw @11psi
 
Doing atomic valve springs and arp stud kit shorty pretty much built the car with more power to come later once I sort out the rest of the car how I like it. Build a short motor properly and drop it in. All the supporting hardware is there. Just cable tie the actuator vac feed and hold on Hahaha.
 
Would be sweet to make a thread just outlining chassis/driveline/boost/power
Hint hint forum junkies! I'm way to lazy and unreliable.
 
Cheers,
Mike

Can't wait to see a build thread, bring on the pics!! Good power figures to. My v8 Corty has just clocked over it's 3rd year of build......I'm thinking of not getting it engineered now and just driving it with different plates. It's sooooooo frustrating.

Cool another XD hunting the street for commodore victims. 10 years is a long build.....I'm at 8 years on my XD but I'm just waiting in my alternator and then it should be go go go.

Nice project mate. cant wait to see pics and see more detail.

Hey guys,
 
Been a while between posts but I thought I'd finally share my results of my 10yr build. Hahaha. Finally managed to get it to the dyno a week or so ago. I promise I will do a proper build thread as I have gb's of pics over the years to upload and share. I know I loved it whilst building my cars so it's only fair! With a bit of luck the trimmings and tedious things will be complete by Xmas. That's the plan anyway! To the point now...
 
Xd fairmont
Au 140km bottom end (stock)
Gas research twin converters and twin lines to twin outlet tank
ICE ignition 7amp 2step
Converted to run xf dizzy
Stock inlet manifold (welded and modded to run tb in fuel rail location
Garrett 3540 (0.82 rear housing)
External gate tial
3 inch exhaust
Top mount manifold (thanks Milan!)
Killer dump pipe (thanks Wes!)
Hybrid 3inch cooler
Stock AU cam
Atomic vernier gears
Cushion button clutch (sunbury brake n clutch)
Top loader with hurst verticle gate shifter (stoopid fun on the street)
Custom t-shaft (rated at 800hp from memory)
28 spline bw 3.45lsd
Turbo smart return flow bov
 
Result: 242rwkw @11psi
 
Doing atomic valve springs and arp stud kit shorty pretty much built the car with more power to come later once I sort out the rest of the car how I like it. Build a short motor properly and drop it in. All the supporting hardware is there. Just cable tie the actuator vac feed and hold on Hahaha.
 
Would be sweet to make a thread just outlining chassis/driveline/boost/power
Hint hint forum junkies! I'm way to lazy and unreliable.
 
Cheers,
Mike

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

This is on a ute so I don't have rear doors to worry about.
 
I've been real slack with this, haven't bothered to look at it yet.

The XF booster will bolt straight in but the XD/XE master won't bolt on without reworking the shit out of the mounting holes.
So you have some options.
XF booster with reworked XD master.
XF booster with XF master and XF brake lines.
XF booster with XF master and re-worked brake lines.
Small XD booster with no other mods.
I can understand why you want to use an XF booster because they are just so clean and simple looking compared to the XD/XE booster, and It's why I used one on my XdEE when I did the 4.0 conversion 8 years ago, but unless you are prepared for all the extra pissin' around, forget it.

Shit,...I thought I was on a different website for a minute. 

Fixed!