xwroo

Each end 50mm. I did mine 75mm each end and I can run pretty much a 15x8 all the way to a 15x12 with the right BS. But I like tyre footprint and tuck over dish so prob not right guy to advise here

Cheers that was helpful

Ok thanks I'm following now.

Nah, sorry to confuse. A 10" rim with 5" backspace will have 5" dish. 1/2 the rim exposed at the back and 1/2 at the front, so it's central. If it has 4 1/2" backspace it will have 5 1/2" dish. If it has 4" backspace it will have 6" dish and so on.

Yep, sure do. You're effectively moving the centre inward or outward inside the rim. 10" with 5" backspace will give you 5" dish. Usually 1/2 and 1/2 like that with 5 at the front and 5 at the back is what most guys have on the rear of Fords. Seems to be a perfect fit.

I bet that sux! You get to be the first bloke in the world to ever accept an apology for being called a 'wankpuffin' only to find out he wasn't talking to you when he came out with the now famous, highly abusive, ridiculous ridicule. lol

Apology accepted.

Here at IolzFalcon, we have a tradition of slagging off any spammers that happen upon this otherwise righteous place. I felt it was my duty to do such, but alas, the original offending post was promptly removed by our diligent moderators, leaving my otherwise legitimate reply to these (self-fisting) goat-felchers instead looking like an unprovoked jibe at your otherwise fairly decent self xwroo. I do apologise...
 
But has been entertaining nonetheless

Haha, admin deleted them, now it looks like Greg was talking to xwroo. lol.

word of advice is buy and fit up your wheels first fit them under the car with some messurements you will know it will sit centre and you know how much to the MM what to take out of it

cortinas there diffs are made off centre from the factory its not much but every mm counts when you want big wheels

So looking at cutting around 50mm off each end yeah and leaving the spring perches as is ? I cut 75mm off each end of mine and the spring perches stayed in place and I can fit any array of wheel tyre combo under it know.
 
If your going to run any real HP thru it or race or skid it I'd recomend some Strange cut to length axles in your choosen spline count.Buy em a few inches too long then cut to length and winner winner. I'd suggest someone would want around $800 to shorten it. 

You are aware that the xd diff is wider than an xw one?

I think the limited slip disc brake diffs out of Fairmonts and Fairlanes have a 4 pinion centre and 28 spline axles.
 
* Buy the diff with the rear hand brake cable and the rubber 'body to diff' brake hose with it.
 
** Also make sure it comes with rotors, calipers etc to save any headaches.
 
*** XC onwards also have a larger wheel centre diameter so make sure your wheels have a 70mm centre (standard XW were 60mm)
 
**** Check your diff ratio, you may also need to buy the speedo drive cog to suit for your speedo to read correctly.
 
Cheers, Paul. (MNTL.XD) 

All I want is to rebuild my 302w so it's nice and fresh and reliable so I can turn the key with no dramas but have a little bit more poke then standard. I was just looking at adding carb, intake, cam and lifters, a electric drizzy (to get rid of the points) and some extractors.

The heads won't be overlooked. They will be rebuilt and ported and polished or whatever gets done to them.

Engine engineering at Rocklea bud. Cam is the man there. You can't get better service and quality imho. I use them and I'm 1700k!s away

Also keep in mind that on an early Windsor they run press in rocker studs. Once you start increasing lift & spring pressures, it won't take much to punch the press in studs out. I would invest in getting screw in studs. You will need to get the heads drilled & tapped for this.
Sounds extremes, but better than a horrible valve train failure.
A 600 vacuum secondary with a duel plain manifold will be nice on a Windsor. Keep in mind that there is no need to go too big, due to being heavily restricted by Windsor small port heads.

should wash your mouth out saying that word haha. Yea I know about them.

Plenty of options for Windsors out there, ie air gap, etc.. Almost as many as for Chevs.

Most cam manufacturers have a range that has most scenarios covered.
 
Sounds like you need something like mine, a Crow 204/214 @ 0.050", but has less lift at the valve on a Windsor than a clevo due to rocker ratio.
 
Mine idles sweet at 700, pulls easily from idle and has a midrange that for a little 302, punches above its weight in that regard. It has a pretty wide LSA and little overlap. It's about as far as you can go for lift without roller rockers ( for long term durability).
 
If you want a bit of a lopey idle, there is one at 219/224 @ 0.050" that has less lift at 0.478, same LSA but overlap is more due to longer duration.
 
http://www.crowcams.com.au/Catalogue.aspx
I'm not saying go with crow but just as a guide as to what's out there. The description next to the cam pretty much is what it is.

hey guys,
When it comes to cams I know nothing!!! Just wanting to know what would be the biggest cam I could put into my 302w without running a stall converter or having any vacuum/ braking problems. Keep in mind my car is a very mild cruiser.
Cheers for any help...

Done some work on the xw this morning and found threaded holes, one in the parcel shelf which has a thick plate underneath and one in the floor and the same on the other side would this be the seat belt holes?

I was just really wanting put one or two in, cause I got my first baby on the way and would love to take him/her driving.

Do we even want to know why you had an ambulance Jack?
 
Hahaha spider monkey.

Not required, or they would have been there. (holes in the floor, etc)
 
But, I'd retro fit some, as described. Double up on the existing bolts.