Trev Vaa

thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else.
 
i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down.
the basic engine combo was
351 cleveland bored 20 thou
650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1")
RPM Airgap Intake
2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves
Lunati 62503 cam
11.2:1 compression
6" rods
balanced bottom end
pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe
mallory ignition system
toploader
9" 3.25:1
the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno
we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try.
put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer.
 
 
next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc
we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work.
i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads.
he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber.
spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in.
chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again.
detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue.
i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug.
on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.

control arm bushes, i'll be on my second set soon.
 
quick question, would anyone be interested in quality steering componentry for these cars? i'm thinking of getting some inner and outer tie rods made up, as well as ball joints.

XC - They sound like great heads - Can't wait to get mine back and onto the bench.  I'm all but finished packing the coffin and I think it has settled enough now after the cyclone that freight should be just about back to normal.  Might get it sent off tomorrow instead of playing on my, oops my boys buggy.

I'd go hydraulic roller, we just did recently with dad's car as it shit another set of solid rollers, the just don't live on the street, this set lasted the longest though at 30,000ks

yep low lift high flow is where it's at
 
.400" 230/160
 
i'm still unsure whether i'm going to put a hyd roller or solid roller in mine, it'll be fairly mild either way... no point going big cam on these heads, alloys it definitely would.

my 2vs flow 245/200 @.600
 
i've got standard intake valves, but 1.71" exhaust valves.
 
CHI 2vs on the same bench flow 300 with some tidy up work done.

better ignition and more breathing, cam will help a lot. assuming your not floating, that turbo is way to big tbh.
GTX3576 or 3582 will see in excess of 400rwkw. with better drivability. can even go a .82 rear housing if you wanted something that spools super easy if you were going for sub 300rwkw
 
contact camtech cams, tell them what you have, get them to grind a cam to suit.
 
FYI 450cc injectors will end up being your limit, they will be close up around 80+% duty cycle now, move up to ID725/850/1000s, they'll idle like stock if your tuner knows anything, and then you're good for whatever power you want to make.
 
whats done to the bottom end?
looking at the graph something is definitely up.
 
if it's spark, put a stronger ignition system on it, depending what model haltech you have (im hoping for elite 2500 here) go individual coil setup like an LS, you can try closing the gap up, at 0.6mm gap it definitely shouldn't blow out even if you're running a single coil so long as it's decent.
 
i'll think of more in the morning, im knackered now. best of luck.

no they moved to a water based paint, they use either PPG or Dupont can't remember which.
the paint is fantastic when laid one properly, got a few mates who use it and the only product that leaves a better finish of the gun is ceramic.
 
take it back, make sure it looks perfect when you pick it up.
would not even pick the vehicle up looking like that.

nope. nope, and more nope.
no thankyou.

make it a sticky, it needs to be,
this is the very basics you need to know when setting up a car.

ahhh maybe hot tank the block and heads after seeing that.... last thing you want is a rusting block after all the work you're putting in.
love watching engines come together.

Ok - we will see what Cam says - He is my machining and all such things guru and I trust him implicitly.

Appears the previous owner of this piece of history had not heard of coolant/rust inhibitor
 

 
Never mind - got all the scale out and cleaned it all up
 

 
Crank is back in so I just need to make up a box/pallet for it and all the good bits for the trip down south. Yahoo.

Took a better picture of my inlet manifold 'de-badging'. I'm happy with the way it came up, painted Ford Blue, its going to look ace.
 

 
Finished all the oil gallery mods.
 

 
The oil pump feed to the filter port was particularly poor as was the alignment of the head drains into the block. gave them all a clean up out to gasket area and Cam has done some serious work in the heads to assist.
 
Whilst this is no race engine, I am just really particular about the oil system of any engine, especially the return to the sump path. I laid back the valley holes and increased them by half as big again. This will not effect the strength as I have seen a big comp roller cam clevo have them taken out to 1" without an issue.
 
Just have to get into the shed and give the block a good clean out and oil up. Once that is done I can wrap it up and send it down to Cam with all the goodies for machining. Getting excited now.

send it to howards and have the whole system reco'd, you won't look back after that.

thoms onto it.

Main fuseable link or the engine one

Judges XF had world senior cast iron heads, 550 hyd roller, 9.8 comp and a 650 carb.
 
Went 12.9 at 106.
 
The heads in that combo were holding it back in my opinion as there are far better flowing heads on the shelf out there.

a tune fixes all that... they go pretty well after that, most see around the 200rwkw mark.

Au3 got 70mm throttle body, minor flow work on gt40p heads, yella terra 1.7 ratio rockers.
The 220kw is the equivalant of the Crow 621339
Valve Timing
IN.16/72
EX.75/20
DUR in.268 ex.275
.050"  in.203 ex.209
List - .455" .455"
Range - 1500 5000 
 
the 200kw got a bigger cam with a lower 1.6 ratio rocker by crane cams, on the 220 the 1.7 brought the 450 up to 470ish
this is all the info ive found from the net.
and dont forget the comp ratio was upped from the 185kw motor from 9.1 to 9.4 in the 200 and 220.

They sure were 220kw engines, all 3 were out of numbers matching 220kw au's

A small update, the 302 went 11.4 down the quarter and is now having the exhaust valves changed to a different shape, also the 750 carb is being replaced with an 850 unit. I am hoping this old girl gets to bottom 11's, he hasn't run it up to full revs yet so here's hoping she gets quicker.

yep. easy as piss, just back off the engine mounts a bit so you can lift the motor a touch, i've done it without doing that, but its much harder.
 
oil pump just get a good brand standard volume, and you'll probably find your pickup is blocked a bit too.

wiring, you have either a bad earth somewhere, or its earthing somewhere it shouldn't, or a bad connection

wiring, you have either a bad earth somewhere, or its earthing somewhere it shouldn't, or a bad connection