agentkiwi

Update.
 
I started tackling this today.
Radiator sprung a small leak so I took that out & got it braised.
I thought while I'm at it & the car's off the road I'll change the top.
I also failed a warrant for a worn pitman arm ball joint so perfect time to do it.
 
Everything went well except getting the pitman off the steering coupling. Ran out of time today so tomorrow once I get that apart the box will slide straight out.
Wish I had a hoist, would be so much easier than a crawler!!
 
Machinist at work looked at the top & bearing & said the bronze bush isn't worn but agreed it's a good idea to change to bearing, he said it will be a piece of cake so that's good!
Replacing Pitman, Idler, tie rods & upper ball joints. Could be a long day!!

I finished this conversion yesterday. Overall, it's not that hard to do. It does make a difference & wont wear out the bush anymore.
 
A couple of things;
The bronze bush is 18mm deep, the bearing is 12. We machined out the bush down 14mm so that the bearing sits 2mm below the top surface. The bush wears out near this surface so that gap will reduce stress on the bearing. I press fitted the bearing after heating the top very gently. 2-3 taps with a bit of 1&1/4" round bar & a hammer to get it in.
The photos above from sparky dave illustrate this well.
 
The steering box can be a bit fiddly to get in & out. A hoist & or a helping hand would be ideal!
Make sure you cap all of the lines & holes in the box or the fluid goes everywhere including on your exhaust which smokes when hot making you shit yourself thinking the car is on fire!!
 
Pitman arm is much easier to get off with the box out of the car. Puller & a little heat, it pings off.
 
That's about it folks. I'm glad I did this & thanks for all the assistance & advice!

I finished this conversion yesterday. Overall, it's not that hard to do. It does make a difference & wont wear out the bush anymore.
 
A couple of things;
The bronze bush is 18mm deep, the bearing is 12. We machined out the bush down 14mm so that the bearing sits 2mm below the top surface. The bush wears out near this surface so that gap will reduce stress on the bearing. I press fitted the bearing after heating the top very gently. 2-3 taps with a bit of 1&1/4" round bar & a hammer to get it in.
The photos above from sparky dave illustrate this well.
 
The steering box can be a bit fiddly to get in & out. A hoist & or a helping hand would be ideal!
Make sure you cap all of the lines & holes in the box or the fluid goes everywhere including on your exhaust which smokes when hot making you shit yourself thinking the car is on fire!!
 
Pitman arm is much easier to get off with the box out of the car. Puller & a little heat, it pings off.
 
That's about it folks. I'm glad I did this & thanks for all the assistance & advice!

Fair point.
Eventually the ones who deal in crap, dangerous, inferior products are found out but usually it's too late for some of their customers which is shit & feedback is supposed to be an indicator of carachter but you're right, it isn't a magic bullet.
 
Sometimes it's our own fault that we try to save a few bucks but put ourselves & Families at risk by buying/using the cheapest whatever it is.
No-one can excuse someone for knowingly selling dangerous parts though eh and those sellers need to be seriously held accountable & dealt with.

pretty sure the crap i got off suzukisuper were 60,000km etc warranty too, he would have happily given me replacements for the broken one(same quality)
the 100% feedback doesn't mean much either as i would have given A+ feedback seeing they fit and arrived on time, you cant leave feedback after a certain amount of time. (i just had an electric antenna mast fail after only 2 weeks in the car, i hadn't got to fitting it soon enough to leave feedback... not a dangerous part though,)
 
HOWEVER: are the TRW balljoints as good as you can get? are the parts fitted to historic race cars safe at 200kmh? and what brand are they?
its hard justifying spending more than the car is worth on parts, but with how quick most of the cheap parts wear out you are better off with the good stuff especially if you run expensive tyres,(i had a balll joint wear out in 6 months/20,000km that had a 40,000km warranty and it wrecked 2 perfect tyres worth far more than the part  )
 
i would fit TRW upper and lower ball joints, inner and outter tie rods and pitman arm and idler arm unless there is some better quality.  might cost $400 odd, but should last at least twice as long.
i wonder how good the ball joints are that are fitted to hotchkiss or global west types control arms? they are a different type of joint though(pressed in)

I've got a set but haven't fitted them yet because I replaced the ball joints less than 5000km ago. They look & feel the goods, doubt they'll split like the rubber ones do. I'd say go for it.

I used that black window sealant mastic because it stays fllexible & it's the right colour

loctite 424 should be used, little tip is to also put a little bit of vacuum line inside the blister at the join that goes into both sections of rubber, glue that in and youll get a lot more strength at the join
 
http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802625912833

I reckon the roman numerals would be a date stamp of form.  TBH I have never looked for them. I only look at the casting number and sometimes the HF number - out to the shed for a look now. 
 
I'm in the process of cleaning up a chamber of each head casting made and once I have done that I will post up a pic from unmarked thru to e2 as I now have everyone ever made plus one with a chamber that I have never seen before - which I think I posted in here once before. 
 
I'm going to make a frame for them and put them on the wall of the town shed - where I am setting up my workshop - so don't hold your breath waiting, you may well expire. 

Honda did design and help Ford with the original castings and every single head was tweaked along the way to the final D head.
 
The E heads are EFI and have the biggest inlet but lowest compression the C type heads have the most comp but suffer from poor chamber design and the early HF cast heads found on XD to early XE are my favorites thanks to the big open chamber but the castings are usually softer.

A Geelong Foundry (GF) casting mark is an "F" inside a "G" which is just a modified Cleveland Foundry mark with the C changed to a G. The HF4 might be Honda Foundry, as Ford commissioned them to design them, but not sure for how long Honda made them before handing production over to Ford. Anyone shed some light on this?

Haha yep, we have a Summmer. Average high temp of ~25 but if you're going to come over then, go to the Sth Island. Down south around Marlborough sounds and Southern Alps is some of the most beautiful scenery you'll ever see. Nth Island, places like Taupo where I live are also pretty stunning. Skip the beaches as Australia has that covered much better. It's gorgeous here today. -2 again last night & we'll see a lofty high of probably 12 today. I'll host you if you do get here.
 
Thanks for your advice on the repair. While it was a bitch to do, I'm glad I did. Much happier oil pump now.
 
Next weekend I'm going to drop the tranny pan & replace the fluid & filters. I'm pretty sure it's got non type F fluid in there now.
Stay tuned, could be another learning curve coming up!

Well at least it's fixed.  good write up and some valuable info for those contemplating taking the 'easy way' out. 
 
oh and with those temps I think you well and truly fit into my advice of "unless it was in really cold condition" - jesus man that is stupid cold.  No I have never been to NZ but they tell me it is a beautiful country - wife wants to do but I think ill go in summer - you do have a summer right?

Know those feels. Tried to replace my sump in my XF a few weeks ago by just lifting motor... Nope not happening.

Far far easier to pull the engine than go through that shit, seen them end badly that way

I would not run 15-40 in a crossy unless it was in really cold conditions.  25-50W and you will maintain better oil pressure when hot.  These are old engines with bigger clearances than modern shit - that is why modern shit can run lighter oil weights. 
 
That dent in the sump will be causing the issue - I'll bet my left one on it.  Factory sump floor to pick up clearance is 3mm.  Think about that for a moment with your 15mm- 20mm dent.  That's is the scary realm. 
 
As Sly and most others will tell you I have spent an unhealthy amount of time studying the oiling system on x-flows and I play with x-flow oil pumps for fun - yes I need to get a life.  I also build race sumps for fun and although at times I get things wrong - like x flow head bolts not being torque to yield - I like to think I know the oiling systems pretty good. 
 
If it were me I would be fixing that sump in a heart beat or your low K engine will end up having a ventilation hole in it - usually around number 5 or 6, and that is not a good look.

Haha yep, we have a Summmer. Average high temp of ~25 but if you're going to come over then, go to the Sth Island. Down south around Marlborough sounds and Southern Alps is some of the most beautiful scenery you'll ever see. Nth Island, places like Taupo where I live are also pretty stunning. Skip the beaches as Australia has that covered much better. It's gorgeous here today. -2 again last night & we'll see a lofty high of probably 12 today. I'll host you if you do get here.
 
Thanks for your advice on the repair. While it was a bitch to do, I'm glad I did. Much happier oil pump now.
 
Next weekend I'm going to drop the tranny pan & replace the fluid & filters. I'm pretty sure it's got non type F fluid in there now.
Stay tuned, could be another learning curve coming up!

This might be a long winded update but pay close attention if you ever intend to tackle something like this yourself as some of my frustration will be your godsend.
I prepared fully to drop out my damaged sump and replace. I bought a new sump on trademe (ebay) from an 86 FE LTD 4.1 EFI. It turned up in good condition but I cleaned it out spotless and repainted it all set. I bought some red RTF gasket sealant and was ready to go.
I started 8am Saturday, following the manual everything went great for a while, drained the radiator, took off the shroud, removed the swaybar and rebushed, removed the through bolts, jacked up the engine, inserted the 50mm spacers, drained the oil, took out the sump bolts, dropped the sump then I hit problems.
There is no way in fiery hell that sump is coming out, not forwards not backwards not sideways. The LTD's must have a diferent crossmember or something but it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove ther sump by only lifting the engine 50mm.
After a LOT of swearing and f***ing around removing the bonnet, aircleaner, radiator and craneing the engine up another 100mm did it even look possible. Don't ask me how I got it that high without breaking something but I did and by twisting the sump sideways did I manage to get it out.
OK time for a smoke.
Next I managed to get the new sump in for a test fit.....f**k me!! The bolt holes don't line up! They do at 1 end but out by a whole hole at the other. The new sump won't work. I suppose I should have checked it against the gasket so lesson learned.
I had to panelbeat the old sump, clean it out, quick coat of black zinc spraypaint. Gasket it up, fit it.
I also had to repair the pick up as the dent in the sump pan had pushed the pickup upwards and the inlet was bent. I got that sorted and opened back up with the right tools and some patience
 
By this stage it's dark. Yep I've been here nearly 10 hours, so I downed tools & went home.
Next day got there at 9am, first look sees the half moons hanging half out the pan....F**K!!
Take it off start again, got it right this time.
Lowered the engine, put the car all back together which takes the best part of 4 hours. Strip one side of the bonnet hinge bolts in the process as well as splitting one of the tranny cooler lines near the radiator fitting. F***ing great! Retap the hinge holes, hose join a new rubber piece from the cooler to the hard lines. Get it all together, Start it up.....nothing. Loose Earth from the starter took another hour to work out.
So by 4pm Sunday I've got it running, NO LEAKS! F***ing amazing!
 
 
Drive home, have an hour long shower which still doesn't remove all of the grease and grime in my hair and everywhere else, collapse in a heap on the couch but i'm in bed by 7 and have to get up for work next day by 6.
What a relaxing weekend that was! NOT
 
The reason I needed to do this was because the pump made a rattling noise on start up due to the pickup being restricted. The oil pressure was pretty much erratic as well for the same reason.
On startup now there is no noise and the oil pressure goes straight to good and stays there so mission accomplished, no air hole near #5 or 6 for this engine for a while!
 
This weekend I've just spent washing the engine bay and underneath. Still no leaks so that's good.
In conclusion, if you have to replace your sump in the future, I highly recommend you remove the engine...no shit!
To just replace the gasket or the pick up or oil pump then yeah raising the engine 50mm will work but on the 84LTD you WILL NOT get the sump out.
 
The end.

This might be a long winded update but pay close attention if you ever intend to tackle something like this yourself as some of my frustration will be your godsend.
I prepared fully to drop out my damaged sump and replace. I bought a new sump on trademe (ebay) from an 86 FE LTD 4.1 EFI. It turned up in good condition but I cleaned it out spotless and repainted it all set. I bought some red RTF gasket sealant and was ready to go.
I started 8am Saturday, following the manual everything went great for a while, drained the radiator, took off the shroud, removed the swaybar and rebushed, removed the through bolts, jacked up the engine, inserted the 50mm spacers, drained the oil, took out the sump bolts, dropped the sump then I hit problems.
There is no way in fiery hell that sump is coming out, not forwards not backwards not sideways. The LTD's must have a diferent crossmember or something but it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove ther sump by only lifting the engine 50mm.
After a LOT of swearing and f***ing around removing the bonnet, aircleaner, radiator and craneing the engine up another 100mm did it even look possible. Don't ask me how I got it that high without breaking something but I did and by twisting the sump sideways did I manage to get it out.
OK time for a smoke.
Next I managed to get the new sump in for a test fit.....f**k me!! The bolt holes don't line up! They do at 1 end but out by a whole hole at the other. The new sump won't work. I suppose I should have checked it against the gasket so lesson learned.
I had to panelbeat the old sump, clean it out, quick coat of black zinc spraypaint. Gasket it up, fit it.
I also had to repair the pick up as the dent in the sump pan had pushed the pickup upwards and the inlet was bent. I got that sorted and opened back up with the right tools and some patience
 
By this stage it's dark. Yep I've been here nearly 10 hours, so I downed tools & went home.
Next day got there at 9am, first look sees the half moons hanging half out the pan....F**K!!
Take it off start again, got it right this time.
Lowered the engine, put the car all back together which takes the best part of 4 hours. Strip one side of the bonnet hinge bolts in the process as well as splitting one of the tranny cooler lines near the radiator fitting. F***ing great! Retap the hinge holes, hose join a new rubber piece from the cooler to the hard lines. Get it all together, Start it up.....nothing. Loose Earth from the starter took another hour to work out.
So by 4pm Sunday I've got it running, NO LEAKS! F***ing amazing!
 
 
Drive home, have an hour long shower which still doesn't remove all of the grease and grime in my hair and everywhere else, collapse in a heap on the couch but i'm in bed by 7 and have to get up for work next day by 6.
What a relaxing weekend that was! NOT
 
The reason I needed to do this was because the pump made a rattling noise on start up due to the pickup being restricted. The oil pressure was pretty much erratic as well for the same reason.
On startup now there is no noise and the oil pressure goes straight to good and stays there so mission accomplished, no air hole near #5 or 6 for this engine for a while!
 
This weekend I've just spent washing the engine bay and underneath. Still no leaks so that's good.
In conclusion, if you have to replace your sump in the future, I highly recommend you remove the engine...no shit!
To just replace the gasket or the pick up or oil pump then yeah raising the engine 50mm will work but on the 84LTD you WILL NOT get the sump out.
 
The end.

This might be a long winded update but pay close attention if you ever intend to tackle something like this yourself as some of my frustration will be your godsend.
I prepared fully to drop out my damaged sump and replace. I bought a new sump on trademe (ebay) from an 86 FE LTD 4.1 EFI. It turned up in good condition but I cleaned it out spotless and repainted it all set. I bought some red RTF gasket sealant and was ready to go.
I started 8am Saturday, following the manual everything went great for a while, drained the radiator, took off the shroud, removed the swaybar and rebushed, removed the through bolts, jacked up the engine, inserted the 50mm spacers, drained the oil, took out the sump bolts, dropped the sump then I hit problems.
There is no way in fiery hell that sump is coming out, not forwards not backwards not sideways. The LTD's must have a diferent crossmember or something but it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove ther sump by only lifting the engine 50mm.
After a LOT of swearing and f***ing around removing the bonnet, aircleaner, radiator and craneing the engine up another 100mm did it even look possible. Don't ask me how I got it that high without breaking something but I did and by twisting the sump sideways did I manage to get it out.
OK time for a smoke.
Next I managed to get the new sump in for a test fit.....f**k me!! The bolt holes don't line up! They do at 1 end but out by a whole hole at the other. The new sump won't work. I suppose I should have checked it against the gasket so lesson learned.
I had to panelbeat the old sump, clean it out, quick coat of black zinc spraypaint. Gasket it up, fit it.
I also had to repair the pick up as the dent in the sump pan had pushed the pickup upwards and the inlet was bent. I got that sorted and opened back up with the right tools and some patience
 
By this stage it's dark. Yep I've been here nearly 10 hours, so I downed tools & went home.
Next day got there at 9am, first look sees the half moons hanging half out the pan....F**K!!
Take it off start again, got it right this time.
Lowered the engine, put the car all back together which takes the best part of 4 hours. Strip one side of the bonnet hinge bolts in the process as well as splitting one of the tranny cooler lines near the radiator fitting. F***ing great! Retap the hinge holes, hose join a new rubber piece from the cooler to the hard lines. Get it all together, Start it up.....nothing. Loose Earth from the starter took another hour to work out.
So by 4pm Sunday I've got it running, NO LEAKS! F***ing amazing!
 
 
Drive home, have an hour long shower which still doesn't remove all of the grease and grime in my hair and everywhere else, collapse in a heap on the couch but i'm in bed by 7 and have to get up for work next day by 6.
What a relaxing weekend that was! NOT
 
The reason I needed to do this was because the pump made a rattling noise on start up due to the pickup being restricted. The oil pressure was pretty much erratic as well for the same reason.
On startup now there is no noise and the oil pressure goes straight to good and stays there so mission accomplished, no air hole near #5 or 6 for this engine for a while!
 
This weekend I've just spent washing the engine bay and underneath. Still no leaks so that's good.
In conclusion, if you have to replace your sump in the future, I highly recommend you remove the engine...no shit!
To just replace the gasket or the pick up or oil pump then yeah raising the engine 50mm will work but on the 84LTD you WILL NOT get the sump out.
 
The end.

This might be a long winded update but pay close attention if you ever intend to tackle something like this yourself as some of my frustration will be your godsend.
I prepared fully to drop out my damaged sump and replace. I bought a new sump on trademe (ebay) from an 86 FE LTD 4.1 EFI. It turned up in good condition but I cleaned it out spotless and repainted it all set. I bought some red RTF gasket sealant and was ready to go.
I started 8am Saturday, following the manual everything went great for a while, drained the radiator, took off the shroud, removed the swaybar and rebushed, removed the through bolts, jacked up the engine, inserted the 50mm spacers, drained the oil, took out the sump bolts, dropped the sump then I hit problems.
There is no way in fiery hell that sump is coming out, not forwards not backwards not sideways. The LTD's must have a diferent crossmember or something but it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove ther sump by only lifting the engine 50mm.
After a LOT of swearing and f***ing around removing the bonnet, aircleaner, radiator and craneing the engine up another 100mm did it even look possible. Don't ask me how I got it that high without breaking something but I did and by twisting the sump sideways did I manage to get it out.
OK time for a smoke.
Next I managed to get the new sump in for a test fit.....f**k me!! The bolt holes don't line up! They do at 1 end but out by a whole hole at the other. The new sump won't work. I suppose I should have checked it against the gasket so lesson learned.
I had to panelbeat the old sump, clean it out, quick coat of black zinc spraypaint. Gasket it up, fit it.
I also had to repair the pick up as the dent in the sump pan had pushed the pickup upwards and the inlet was bent. I got that sorted and opened back up with the right tools and some patience
 
By this stage it's dark. Yep I've been here nearly 10 hours, so I downed tools & went home.
Next day got there at 9am, first look sees the half moons hanging half out the pan....F**K!!
Take it off start again, got it right this time.
Lowered the engine, put the car all back together which takes the best part of 4 hours. Strip one side of the bonnet hinge bolts in the process as well as splitting one of the tranny cooler lines near the radiator fitting. F***ing great! Retap the hinge holes, hose join a new rubber piece from the cooler to the hard lines. Get it all together, Start it up.....nothing. Loose Earth from the starter took another hour to work out.
So by 4pm Sunday I've got it running, NO LEAKS! F***ing amazing!
 
 
Drive home, have an hour long shower which still doesn't remove all of the grease and grime in my hair and everywhere else, collapse in a heap on the couch but i'm in bed by 7 and have to get up for work next day by 6.
What a relaxing weekend that was! NOT
 
The reason I needed to do this was because the pump made a rattling noise on start up due to the pickup being restricted. The oil pressure was pretty much erratic as well for the same reason.
On startup now there is no noise and the oil pressure goes straight to good and stays there so mission accomplished, no air hole near #5 or 6 for this engine for a while!
 
This weekend I've just spent washing the engine bay and underneath. Still no leaks so that's good.
In conclusion, if you have to replace your sump in the future, I highly recommend you remove the engine...no shit!
To just replace the gasket or the pick up or oil pump then yeah raising the engine 50mm will work but on the 84LTD you WILL NOT get the sump out.
 
The end.

I don't think they're stainless, I could be wrong but I think they're anodized or chromed aluminium. Stainless wouldn't bend like they do. I know for a fact the rear window trim is ali.
Anyway, they're moulded with one edge that's a 'hook' and the other is the 'catch'
To install you place the hook over the top and press the bottom until the tension forces the moulded catch to mount itself.
To remove is the reverse & I found the easiest way was to use a thin wooden drift & hammer & to apply short sharp taps starting from one end until it just pops off. It's like a spring tension due to the shape & dimensions of the mold.
prying it just tends to bend things.
 
As for painting, it doesn't come with a clear coat, just black coat. I found satin black to be satisfactory.
You could clear coat it if you want but to me it's one thing that over time will discolour or chip off anyway & it's twice as much work.
 
Just my opinion

Not the best quality pics & it doesn't say what it's made of but gives you an idea of how the mold is formed to create the tension mount & where to hit it to get it off

I don't think they're stainless, I could be wrong but I think they're anodized or chromed aluminium. Stainless wouldn't bend like they do. I know for a fact the rear window trim is ali.
Anyway, they're moulded with one edge that's a 'hook' and the other is the 'catch'
To install you place the hook over the top and press the bottom until the tension forces the moulded catch to mount itself.
To remove is the reverse & I found the easiest way was to use a thin wooden drift & hammer & to apply short sharp taps starting from one end until it just pops off. It's like a spring tension due to the shape & dimensions of the mold.
prying it just tends to bend things.
 
As for painting, it doesn't come with a clear coat, just black coat. I found satin black to be satisfactory.
You could clear coat it if you want but to me it's one thing that over time will discolour or chip off anyway & it's twice as much work.
 
Just my opinion

No, but it's heaps easier. You have to take the door cards off anyway to make sure it goes right to the bottom of the channel & to pop the windows out from there is piss easy. Just push the little plastic plugs out & maneuver the window out carefully. I did it by myself but someone to hold the window while you f**k around would be even easier
 
You could actually do it with the windows in & door cards on but guaranteeing you've done a good job would be a gamble