Kiwi-E

All sound like perfectly reasonable specs to work with. And target HP is realistic. My only recommendation is to definitely run a BOV. They are there not only to protect the carby ie: blowing through the throttle blades with vac one side and (otherwise) uncontrolled boost in the other, but also to protect the turbo from compressor surge and flow reversal.... Very bad.... You can do all sorts of damage, even snap the turbo shaft.

As XPT said, you can mod a standard Holley for boost, no need to splash out on a shiny new one. I would even look at a 500 for simplicity, and will bolt on to a redline 2BBL. I don't think the flow issues with 1 and 6 ports will be there in a boosted application.

You could even use a modded Weber or EA single point manifold to do the job. Boost tends to sort out any shortcomings in manifold design.

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There's a link here for how to modify a 4 Barrel DP Holley for boost : http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

I know you don't really want to hear it, but by the time you've paid for an Aussiespeed manifold, carb, msd etc. You could have bought an E series ecu and J3 chipped it. Bosch Green 42Lb injectors, walbro 255 pump, fuel reg, xflow efi manifold & rail.

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Hi All,
I'm currently looking at building a turbo setup for a 4.1 Crossy. This is a NZ build... so there is no worries about emissions or rego like in AUS. Engine will be in a xf sedan and will be a street car that will do mostly open road driving.  To start with I am planning to run the setup on a stock long motor (except upgraded valve springs). I want to spec the setup so that in future, if i choose to build a motor then the system will support the increased power level.
 
Aim for the setup on a stock 4.1:
HP Target: 250-300HP ...... happy with more, but not sure how long it would hang together
Boost: what ever it will take before it throws a leg out. Am planning on specifying the fuel system to support up to around 12-15 PSI
 
 
Base Engine:
Stock xf 4.1 with higher rate valve springs
Will run it on a descent oil so it has a bit of a chance of hanging together.
 
 
Hot side:
Manifold: Either log type or unequal length runner. Will be getting flange profiles cut and fabricating it myself.
Turbo: Borg Warner k27-2 with internal gate welded shut (off a 5.9 Cummins Diesel)  Already have two of these as the price was right.
Waste gate: probably 38mm if this will be sufficient????? Plumbed back to atmosphere
Exhaust: Either 2.5'' or 3''
 
 
Ignition:
MSD 6AL Programmable
Dizzy:  factory est
Coil: Need recommendation... MSD something??
 
Intake side:
Inter-cooler: Whatever fits in the available space. 2.5'' piping.
BOV: Maybe? ............ If needed to keep the carb happy
Intake manifold: 4 barrel of some kind,... Aussiespeed???  Need recommendations
Carb: 650CFM Quick Fuel Technology blow through carb ..........I'm  thinking this is way excessive... any thoughts? Was initially looking for a blow through carb around 450CFM but i haven't seemed to find one that exists.... There is always the option to modify a mech sec Holley carb to suit blow through.
 
 
Fuel:
Pump: Cater inline pump, 50 GPH at 20 PSI ............................. I think this should be a sufficient flow rate?
Fuel pressure regulator: Adjustable rising rate 1:1 bypass reg. 2-22PSI base pressure adjustment.
Fuel:  100 octane (is now commonly available at the pumps in my area)
Fuel lines: Will use existing steel feed line for return to tank and make another hard line for feed to engine bay.
 
Drive line:
Gearbox: Either t5 or borg warner 4 speed single rail, (more likely the single rail as it should stand a bit more abuse before going pop.)
Clutch: Need advice here.
Diff: LSD or Cigweld, 2.77 or 2.92 ratio. Will only go to a shorter ratio if using a box with overdrive
Tyres: 245/50/14 eagers ( Around 7% smaller in diameter than factory  sizes)
 
Gauges:
AEM wideband
oil pressure
oil temp
boost
 
This is an initial throw together of components. It would be good to hear from some of you experienced fellas if I'm on the right track or if I'm way off with some of my selections. There is probably things I've overlooked too. All input welcome.
Please give it a chance before everyone gets on the '' carbs are dumb, go EFI'' bandwagon 😁
Cheers
Tom
 

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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no dont think so,probly six fifty smallest

Done the Shelby drop:

Some like to go 1/8" to the rear on the new holes for added caster and to allow for the slight upward angle of the originals which if you projected 1" perpendicular (as I have) , would actually put the arm slightly forward from the original mount point. Oh well, in the whole scheme of things, I don't think it really makes much difference. If I have to, I'll shim out the front mount bolt so the arm tilts back a bit, pushes the upper ball joint back and gets some caster that way. Only way to know is to drive it.

Template:



Wider shot:



Arm in:



Notes:

The steel in this area is very tough and is double-skinned. The trick here, especially with the 1/2" bit, is to slow the drill right down and to use plenty of lube. I mean drown it in WD or similar. Use a nice sharp bit, and if it's cutting well, it should be peeling off nice curly bits of swarf. If it's chipping, you don't have enough bite and /or not pressing hard enough, and will possibly burn out. This is bad in this area because if you work-harden the bit you're drilling, you're in a world of shit. It gets very bitey toward the end of the drilling so brace yourself if you're using a drill with some balls.

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Correct. I sent a 2.5mm drill right through, at an angle so the grease comes out closer towards the halfway point. Then drilled a shallow 5mm hole in the outer sleeve to take the 6mm tap. I greased all 4 bushes to ensure that grease comes out from between the inner sleeve and the bush, and it does.

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225 on the 8" wouuld barely look streched aslong as it wasn't a really low profile.
 
With my 235's i probably could have got away with just 'trimming' the wide parts off the lip (where its like 10mm wide), leaving the lip maybe 5-6mm wide. I think this might have given just enough clearance.
 
Although not ideal, you could trim it and hopefully not cook the new paint, as opposed to folding it up and splitting the new paint.
 
Decisions decisions.........
 
 
Ps, just get another 3 challanger rims to suit
 
 
 
 
 

I havent run a 16x8 but i can give this comparison for what its worth.... I see you don't want to tap the lip up since you just painted it

I've got 17x8s with 235/40/17 tyres on the front of the xe. Pretty sure theyre 0 offset. They rubed on the lip on the gard just enough to slice one tyre a bit. (Running 1deg neg camber)
Ended up hammering up the lip (not flared) and now theres enough room when the tyre tucks in the gard. Doesn't rub anymore. Could probably fit a 245/40 tyre without rubbing easily enough.

The xf has 14x8" on the front with 245/50/tyres. Note sure on offset, mabye 0 or slightly negative. The gards have had the lips hammered up on it. At a guess, these tyres might tuck an inch before they rubed due to the bulging sidewall. To get that low you'd need modified bump stops and probably uca, would be pretty slammed lol



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The early tops have a bronze bush, pressed into the alloy top.
And the later tops, had a torrington race roller bearing.

Cheers Dean. I've got one box that binds quite badly and one supposedly good box but it has a fair bit of play.
I might strip the binding box down or have a crack at adjusting it before touching the 'good' box

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do a burnout? if it cant do one, its a 200... i would pull a spark plug out and wind the motor over by hand with a ziptie in the spark plug hole(or a straw or similar) measure the stroke.. that would be the best way i know of.. (i don't know the stroke of either but it wont be hard to find out if there isn't another way)

i was wondering what you were going on about lol i will post it later

Sorry probably should have been more clear, was after the distance beween the two red crosses. (Distance between center of pin to center of shaft)
Thanks

I plan on being a tight arse and modyfing the 'cable clutch pedal' to suit the hydraulic setup instead of buying the kit.

That Measurement gives you the ratio you need so that the master cylinder piston travels the corect displacement in relation to the clutch pedal possition.




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Good write up.

Any chance you could post up the distance on the hydraulic brake pedal from the center of the pin to the center of the hole where it pivots?

Would be handy to know for those who want to modify their own pedal.

Thanks

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ok 1 hyd pedal box ready to use

"On todays episode of Australian Cortina ...."
Bought some 3.5" mild steel exhaust pipe and a 90 mandrel bend. The bend wasn't tight enough for what I needed so had to make it all in pie cuts. Tig welded the lot and it turned out pretty good. Smoothed the welds off.
Got some smaller 90 bends for the wastegate pipes out of the turbo manifold and into the dump pipe. The Tial Wastegate came with the V Band clamps which was good. Worked out where to position it and welded the pipes in. 
I'm gonna make a screamer pipe for it later so I can block off the dump pipe outlet and turn the wastegate and the screamer pipe will run down the side and into the trench I made before.







Next up, mount the radiator.

Not sure if I'd risk dumping money into the borgwarner to be honnest.
I didn't have a very good run with my bw35 behind a stock crossflow after a rebuild. Ended up needing a new band put in it after 6000ks.
.......Although it's been driven a lot harder since then and has held up so far for another 20,000ks

Do the bw51 use the same bands and clutch pack setup as the bw35?

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My and my son have started a video series on Tough Garage
This is episode 4. Check out our others in series.

Real tidy work mate.
 
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Well today went well. i finished everything i needed to get it driving again. 
all the brakes are in and working...the brakes are awesome in it haha, and they haven't even bed in yet obviously. 


 
now, before i took this photo, i ran into some trouble...
 

 
chop chop 
 

 
 
clearance issues. 
 

 
so i lowered the car, and even with the 13s on, it was grabbing the front corner of the guard. silly design. when Ford released the Lotus Twin Cam Escort, they actually trimmed that corner off. so i had to do some massaging
 
vvv this is the final result of my home attempt of massaging the guard. Ill get them all rolled properly when its registered, especially if i want to fit the 15s on. I've also discovered that the 13s are actually 24mm oversized diameter, compared to the factory 12" tyre size. so that wouldn't be helping with clearance. 
 

 
anyway, once i got that sorted i put it back in the garage on stands, hooked up the last of the brake hoses and and bled the brakes, then corrected the front end alignment so i could at least drive it (its going in for a front and rear end alignment tomorrow morning) 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Take the dizzy cap off and have someone crank it over to see if the dizzy is spinning with the engine turning, if it's not you'll have to replace the oil pump shaft as the gears have been eaten away. Common problem when they've had an aftermarket dizzy fitted as they use a hardened gear as opposed to a factory one

I have an old EL falcoon  with a dead fuel pump so every time i want to move it (just so i can mow the grass around it) i spray that cheap as 
export degreaser  straight down the throttle body whilst i sit in the engine bay and my wife drives it. 
Whilst doing this the engine revs up like it would normally so am able to select gear and move it.
 
Anyway....
 
I was thinking,,,, if you did this to and found you could rev the car up that would almost determin that the fuel pressure reg
is not working???
Im sure there is a simpler method of testing the fuel pressure reg but im just thinking out loud here. 

Wouldn't be silly to take the spring out and undo the sway bar on one side and jack the suspension up until it hits the bump stop to make sure the top ball joint isn't binding beforehand.
 
With my bumps removed it felt like the upper balljoint bound when the uca was about 10mm from the bump stop plate. So i ended up only trimming 10mm of my bump stops to be on the safe side. You might get away with how you have it but it would be reassuring to check.
 
My xe sits 20mm off the bumps in the front which is alright if your roads are not too rough.

Here ya go bear, this what you had in mind?