macman 774 Posted February 5, 2018 Is there any way to identify if a crossflow motor is a 200ci or 250ci form the outside? My XD has had an engine swap at some stage, unsure what it's from but is there any way to tell if it's a 3.3 from casting number or engine number or measuring block height? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted February 5, 2018 do a burnout? if it cant do one, its a 200... i would pull a spark plug out and wind the motor over by hand with a ziptie in the spark plug hole(or a straw or similar) measure the stroke.. that would be the best way i know of.. (i don't know the stroke of either but it wont be hard to find out if there isn't another way) 4 ESPSIX, macman, Kiwi-E and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ESPSIX 143 Posted February 5, 2018 3 minutes ago, deankdx said: do a burnout? if it cant do one, its a 200... i would pull a spark plug out and wind the motor over by hand with a ziptie in the spark plug hole(or a straw or similar) measure the stroke.. that would be the best way i know of.. (i don't know the stroke of either but it wont be hard to find out if there isn't another way) That first bit is GOLD! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 5, 2018 If it has no low-end grunt and seems to rev fine over 5000 without sounding like a piston is going to fly out and remove your pancreas, it's a 200Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk 3 deankxf, GspecZL and macman reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted February 5, 2018 2 minutes ago, ESPSIX said: That first bit is GOLD! i have had some gutless 250s, but my brothers low km XF 200 had less torque than any.. it did seem to rev forever though...(compared to any stock crossflow i had) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ESPSIX 143 Posted February 5, 2018 Had a TE Cortina with a 200 in it when I was a great deal younger, I scared myself when I put a tacho cluster in it, didn't know you could rev a straight six that hard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macman 774 Posted February 5, 2018 Hahaha thanks guys. Quite easy to lose traction taking off in 1st (it's a 4-speed and a panelvan so maybe it's light in the rear) but it runs out of puff pretty quick and it's pretty gutless compared to my old Fairmont which was a 250 auto. Engine number is in a weird spot, isn't the normal "JG2xAA" format and the block has big "X" cast into it which is all very different to my old XE too. According to the tags it should be a 250 alloy head but it's definitely an iron head so it could be anything... Would be good to know, but I think it will be retired long term anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted February 5, 2018 iron heads other than being heavy, don't have hardened valve seats for unleaded/lpg so if you are not running an additive it will burn a valve eventually anyway. they don't seem to blow head gaskets though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
macman 774 Posted February 5, 2018 It was converted to LPG back in 2008 before I owned it but it's up for testing this year and I CBF so plan on removing the LPG and going back to petrol only. Just sorting out the tank, sender and lines now. I'm tempted to stick with the iron head in the future, only because like you say I hear they don't seem to blow head gaskets like alloy heads... But I hear they're damn heavy which isn't surprising because they're a pretty big head. I need to do some serious reading on these forums about economical upgrades to a 250 crossflow for a bit more guts for everyday driving. If it turns out I've got a 200 motor, then I'd better start looking out for a running 250 at least. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted February 5, 2018 Yes, fukkin heavy......! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted February 5, 2018 You can pull the sump out without removing the engine. Drop the sway bar, take out the long engine mount bolts, and engines be fan. Lift the engine from the front with an engine crane. There is just enough room to slide the sump out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted February 5, 2018 14 minutes ago, bear351c said: Yes, fukkin heavy......! 60kg is My guess.. i thought i must have left a bolt in.. nope.. just heavy.. 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted February 5, 2018 You can pull the sump out without removing the engine. Drop the sway bar, take out the long engine mount bolts, and engines be fan. Lift the engine from the front with an engine crane. There is just enough room to slide the sump outSorry but I disagree. Tried this on my wagon when it had a dented sump. Had the sway bar links undone, engine mounts undone, fan off, couldn't get the motor high enough to remove sump for two reasons.1. Transmission didn't have anymore room to lift higher in the tunnel with how far up the motor was lifting.2. The radiator/front cross member stops the sump sliding forward enough to angle down to be removed. I will point out I did have enough room to change the oil pump with motor in place, but to actually remove the sump I had to disconnect the trans and fully lift the motor.Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted February 5, 2018 Sorry but I disagree. Tried this on my wagon when it had a dented sump. Had the sway bar links undone, engine mounts undone, fan off, couldn't get the motor high enough to remove sump for two reasons.1. Transmission didn't have anymore room to lift higher in the tunnel with how far up the motor was lifting.2. The radiator/front cross member stops the sump sliding forward enough to angle down to be removed. I will point out I did have enough room to change the oil pump with motor in place, but to actually remove the sump I had to disconnect the trans and fully lift the motor.Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkDon’t know what to say, I’ve done it multiple times in my career. 1 Slow250XC reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,266 Posted February 6, 2018 5 hours ago, Valvebouncer said: Don’t know what to say, I’ve done it multiple times in my career. pretty sure i got one out of an XD also.. its certainly a prick of an idea(easier to pull the engine i think) 1 Valvebouncer reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted February 6, 2018 Don’t know what to say, I’ve done it multiple times in my career.I could've been missing something. Or not been patient enough.I've also heard XF have smaller trans tunnels than earlier models - no idea if it's true - but if it is and stopped the motor lifting as high as other models maybe?Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebouncer 2,389 Posted February 6, 2018 I could've been missing something. Or not been patient enough.I've also heard XF have smaller trans tunnels than earlier models - no idea if it's true - but if it is and stopped the motor lifting as high as other models maybe?Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkYou need to be brutal, lift with the crane until the whole car starts to lift and even then it’s a tight wiggle to get it out. You have to swing it side to side to work it over the mains caps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted February 6, 2018 You need to be brutal, lift with the crane until the whole car starts to lift and even then it’s a tight wiggle to get it out. You have to swing it side to side to work it over the mains caps.Yeah, I was nowhere near that rough with it. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slow250XC 1,513 Posted March 18, 2018 KEEP THE IRONHEAD!!! The extra weight will keep the front wheels on the ground when you launch it. Vroom VROOM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
