jca25

I kept mine stock. Just replaced the rubber hoses with -6AN braided and hard line adaptors.

I'm considering the idea, I might look at putting something together just to see if it can be done properly hmmmm brain is going now hahaha

LOL been there done that!
 
Had the center 2 runners from 3 manifolds cut up and blocked off. 
It had a broom handle for the linkage and no tuning so it ran like shit but when it got up in the revs it went suprisingly well.
Exhaust was twin 2 1/4in out under the drivers door.
 

 
 

 

could always do something like this 
 

 
sorry photo dont show alot but it was running 3 x 2L cortina webbers had three manifolds but needed the equalizer pipes in to make a better setup mite get around to doing it one day

This is the only way to do webers...
 

 
I was going to make a custom manifold to suit 3x500 meth Holleys and the manifold was going to cost around $1600-$2000. More than the 3 carbs and more than my 50mm webers cost in the end. Really there is no cheap way out when out sourcing the work which in the end makes the pre made option the go IMO.
 
The other thing to think of is bonnet clearance.The front carb was going to be sticking out the bonnet on mine pretty well along with the 2nd carb air cleaner. Then the custom linkages and stuff.It is no where as easy or as cheap as you think. 

could always do something like this 
 

 
sorry photo dont show alot but it was running 3 x 2L cortina webbers had three manifolds but needed the equalizer pipes in to make a better setup mite get around to doing it one day

Chrome or black trim 7mm nut on end at mirror accessed inside door, these do rust and if unlucky will snap, if this happens when reattaching I driil out and arildite glue new stud in. and phillips head screw at b pillar end, take off mirror two screws on top of door frame and drill out pop rivits under bailey channel

the screen is glued in there is a wire in there if its never bn done before that you put 12v to and it heats it up make it easier to push out or you can use piano wire with to guys to cut it out 

Sparky, your right i did take this off a EL Falcon, the car is sitting under my bedroom window and been there a couple
of years and should of remembered what it was, anyway you get the idea.
 
And, your right on the money here to, id forgotten about the 'little cover on the choke knob' that comes off to reveal a
small nut that holds it in place. Perhaps i was thinking of the headlight switch knob to that has the little white button?
Anyway, thanks for the memory jog, now i look like a knob   hahahahahahahaa

My choke in the van the end of the knob was a cover and came off or is mine a diff setup but the hazzard had the white button

if there is a vac leak the pedal will be hard as to push, u may find the master cyl has die and is bypassing which is common after bleeding the brakes if its not been done before they get a build up of shit in them and when bleeding it the worst thing people do is push it all the way which picks up the shit and kills the the cups. best way to to find out is to pump the pedal up till its firm and then leave Ur foot on it and see if it slowly s goes to the floor
 
and as to the booster from i can recall they are the same been to many yrs since i play with them
also something to keep a eye out for on the plastic boosters is the case cracks on them have done a few of them 

All good jack i would of made it work 
 
Jason

Here is a bit of a rundown on the replacement of the heater core. It was done on an XD so could change slightly between models. I didn't take the photos when i pulled it apart so these are only when it was put back in.
 

All the screws around the outside need to be undone. It is also stuck together with a sicaflex type glue.
 

 
This is the inside of the heater box, there is normally an air con evaporator on the rhs but im not running air con any more so its been pulled out. The heater core just pulls out of the box
 

 
The insulator rubber just slips off and on over the top
 

 

 
Note the one pipe that has the curve in it. It needs to go to the top of the heater box when put back in.
 

 
While you have it apart you might as well refoam the flaps. I used a 10mm square that i got from spotlight with a spray on glue
 

When putting it all back together just use a bead of silicone to seal it
 

the older days you would kit them but those masters you cant hoan out can only give a light polish unless you want to spend the cash and get it sleved

Go a pbr one any good parts shop will be able to get one in

thanks jack they should work well for me 

Here is a bit of a rundown on the replacement of the heater core. It was done on an XD so could change slightly between models. I didn't take the photos when i pulled it apart so these are only when it was put back in.
 

All the screws around the outside need to be undone. It is also stuck together with a sicaflex type glue.
 

 
This is the inside of the heater box, there is normally an air con evaporator on the rhs but im not running air con any more so its been pulled out. The heater core just pulls out of the box
 

 
The insulator rubber just slips off and on over the top
 

 

 
Note the one pipe that has the curve in it. It needs to go to the top of the heater box when put back in.
 

 
While you have it apart you might as well refoam the flaps. I used a 10mm square that i got from spotlight with a spray on glue
 

When putting it all back together just use a bead of silicone to seal it
 

Good work Mate. Should help a few people out!

Go a pbr one any good parts shop will be able to get one in

DSC04844 by dan1_721, on Flickr
 
DSC04843 by dan1_721, on Flickr

thanks for that gerg i have always just put them togeather and never had a problem i cant even say i have seen my brother inlaw use one on his race car

I know it sounds funny but try kingswood country they got a bit of ford stuff

My attempt from years ago: