mcfly94

I changed mine from power to manual. Different box and pitman. I bolted the box in, the column only lines up with the box one way. Then I sat in the car worked out the lock to lock I think it was about 5.25 turns. Then halved it. Cable tied the wheel at that position to the indicator stalk. Then eyed the wheels straight. Hoped back under the car and very carefully slid the pitman arm back on the box spline. I then had to reposition the steering wheel on the column spline. Drives straight as a nail as I didn't adjust any tie rods or anything

Your not wrong there, love my spacers!

Yeah but you forget. It took me 18 months to get the first shock spacer out my door.
That said, It's really hard to get the spacers. and when you can tehy are way too exxy. IMO $170 is too exxy but the cost of having them in alloy doubles the manufacture $$$.(im a fishass)
But You can buy the trailing arms off the net. They usually cost 300+ though.
 
PS.. not polished. They r gonna be fkn BLLLAACKKKKKKK

Selfish bastard!!! We have become a custom to wen crazy designs we all win lol

Any area you have etched will need to be primed with either hifill or surface as paint dosn't stick as well to bare etch,
 
also with any rust pitts, holes, etc wire wheel the absolute shit out of them and use rust converter
then use the fiberglass as you have done, you will still need to apply normal filler over the top as Glass leave large pin hole and craters that primer just cant fill, even though it's called hifill its build still isn't that thick.
 
Then block all primed areas with 240 or 320 dry if you like then 600 - 800 wet.
 
on your blend panel's/ area just use either 1000 or grey scotchbrite to scuff up the clear you DO NOT want to go through to colour as this defeats the purpose of doing blends,
 
With your guards / bonnet if they are new as in just in black e coat you will need to prime them before you paint them, I'm asumming you can wet on wet it like we do with 2pak which means you just prep the panel and apply primer then colour then clear in one go.
 
The gun your were speaking of is good for primer but the tip size is to large for top coat you want a 1.3 - 1.4 for top coat and spray pressure
at 1.5 - 2 bar (22 - 29) psi.
 
 
you will need a blending agent for the blend panels so the metallic lays down evenly and dosnt sit up in the sanding marks, any paint shop will be able to understand what you need for this procedure.
 
also you do not rub the base before applying clear. that's all i can think of at the moment

You can by a primer filler which will do the prime and hi fill. You can use more thinners to thin it down as well. I got mine from crash supplies at stepney.

depending on the severity, if you do not get spot on the same, lock to lock, your tie rod adjusters are probably not centered. If you adjust both tie rod ends to the left the same amount, the wheels will still be dead straight and parallel, but the drag link will move to the left and so will your steering wheel. Taking you out of center and creating a difference between full lock left to right. This is what happens after multiple wheel alignments with dodgy shops. Each time they adjust it a little more over. each time. Until eventually someone pulls the steering wheel off and moves it around a tooth on the spline. The situation keeps amplifying itself until you end up with sloppy center steering when your going straight down the road. Feels like bump steer. and you cannot turn as sharp one way, as you can the other.
 
Don't quote me but i'm pretty sure there is only 1 place to install the pitman arm as it has a keyway. You will see anyway, when you assemble it.
 
From memory there is a mark or a dot on the coupling flange that you gotta line up. Pull the cap out of your steering wheel and the NUT! Under the nut you'll see a mark on the steering column shaft end. make sure the small mark is at the 12 o-clock position. Then before you bolt the box in make sure you count the turns left-right and go in the middle.
If the box is in good nick, at the most center the box will be "tight" As you go left, or right, of total center the box will get play between the input and output. This is normal and a design feature of these steering boxes.
 
 
Good luck.

Bare metal. Etch. Prime. Bog. Smoothe. Prime. High fill. Wet sand 600. Base colour. Clear coat.
 
Sounds simple.
 
Steves right tho. But cold at the minute unless you got heaters.

My tip is
"wait for spring weather, its much to cold right now to paint"

Thats why you cut them in half

youl be ok ,youl notice the rear of the master cylinder is clean its ok but if it looks a bit sugary white n crusty at the rear its shot or if its just plain pissing out fluid,

Check this out boys...
 

 
So I guess this settles the OHC/carby idea.Imagine the torque and HP this thing would have in a no weight race car.He would have to "drive" into the accelerator like a V8 supercar cos it would turn them skinny sidewall tyres to smoke!
 
I was so close to doing this but couldn't let my x-flow go,but there is always my sedan after all.Hmmmm? 

My guess would be to install the box with the pitman arm off and turn it full lock one way, then full lock the other way and count the number of turns. Then turn it back exactly half and line up the pitman arm with the wheels pointed straight ahead and the steering wheel in the correct position. Then off for a wheel alignment!

The MSD 6530 sounds like a fkn winner! If your running carby and want performance on a dizzy it sounds like it's the best option.
 
I'm running an inductive system. TFI dizzy and high energy single coil pack controlled by Megasquirt ECU. Gets good spark energy and superior duration compared to an capacitive (ie MSD) system but it's a no go zone above 6000rpm if you use a dizzy as it will exceed the duty cycle of the coil.
If you want to rev over 6000rpm on a dizzy you pretty much have to go capacitive system or you'll be sacrificing your dwell times = less spark.
Make no mistake however, MSD is a very good system. It's proven. Throwing out an MSD to switch to inductive on a dizzy would be silly. However, if you are YET to upgrade your ignition system, and are not planning on exceeding 6000rpm. Inductive should be considered.
 
I mentioned COP and CPP before and there were a few questions.
COP and CPP stands for Coil on Plug and Coil Per Plug Respectively. The difference is COP the coil connects directly to the plug, there is no spark lead. With CPP the coils are mounted remotely and a lead run to the plug.
COP and CPP systems take out the dizzy all together, a single coil fires each plug. This gives less variation in timing, greater reliability and less resistive points for loss in spark energy.
The coils duty is 1/6th sequential or 1/3 wasted, that of a dizzy coil. So, you can run full dwell well above 10,000rpm for max spark on an inductive system.
 
COP/CPP waste spark means exactly that. It is a coil on plug or a coil per plug installation that uses only a crank trigger to run.
 
To expand,
To get the correct timing on a dizzy you only need a signal every TDC. So for a 6 cylinder you need 6 signals per camshaft rotation. The dizzy sends the spark to the correct plug.
WIthout the dizzy you need to tell the ECU which coil to fire. So it needs to know TDC on number 1 cylinder so it can correctly sequence the firing order. The first version of this is a trigger wheel on the crank.
 
There are 720 degrees crankshaft rotation, per ignition event, per cylinder.
Meaning the computer only knows TDC on cylinder 1. NOT if it is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke.
Problem? The solution is easy. The ECU simply fire's on both!
 
There will be a spark at TDC exhaust AND TDC compression. One spark ignites the fuel mix. and the other... does nothing. As it's sparking against no compression (the exhaust valve is open)and into exhaust fumes. Therefore it is 'Wasted'
 
Thats where it comes from. Waste spark means every second spark on each cylinder is 'wasted'
 
To get full sequential spark, you need to know if the engine is on the exhaust, or compression stroke. This information is picked from the Camshaft via a camshaft position sensor.
 
Questions? =P

sometimes I wish I went the 6530 over just the street fire cdi
 
However I went CDI Street Fire CDI, MSD Blaster 3 and TFI running module (new rotor, new cap, and real good clean), the spark increase was insane!, car idles so much smoother, better fuel burn, and im actually getting an extra 100kms to a tank, on a rough tune.
 
Only issue is sometimes its hard to start, but I think that's down to my piss ant power cables, will soon be sorted by some 50mm2 cable! (0awg for those don't know)

I dont have #1 grounded and it works still? But yes i use TFI and msd 6530 programmable ;-)

Then it's like mine and leaking through the windscreen at the top and rolling down behind the pillar trim down to the liver panel took me awhile to figure it out re chalk the windscreen no leak
 
 
 

iv put the ghia/fairlane LTD light in my XF, fuckin heaps better than the standed one

there is an area,just above the clutch pedal area were every x falcon rusts out ,in the plenuim there is only one way for the water to escape and it drains out the drivers side ,check to see its not blocked there causing it to overflow at the other side

Reading lamps operate regardless of the ignition switch I think.

I can get you some tomorrow if you'd like? (And if I remember)

yeah I know, going to rebuild all the main parts on my car, like brakes, diff, trans, steering box as they need attention, then the car will have just about everything replaced ready for a bigger power setup

I know it's your car and wants but 19 is right after 18...I run 19" Drift R's on my XF Ghia and love the look of em but they came of a XE which they looked even better on.
 

 
Surely the tyre sourcing is easier for 19's now days then 18's too? If I went 15-6"it would be old school Welds or such and new would be a modern 5 spoke.
 
Just seem to work well for me,either way good luck with your choice bro and keep us posted ay.

Vertini Drift...

Nope, the cops dont get too picky with panels, XC front on XB etc, but, engines and suspension, they're real hot on.
Can get defected here for not having tyre placard in door jamb, windscreen squirters not working or non standard engine bits. Holleys/Air Horns/ Harnesses and such.
 
You know,...the stuff that makes your car SAFER !  Racing seats, Harnesses, bigger brakes, low profile tyres...........
 
But, Granny Ethel can drive her 180B down the road with the front guard flaping in the breeze, and rust holes in the boot, so big, you can see the back seat. But at least it's standard.