Gravelrash

Problem found. 
replaced the fan speed switch  and is now as good as the day it left the factory. 

Problem found. 
replaced the fan speed switch  and is now as good as the day it left the factory. 

Problem found. 
replaced the fan speed switch  and is now as good as the day it left the factory. 

Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors -
 
Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi)
Leave for a few hrs, and results should show. 🙂
 
 

I have already done the belt driven dizzy conversion. Came up a treat. 

OTD250...Still at the front  

I put it like this...Haleys Comet made 1500hp out of a meth turbo SBF and ran 7's @ 170plus MPH with a dizzy and single MSD HVC coil. They can't be that bad dude...  

My xflow uses... EF crank,SBC conrods,SBC and ford bearings,Yamaha pistons,SBC balancer,Windsor flexplate,BBC rockers,BBC pushrods,BBF lifters,Windsor and Holden valves,custom guide plates,custom tray sump girdle stud kit,Toyota guides,Windsor sump stud kit. 
 
Xflow head stud kit,xflow based but non stock manifold,timing chain kit and a custom but xflow based camshaft and oil pump and a xflow based block and cyl head.
 
The list of xflow parts is much smaller then non originals where as chasing power with a barra you use more or less all Barra.Oh and a turbo.

I vote we change the forum name to ozFlow

Some things I know about boost;
 
Boost gets the bitches,
Some is good - more is better,
Despite the above you need to show restraint or bad things happen,
It creates lotsa heat - so make your exhaust seat fat
If it's a streeter - don't tell the cam grinder its for a turbo, just buy a towing cam (straight from Ray Hall that one)
Cooler air going in makes for better/ safer boost levels,
Blow thru turbo is cool- but a pain in the butt to tune for street,
If its an auto - get a full manual body, lack of vacuum causes issues with the auto,
If your using an auto with a turbo you are a girl - piss it off and put in a manual (Ray Hall again - he seriously hates auto turbo??)
The more boost you add, the less timing you need,
Long stroke motors like the crossy love boost and lastly,
 
It creates some good arguments on forums........

Thanks for posting those part numbers up mate. I intended to do a complete part number list for Thor when I finished. You just saved me some work.

Todays progress on THOR. 6 pistons in bed with the crank and the camshaft fitted with spacer and dowl and installed. All clearances checked, of course and very happy with how it is all going. Quality machining makes assembly a real pleasure.
 

 

 
Apologies for the sepia look of the photos. It is seriously raining up here at the moment and there is very little natural light coming into the shed and the old mercury vapour light tends to be a bit yellowy. Oh and the thongs belong to Ross who came down for a look today. Typical FNQ wet season safety footwear.

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end.  Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. 
 
Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. 
 
The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil.  This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving.
 
To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for.  FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications.  Basically they were built to last.  This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad.  This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure.  I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle.  In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). 
 
Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last.  So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!!  Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. 
 
If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps.  Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors.
 
Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.

Talking about injecting e85 in a post up further, I thought I would show you what I have been working on lately.
It's a 10lt alloy fuel cell (a bit of overkill) an 044 pump, 1/4" hard plastic line to the front and a water/methanol jet tapped into the ls1 throttle body. I was going to use a Hobbs pressure switch to activate the pump, but my mate and I have worked out we can trigger the pump from the Delco ecu.
It's a work in progress and not finished yet.

Gerg, with the ecu doing the switching I can configure it to either come on and off 100% or I can stage it like your talking. For example I can say bring in say 25% at 4psi, 50% at 5psi and 100% at 6psi.
I can also set up the ecu with a switch to run dual maps. Switch in position 1 could be with e85 injection, switch position 2 can be the same tune but no e85 spray and less timing for when the tank might run dry. Potentially saving an engine.
OR switch position 1 can be race map
Switch position 2 can be everyday driving..
Possibilities are endless

Talking about injecting e85 in a post up further, I thought I would show you what I have been working on lately.
It's a 10lt alloy fuel cell (a bit of overkill) an 044 pump, 1/4" hard plastic line to the front and a water/methanol jet tapped into the ls1 throttle body. I was going to use a Hobbs pressure switch to activate the pump, but my mate and I have worked out we can trigger the pump from the Delco ecu.
It's a work in progress and not finished yet.

I am probably the only freak on here that actually builds and bench tests oil pumps. I also have conducted a science experiment where I turned the oil pump with a drill with the sump off and holding a container of oil under the pump just to see how fast it emptied the container and where the oil 'leaked' from to see if my windage tray design worked.
Yes I need to get a life but this is the reason I build big capacity sumps and windage trays and know the best pickup to sump floor clearance for efficient pumping. Yes I am a freak.

Thanks fellas. Remember you will only get as much out of it as you put into it. Feel free to upload pics and contribute as much as possible.

Thanks fellas. Remember you will only get as much out of it as you put into it. Feel free to upload pics and contribute as much as possible.

Thanks fellas. Remember you will only get as much out of it as you put into it. Feel free to upload pics and contribute as much as possible.

Honda did design and help Ford with the original castings and every single head was tweaked along the way to the final D head.
 
The E heads are EFI and have the biggest inlet but lowest compression the C type heads have the most comp but suffer from poor chamber design and the early HF cast heads found on XD to early XE are my favorites thanks to the big open chamber but the castings are usually softer.

Ok come on guys this is turning into a personal opinion thread not what was asked.So before everyone pulls there cocks out please restrain from attacking each others views/ideas cos there different to yours.
 
We have all learned somthing from this thread thus far and tbh I doubt the op will continue to entertain his original thoughts but any postitive info is good for all.

not bad for an ole taxi motor hey

I have the skinny green 42lb injectors in my crossflow, I didn't have to file anything. fitted straight in.

bump. check out some of the wildest crossflows ever seen