SPArKy_Dave

Do a key relearn, that should fix it!

Thanks for your help on this guys, I have been putting this job off for ages but finally got it done. Pulling the steering box out is the way to go. The central nut on the coupling is not tight, but it has a locking tab piece that needs to be bent with a fine flat screwdriver to unlock it, and a locking washer thingy. No way it was coming off while in the car. I used the tuning fork style ball joint separator to remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage.
 
I had to pull the drivers side header to get it out the bottom. A pain in the neck, but it gave me an excuse to install some brand new Pro Flow stainless headers I have had lying around for ages, and they fit great. Much nicer than the crusty old Pacemakers I was running. Also took care of some sway bar and leading arm bushings that needed doing.
 
Now I just need to pop out for some ATF to fill up the PS reservoir and it'll be all done.
 
I took some pictures that will hopefully help someone in the future with this job.
https://imgur.com/a/OBWTbNV
(VIDEO LINK totally shagged rag joint compared to new one) https://i.imgur.com/ie8KtNP.mp4
 

 

 

 

Yeah with the shifters on ford single rails I have found 4 types 
1  Cortina shifter
2  the long fork
3  the shorter fork 
4  the long fork with the narrow horse shoe.
And what I have found is number 4 is very early, number 2 is around xb to xd and number 3 is xe to xf . 
Found out all this the hard way.

My XB panelvan project, is a factory manual V8 vehicle.
Before I owned it, someone converted it to Auto, thus I'm attempting to return it to stock.
 
It would've been factory fitted with a Single Rail gearbox,
but I'm struggling to identify what an XB single rail gear shifter, actually looks like.
 
I've purchased a date-code correct gearbox, but the shifter it came with, is clearly not right.
 
From what little info I can find, XB single rail shifters were chrome plated,
same as Escort and Cortina (and XD falcon too) single rails.
 
I've managed to find one person with a chrome plated shift lever, but they're asking north of $100 for it,
so I need to be sure it's right.
 
Here are the pics they sent me of it... can anyone tell me if it's XB, XD, Escort/Cortina etc?
 



 

 

 


 

 
 
 

sounds like you have a 6cyl tacho ?
and possibly 3.5 ratio diff

4000 definitely doesn't sound right (unless it has a massive hi stall converter also ?) 

even 4.11 diff ratio would only be about 3400rpm in my calculations

Ok SPArKy_Dave, My mate plugged in his "Super Dooper" KingChrome OBD Scanner and it showed "No Codes".We did that 3 x separate times and still No Codes came out. But upon fiddling with the ignition key It starting to turn over freely. Fuel Pump working and fuel coming thru.I'll check the plugs and coils tomorrow and might try swapping the coils with the BA that goes. Now I'm not at all familiar with the workings of the Barra motor. So they have a Coil on Plug arrangement or that Funny looking big long coil with separate outlets on it.? I'm also going to look @ the BA Manual on the computer tonight.I also reckon I might have to change the key ignition barrel too.

Hi SPArKy_Dave, So PATS is the BAs version of Smartlok? I've been takeing the battery in and out a few times and I've noticed thats when these Issues start to occur.. Thanks again, Will see How it goes.

Perhaps it's a problem with PATS?
(Passive Anti-Theft System - B-series anti-theft)
 
Sometimes the keys can lose their connection with the vehicle, and need to be re-programmed.
A scan tool, should be able to see if PATS is active, to prevent or allow vehicle starting.
 
A scan-tool should also allow easy key programming, if needed.

Hello SParky_Dave. Thanks for the reply. The Fuel pump is working and fuel is getting to the Fuel Rail. I can't see the "Crank Angle Sensor" as I don't know what it looks like or where it is. However when trying to Start it today and troubleshoot it would'nt even turn over at all. And thats with a good battery and the other BA Ute going nearby with Jumper Leads attached. All I can gather is I hear a sort of Clicking sound coming from under the Dash on the right hand side, like above the fuse box. What could that be? An ICU or BCM? Do they sometimes Crap themselves out? My mate with the scanner should turn up tomorrow. Anyway the Caravan Park management might want me to get it out the way and move it over to a fence which is about 60" away downhill. I've heard you can't Tow an Auto but it should be Ok to Push it in neutral hey? Thanks again. This RTV has been the most reliable Ford when I was driveing it everyday But as they say. Just sitting there sometimes does'nt do a car any good.

If no spark, look at the crank angle sensor.
Take off fuel supply hose at the fuel rail, and check the pump is priming with ign on, and/or flowing when cranking.
 

One thing that can catch you out, the bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering shaft and steering box need to be completely removed not just loosened as the prevent the rag joint from sliding off when still fitted

it will self bleed, but you only need to crank the engine for a second or so and the pump will need topping up again, so do that a few times so the pump doesn't run dry (they can get noisy if running with no fluid for longer than 10 seconds even)
good question 
 
the silly question is one that isn't asked (that's what our trade school teacher taught us anyway)

that's possibly stuffed because the steering column is further back than it should be. (needs tapping down/levering down so the rag joint is not distorted)
 
i can't remember on the power steering ones, i think they bolt in from the centre of the shaft @SPArKy_Dave to the rescue again. 

probably is doable in the car if so. but i'm not sure if there's any traps to look out for (aka should it be in the straight ahead position or full lock when doing the nut up etc)

Any idea where I’d be able to get a new Hall effect sensor for it?


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I'd look at replacing the hall effect sensor inside the distributor.
A failing sensor, commonly causes the issue you describe.
 

good luck with the sale, 
I've given up on several cars that did My head in over the years. right thing to do at the time, and i rarely remember them unless i see one for sale 10times the price i sold it for.
 

Thanks mate


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Pretty sure they're the same as all falcons and USA fords - mustangs etc.
There are new ones available.
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314416055288
https://www.autoware.com.au/shop/classic-mustang-falcon-ford-pickup-parts/1979-93-mustang/fuel-1979-93-mustang/1965-86-fuel-sending-unit-filter-5-16-or-3-8-diameter-line/
https://nationalmustangs.com.au/products/1965-1973-ford-mustang-3-8-fuel-sender-filter?variant=35243107549336
https://themusclecarpartsgarage.com.au/product/sender-unit-fuel-filter-3-8/
 

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what tyres and suspension is it running?

i liked zero deg camber,  and 2mm toe in  can't remember the castor 
@SPArKy_Dave probably has the same ideals if he remembers

I believe this is it
 sorry for the hassle
 

Sparky Dave the thingy i described is for when either the front or rear brake lines loses preasure. It sits in a neutral position when both front and back brakes have preasure but if say the rears lose preasure the front brake preasure will force the litlle piston to move and so doing makes the brake fail switch turn on. The reverse happens if the front brakes lose preasure. It has preasure either end of it which keeps it from moving, then when it loses preasure at on end it is pushed to the on position. Simple. Just wondering if one of the 2 holes in the rear resrve are connect to that little piston. As i said one hole is rite above the brake fail piston and thats the one shooting fluid way into the air. Got an origonal newold stock cap seal on it but it still comes out around the ca I adges, even though the lid clip is as tight as.

Absolute Legend Dave, thats really awesome, cheap too! Im going to get one and then put it all back together! Ive got a gasket to make!

crossflows will run with sand in the oil, but it's not ideal on a rebuild spec

Sparky Dave, the PBR master cylinders are unobtainium if new. PBR got bought out by Bosch who quicly stopped preducing any labelled PBR products. One on the net now NOS $880 or a referb to good quality fron $665 BUT! I think you have to supply a unit to them that is good enough to refurb! I was going to make sure about the O2 sensor quantity on the EB as I have been told 1 and also 2. I am after a second hand EB WORKSHOP MANUAL to help with my head scratching. I had a thought today that if the rear brake master piston seals fail does it force fluid up into the reserve? There are two holes in each reserve,front and rear brakes. The hole its pissing up through in the rear brake reserve is a tiny little hole at the front drivers side of the reserve. In fact looking at photos my reserve hole looks smaller than any others in the photos. Could these extra small holes in each reserve be where the fluid can go when a seal fails? In fact the hole looks to be to the side and directly over the little piston/plunger thingy for the brake fail switch. Hmmm. Any ideas you guys that know lots of stuff about brakes?