bear351c

That is true about the heater hoses in the firewall getting in the way, since I had a clevo in a 85 XF,.....but a work around is ( if your not interested in A.C ), is to plumb the heater hoses into the AC core...........( some hunting in supercheap for S bend heater hoses did the trick )and I guarantee you 100%.......you will get better heat in the cabin, thanks to the bigger AC core....and i just cut the ends of the original heater core and plumbed them up............

Yeah, I watch Richard Holdener every now and then. Like the way he documents everything. 
 
Agreed, it's a struggle to see what is "Factory" anymore, But a Windsor with Clevo heads is still an awesome thing to behold. 😁

Yeah, I watch Richard Holdener every now and then. Like the way he documents everything. 
 
Agreed, it's a struggle to see what is "Factory" anymore, But a Windsor with Clevo heads is still an awesome thing to behold. 😁

Although I'm pretty impressed, there ain't much Clevo left in that engine... 

Although I'm pretty impressed, there ain't much Clevo left in that engine... 

Although I'm pretty impressed, there ain't much Clevo left in that engine... 

Be warned........they ain't cheap.!!   I rebuilt a couple, some parts are made of unobtainium, pistons are pricey, and specific (for XC/XD) 
 
 

Be warned........they ain't cheap.!!   I rebuilt a couple, some parts are made of unobtainium, pistons are pricey, and specific (for XC/XD) 
 
 

I would say, it's probably for the old style "wide" bearings. Dont think many people use them anymore, the side loads when cornering wore them out prematurely, I believe. Not 100% sure, The 9" s that I have used, shortened, fitted all had the thinner bearings, and standard axle plates.

It does, but dads a has a bigger fuel system than what is supplied with the sniper kit 

I love the holley sniper we put on dads clevo, the only downside I've seen is they can be rather finniky with dual plane intakes
Before

After

Year of the block will be cast into a small pad behind the starter, on the block. Almost impossible to see with the starter in place.  Will say something like 7H12, or similar. 
So, 1967  for the first number, H is August, 12th day.  

Hi. I have a 5lt efi EB XR8 engine , according to my ecu info on my car, and have been looking at the engine number on my rego to try and identify the year and model it came out of. I have seen on other posts info on where to look for the number on the block but have not been able to site it yet. The info I found says above the starter above or below the starter. I did find some info on 302 and 5lt blocks but it may have been American. Do the Aus blocks have a different number system to the yanks or are they the same? My engine number, according to the rego papers is PG32847. Can any one give me a link that works or identify my number for me. This motor is in my 66 XR ute so I can't give any other specific info on the vehicle to help with a search. Hope some one can help. Ta

The build date and the casting date are often different. The engine cast date eg: 9G5  simply states that the block was cast in the foundry that day. May have sat on the shelf for months before being shoved in a car, van, Fairmont or whatever.  Unless the engine number is matching your VIN tags, and shock tower, theres no real value in getting one the exact date your car was made. ( Just remember black blocks have different size holes in them for distributor shaft.)

The build date and the casting date are often different. The engine cast date eg: 9G5  simply states that the block was cast in the foundry that day. May have sat on the shelf for months before being shoved in a car, van, Fairmont or whatever.  Unless the engine number is matching your VIN tags, and shock tower, theres no real value in getting one the exact date your car was made. ( Just remember black blocks have different size holes in them for distributor shaft.)

...and a longer steel fuel line, (goes in front of shock tower).  Pretty sure the LTD/Fairlane have longer leaf springs as they are based on the station wagon platform, so they won't fit if you go leaf spring.   6 cyl rad from an XF will keep a Clevo cool with a stock fan, but MUST use a shroud and correct length fan spacer. 
 
Oh, and Welcome mate. Got any pics of the XE.?  

Hi all, New to the forum and have some questions I need help with. I have a 1984 XE sedan, 4.1 auto and I am converting to a V8. I have been told that once conversion done a RWC and a view by Vic Roads should suffice. Now my questions, I have purchased a 1984 LTD, 351 complete, I have done this as I believe that a lot of the 6 cylinder components will be no good for a V8, I am replacing radiator, water pump hoses etc with new. I know I will have to shorten the tail shaft as the LTD is a longer car. Would the LTD have an LSD? I know it is not a 9inch. The LTD has leaf springs and the XE has coil on the rear, the XE has drums on the rear, What is the best way to get the LTD diff and discs on to the XE? Should I run with leaf or coil on the rear or is it too hard to swap ? Someone told me that an E series diff is what I need out of something like an EB XR6, Is this correct and will it change straight over or what needs to be changed? Any help or advice appreciated. The LTD was paddock ridden and has heaps of rust and interior is very ordinary but the XE is rust free and repainted, nice low ride with a Fairmont interior, that is why I am not pursuing the LTD. All other parts including interior less centre console on LTD is available to anyone interested, door and window trims appear good. 
Any other ideas or items I should be aware of please let me know
Regards
Sacko7

All done and for sale $3990

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Here is another HOLY GRAIL part i managed to buy this morning ,its a c4 pan fill big block bellhousing,these are very rare in australia and a s*** one goes for about $500 but since covid and not many people going on parts runs to the usa they are almost imposible to find ,i paid $700 for this one and suits a clapper type starter motor so the seller tells me,so now i can fit a c4 to my next 400 build and not worry about will shifters fit or extractor clearance and weight compard to a c6 also tailshaft length and the c6 zaps a fair bit of power,it bolts to any big block pattern 429/460 or 351m/400 and uses std 164 flywheel and converter .

Umm I think that was me... My brother (XPT Crossy) gave me a set of 12 Scorpions that were meant for his cross-flow turbo build, but he's since moved that on for another project (he does that, lol).

He bought them unused from another former member on here but when I went to bolt them on, the bolts were M8 x 1.25 instead of 5/16” UNC. This had me quite puzzled until I looked up the part number and the only cross-reference was for the 3.8 (Canadian) Essex V6, the T-bird engine as you mentioned.

All I did was get some 5/16" capscrews and they bolted on perfectly, correct pedestal height, correct preload and only needed shimming because my heads were shaved.

The remaining 4 weren't so easily obtained or fitted. I had to order them as individual items from Summit, the only ones available this way were listed for "351C/400/BFF" and when I bolted them down, they had about 0.090" of slop from cup to pushrod. So the supplied pedestals were too long. I machined them in the lathe by about 2.3mm and they bolted down fine.

The weird thing about these individual rocker kits is that they each came with twin mounting channels, as one would perhaps use in a Windsor or FE 1.73 retrofit. So maybe they were simply the wrong ones for that part number? I dunno, but the last 4 rockers are on and working now and I ended up with some spare crap that I likely will never use.

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Good news Jim.  I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure.
Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc,
 
Let us know how ya get on. 

Maybe some aspiring business person can go to the 'States and bring back a container full of V8 5 speeds, out of a Mustang graveyard, would make a killing.....

As a general rule with gearboxes, the deeper the ratio in 1st, the lower the torque capacity. This is derived from the amount of reduction given by the input shaft gear to layshaft ratio. The deeper this ratio, the more torque multiplication happens internally and this will reduce the overall torque capacity of the box.

So an XF-EA-EB1 will have 3.50 first (as mine does) and later ones will be a little taller (3.35 springs to mind).

The T5Z has a 2.95 1st, not overly tall like the close ratio toploader or single rail variants but this plus a wider gear design increased the torque capacity to 310 lb-ft vs 265 for the normal ones. This makes them still marginal behind a large displacement small block though.

Manual boxes are a niche market these days, so the few manufacturers left can basically name their price.

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Good news Jim.  I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure.
Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc,
 
Let us know how ya get on.