bear351c

OK, 595mm from underneath the cap, on the dipstick. is normal. 610mm is the ADD mark.  Check when HOT in PARK.

Yep, not much available for the cast iron lump. B&M don't make an adaptor for their shifters, can't buy aftermarket dipsticks, etc.....
 
But, I FOOKIN" LOVE THEM........heavy as hell, but, bullet proof. Neck snapping gear changes, and...............ok, I'll go out and measure mine. Back soon.

Brake booster diaphragm works on vacuum, so wont do much without engine running. Should be able to pump fluid through, but, if line is completely empty EG: all the way from master cyl to rear brakes, then you will probably empty the reservoir, before the pedal gets firm. Remember to only crack open the bleed screw a couple of mm, or air will be dragged back in. Always keep an eye on the reservoir level. Use a air operated break bleeder if you can scrounge one up.
Not sure how talented you are, but, this is usually a 2 man job, and a 6 pack. 
 
3 pumps up and down, hold to the floor.
Crack open bleed nipple for a second or two.
Lock it back up.
Release pedal.
Repeat.
 
Not suggesting you don't know this, just unsure how much experience you have.
Let us know how ya get on, matey.
 
Ha ha ha ha hah.......I wrote "nipple". That's so rude.

Yeah thats my handy work lol, works still to this day, but in the ute now, with the complete XE dash around it so i put it into a spare housing. It wasnt hard at all to do, your right about the dust factor steve, but all it needed was a quick blast with the air gun from under the fuse cover and it was good as gold again. Never had any trouble with the needles, i suspect that its a bit of a wives tale that one. The cluster illumination is about the only drama, as you need to shave it off to get it to fit. I broke mine down and fitted a neat strip of LEDs between the face plate and the gauge faces so it is sort of backlit like the XFs ones are, IE not shining onto the face of the cluster but shines up thru the gap around each gauge. Looks a tonne better and so much brighter.

wow, well im out. that would hve taken some work. hve never tried it or heard of someone doing it as they are bigger and thicker then the xf ones. good luck!

Regarding the Passenger side footwell.
 
This could be the same issue as the rusted plenum, however it sounds like the heater core, mine has just gone.
 
Try running water in the plenum grille below the windscreen only. If no water, clamp the heater hoses under the bonnet to see if it is still happening.
 
You should smell coolant if it is the heater, and you said it smells a fair bit so sounds like coolant, also your coolant level will be dropping all the time as most of the coolant will be going out of the drain-hole that comes out of the firewall, (under the bonnet), that comes out just above your passenger side chassis rail, with a smaller percentage going into your footwell.
 
I re-plumbed the inlet and outlet back into itself under the bonnet as a temporary fix, and will try the Resolene system sealant when I get a chance.
 
Your heater won't work but it stops it leaking as a quick fix.
 
Cheers,
 
Tim

all good found it, was playing with the wrong relay, not even sure what the one i was playing with does as it just pluged into itself down the loom.
 
plugged the signal wire that was on the relay onto the 351 remote solenoid and she cranked over. so thats pretty much all the electrics done. ill do the exhaust and fuel lines tomorrow then hopfully she will fire up

Put it this way, it isn't that hard to take out, just screws, nuts & disconnections.Getting it back in exactly right first time can be a lot trickier!!

Also only a small difference but ceramic extractors
 
 
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Maybe something to think about, but  what I do for a living has lot to do with air movement, static pressure as well atmospheric pressure, air speed etc etc. In my line work we  run  fans that draw  air through cooling pads, blackout pads and some cases filters on a large scale. The structure of these are very similar to radiator structure. The air to be drawn require alot of effort from a fan. In some cases a fan can work an extra 10% to acheive the correct air movement for purpose intended. If any of these are either clogged, over crowded/cluttered to prevent stable air flow or in most cases of the wrong design for the purpose intended (fan not right size or cooling, blackout or filter wrong size) the result is reduced cooling/air movement, overheating and failure of fan by burnout. Since the problem only occurs at traffic condition and your fan been replaced it maybe struggling to draw air through radiator, oil and auto cooler and if you have air con also condensor as well. So with a clevo and worked that already runs warm and you don't believe its the motor then either something up front is clogged or not up to the task. Maybe oil cooler and auto cooler are creating dead spots on radiator due to structure as aftermarket ones are of a tight structure and don't take much to clog up or as you said you believe radiator is not up to the task due to size of radiator to exchange heat efficently. Ideas anyway for you, just hope it makes sense and sorry if its long winded got 1 more day before weekend after doing a 12 day straight shift and I am fucked. 

Why are you overheating?? 
 
I've used standard XF 6 cyl rads on my 351's for years, stock fan and good shroud, Give my cars heaps, and never boiled over.
Just asking...

i've used both Aussie Desert Coolers and PWR in different cars (only one in an Xseries though)
steer clear of ADS, had a few issues with them (as have a lot of others)
PWR has been faultless thus far. and i honestly think i have had bought more than a dozen of them between mine and my mates cars.
PWRs design seems to be efficient.
 
dont know who does the biggest, but i do know there was a radiator shop in seymour (im pretty sure it was seymour) and the bloke used to do custom rads, everyone raved about him.
 
as far as cooling abilities, a copper (if your a millionaire) or brass radiator will be better at cooling than a alloy rad, alloy isn't as conductive. however finding a good condition rad to start with will be hard to find.
 
have you thought about the XABC 4 core radiators? they will keep just about anything cool.
 
i had one custom radiator made for an s13, cost $1300 with custom outlets, core size and end take positions. was for a drift car.

lucky because when I inspected the upper joint it is the worse thing I have ever seen of a car of this age. The weight this car must have had on it (ex tradesmen car) was extreme. When I checked them the first time there was signs of wear but I just wanted it due to the price and infact the engine is perfect and it has served me well. Its in my shed having the engine teared out and a xr6 or 8 cyl being placed in with many upgrades. Big plans, but so little money to do it so may take ages, I am doing the joints myself but with a mechanic looking over me

OCD maybe but it's also law. Blinkers must flash at a rate between 60 and 120 per minute. That's 1-2 per second. Any slower or faster than that range is illegal.

Sorry Saginaw.... I knew it started with an "S"
 
Stupid brain

Tough phenolic resin Zinc phosphate 24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in .......sounds like a night at Helga's House of Pain. (errr........so I've been told) Looks good, what could possibly go wrong. ??  Can you get that here?? Not sure if you can post aerosols overseas.
POR15 is good stuff, trying to remember a cheaper product I have used on motorbike fuel tanks....... brain dead, old fart.

i would love to just fix up the 82 as it is all matching 351/FMX numbers, but the floor pan is gone the underside of the car is full of rust, if you jack it up you cant close the doors due to it twisting. the interior is a mess, everypanel needs replacing, would love to  have a matching 351 but i have no want to sell it so im not bothered about resell value. 
 
already spoken to regency they said just to provide the engine number and the rego will go up a few bux, as its still a FD i can do it, if it was a FE then could not
 
ill be pulling the 83 down to a bare engine bay as want to give it a paint first before the 351 goes in. 

Wish it was as easy as Vicroads, every state has different laws especially Regency (Adelaide) are really tuff with these type conversions as you need an engineers certificate.

I'm still trying to work out why its hollow..???

Don't let the boys fire you up, mate. Buy the parts when you can afford them, ask for info and help if needed. Good luck.

351 diff should be a limo, box should be C4 or FMX, so swap the whole lot as the kind lads before have already said. Easier to swap the engine and tranny wholus bowlus to avoid fucking around with lining up converters and flex plates and crap like that. Power steer lines I think are the same (according to some parts mobs) but you'll want the V8 springs and sway bar if you don't want jelly handling and the car sniffing the road with it's bum in the air.

Fan belts are easy.......
 
V belt size example : 11A1050 is 11mm wide by 1050mm long, 13A0855 is 13mm wide by 855mm long.
Serpentine    "         : 5PK2350 is 5 grooves across by 2350mm long.
 
Cut your old belt and get length with tape measure, minus 20mm or whatever. All belts run on the sides of the 'vee'.
Most Auto shops have a belt measurement device, if you take yours in.
 

Used to buy all my engine stuff from Precision parts, good company to deal with. Reading their catalogue was like like seeing porn for the first time.

POR has its own rust converter works a treat. TBH that mainly looks like dirt with maybe a bit of surface rust. Use a wire brush on it then if it cleans it all away and no rust is there then use wax and grease remover ( POR has one of these as well) then apply POR paint. The POR bottle/tin should have all instructions on it mine does.

Anyone ever used something like this....?
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html