Jonathan Mark Davidson

Yeah NZ is great for modifications, still has to be certified as safe. So you could have an nf with a 6/71 302 if you want Bear, just have to live over here.

SA regs say no old engine in newer car body. Old Windsor XT, XW no good. New 5.0 litre Windsor ok, in E series. Providing it complies with emission control, etc etc.
 
Stoopid, flogbag, guvment departments...... should have National road laws for mods, speed limits, demerits, etc. Then I could buy a 6/71, 302Windsor and drop in my NF Fairlane and get it registered in any state, ( providing it's roadworthy. )

unfamilia is in vic and i remember reading somewhere that a re manufactored block is fine as long as its built to a polution standard of the year of the car
their for a newer 302 in victoria will be fine as long as it aint worked off its head whe converted to carby

Its a bit like a clevo and a big block, lots couldn't tell the difference when sitting in the engine bay.

so it looks like i need a ef head for my next project

grooving is aloud well it was 7 years ago so where winter tread tyres (no studs of coarse)

with guards try to get ones that are only 1layer thick they flex and are very hard to crack  i drilled many holed in my inner fenders to lighten my front up when i was racing along with the bumper (then one layer of race tape to cover them)
can even remove the roof skin and skin in fiber glass

Most classes allow for the removal of all sheet medal forward of the strut tower, doesn't sound like much but every little bit helps.  I am starting to get real anal about front weight as I want to improve me rear percentage to so that I can run less ballast early and then add ballast as the track slicks off. 
 
As HBWC has said the lighter fiberglass panels are the go because they flex - I have actually just gone to a one piece fibreglass front end (guards and bonnet as one) as it has allowed me to remove a hell of a lot of front bar work and I figure it will stop the guards from breaking where they mount to the body.  It will also make it easier to work on the engine.
 
Afco and many of the other brands make steel body shocks in various valve rates and they are as cheap as chips.  They also make stock springs in different poundages as does King springs and they are Australian.  Some of the Supercar boys were running King springs and I have run them and find them very good. 
 
The key to getting bite at the rear and stopping wheel spin wheel be softening the rear springs and increasing rear percentage.  You may also have to groove the tyres a little to help them bite, if that is allowed.
 
Lastly if you want a good book on chassis and suspension set up you can't go past 'Dirt Track Chassis and Suspension' from HP Books.  It is a yankee book but the info is good.  The ISBN is 978-1-55788-511-1. 

Just been offered a whole XH ute with a T5 in it for $300, only has 168k on the odo and fella said the body is rooted...
I know the bellhousing won't fit a crossflow, but if I found an XF T5 bellhousing, that box would bolt straight on yeah?
Is the diff a straight swap? And is there any worth to dropping the 4.0l engine in later down the track.
The ute is only down the road, and I can strip it there, old mate will get the body scraped.
Does it sound like a good way to go? As I'm on a tight budget at the moment...

nope its a single rail with a 5th gear shoved in the extension housing only ever available behind the 200xflow in a falcon

Without pissing in your pocket bro it is very good to see someone using there bench to solve issues not just make chev's faster if you get my drift.Some common sense thinking and some of your time and you have found out some stuff others will go there whole life without knowing.
 
Seriously props to you Sean.

you'll be fine if driven normaly and always drop down 2 4 to over take ect

Thanks a lot guys, I have been really hoping that was the case.
Just want it to help get the revs down at hwy speeds as I live out bush, so lots of 100kph roads around here.
So just don't go dropping the clutch, and only overtake in 4th, should last a little while yeah.
Appreciate the input guys.
Thanks, Jay.

I was super excited when I heard it run, it sounded tougher than any of the other 6's there and torched the tyres with ease. Was gutted when he sent me pics of the head LOL. He works at the local wreckers so has plenty of parts to play with, plus I don't charge him much. I do it for the fun and to see how my work performs. I need to find a video to post.

The one thing I have always wondered is why don't people just remove the imperial brake fitting and replace it with a metric one and re-flair the pipe

Go get yourself an air/fuel ratio meter mate, I wouldn't tune without one anymore. Mark your balancer every 10 degrees if your still running the stock one so you can see the total timing and when it all comes in etc etc. Start conservative and creep up on it slowly. What ignition system are you running and also what gear are you using eg manifold, exhaust, cam specs, compression etc etc.

That applys for 5.0l,302,289. 351 Windsor is a taller deck but you can buy manifolds to suit and use the rest off the 5.0l or you can buy wedge spacers to bolt the 5.0 intake to the taller 351 block

That would be my choice but the speedway class states that the webber has to be used unfortunately.

Chris's finished head flows 216cfm and is stable all the way to his lift point, this was tested with a stock 1.84in valve, the valves going into the head are a 1.86in with a back cut on the valve so the final numbers will be slightly higher.
Now to report my fuck ups with this thread, when I first tested these ports they pulled 231cfm and I was pretty happy with that because my test port only flowed 216cfm, the results didn't sit right with me for days as I couldn't see how the results were so different considering I copied the test ports dimensions over to this head, then when I was retesting a freak thing happened and answered why, my son was in the workshop while I was testing and he threw a tissue that went near the exhaust port of the head and the tissue got sucked in, the test spring that was holding the exhaust valve wasn't holding the exhaust valve hard against the seat and was leaking air giving a false reading, this happened at 150 thou of lift and above. Once I put some shims under the spring the results went back down to my test port figures. What this also means is that the results I got with the head before I touched it are also wrong as I used the same springs when I first tested it and the same thing would of been happening, so the base results recorded are too high, hard to say what they actually were but they were less than what I wrote down. Anyway the head flows good and will produce the power I was aiming for. 

They are not the same.
XD sedan senders are longer then XE/XF senders.
XD-XF Wagon are the same length but are different as far as pickups and breathers are concerned.
XD-XF Ute, Van are the same length but are also different as far as pickups and breathers are concerned.
 
I copied this from the fuel tank thread:

They're the same.
 
The "stuffed" one is an XE part number and the one you got from a mate is an XD part number.
 
Both XD and XE senders are the same and have the same parameters, except for EFI cars.
 
The link above from agentkiwi is worthwhile... I would try to clean the original one up first, it usually fixes them.

grab some xf lower mounts they will work well any xflow lower mount should

id sell my soul for tailgates, but havin said that i nearly have everything i need.
im with johno, we found some decent 12v latches on eBay which would work a treat and realy smooth out the look of the back. if you install a duel battery set up with the proper little gizmos so one will always have charge, there wouldnt be a problem with electric latches.
i also want to install an electric actuator or 2 so i can open and close the upper tailgate from an electric window switch or something similar. that way when ya cruisin down the highway with the gate up and you come to some dust or rain or what ever you can shut it without stopping, pritty trick i recon

Have a look at red arc .... Damn good value for money

Master is same ... AS IN NO DIFFERENCE