Jonathan Mark Davidson

over drive will be good for you and where you live

Getting my AOD this week
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always loved f350 banana backs,I'd get too carried away tarting one up if i had one though.
Power steering?

Bring it down to NSW and Ill be in charge of marketing sales and beer.

HBWC, your a legend. Most X series suffer from voltage drop on demand in the electrical system. The starter is a perfect example.
That relay set up allows full power to the motor of ya power windows, not unlike a starter relay.
 
Also be careful when changing bailey channels, the clark rubber one is too shallow and ends up 'clamping' on the glass causing window motors to struggle or fail.
Me mate Ash found that out the other day. Poor bastard.
 
Jack.

yes  and can mount them anywhere and just use the wires at the motor end as your switch wires to make things simple

my ruff  diagram i use using flip flop relays

yes  and can mount them anywhere and just use the wires at the motor end as your switch wires to make things simple

i installed my relays under the centre console, you only need to tap into the wires that go to the door, the location doesnt matter

Interesting.
Do you install the relays in the door frame, ?
 
I like the drawing, even i can understand it. When God handed out the electrical modules for humans, I was chatting up this hot as Angel, and must have missed out. Thats why I play with engines..

One of these.??
 

Try feeding them 12v from a battery directly and see if they are faster. Fair chance the switches aren't great either.

1

xh hinge bolts exact same as the other x series so i couldn't see an issue their i can get pics if you need
(i have a xh dooor sitting hear atm)

295 will physically under stock gaurds on a xh but offset will be very important (i carnt help their ive only mocked tyres under the van)
or with a mini tub they will piss in

295 will physically under stock gaurds on a xh but offset will be very important (i carnt help their ive only mocked tyres under the van)
or with a mini tub they will piss in

I haven't bothered yet, when my surgeries are done I will go full steam ahead with the business and advertise, plus everyone local knows I built it lol

Yeah she starts at 70psi cold and drops to 45psi at full noise for the last couple of laps, back in the pits after a race she is 25psi hot idle, the water temp recovers quite quickly once at idle, a bigger radiator is going to be installed but I personally think we need to slow the water pump down with a bigger pulley for full noise racing, give the coolant more time to do it's job and stop any cavitation at constant high rpm.

Well after a great result on the weekend everything has turned to shit, discovered that the rear main had shit itself leading to low oil level which lead to low oil pressure spikes, this scored the big end bearings. Pulled motor yesterday and got everything ready to reassemble today, under pressure to be finished and going today as I have surgery tomorrow morning, then a piston and rod jumped off the bench and put a crack in it.... FUCK!!!! So now I have to wait for a new piston and hopefully I will be up to it next week to finish it. Also massive thanks to Ando for his help again with the oiling system and general advice, your a champ cheers.

Another update .
Sump painted & old engine mounts cut out of chassis .
Then test fit again .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got to make chassis engine mounts for the engine plate , move steering rack & sway bar mounts .
Sorry if there is too many pic's , BUT most forums like pic's .

I have built an MK'1 V8 escort , about 12 or so years ago . Fun car , Now i am changing it < as i still have it .
Here are some pic's .
 

 
Off to a burn out comp .

 

 
Just finished painting it . sorry bad pic's . Like i said it was a long time ago , phones did have the best cameras in them .

 
The new changes .
Moving the steering rack , to drop engine lower . Still need to cut & modify . old mounts .

 
Engine plate , this will give me more room .
 

 

 
This is what i have got up to so far . Of the 1st nov & the 2nd of nov .
Cut sump as well , just to tuck it up more , removed the big old engine mounts . Still got to remove the engine mounts
on the cross member , will have to remake gear box mount . Run out of time last time & got lazy ..
Just used a flat bar & put bolts through the floor . Worked & didn't move . I already have a 9 inch .
 
Thanks for looking & have a great day .

It will work, the part of the handle that pushes the pivot down is in different spots between the different doors.
I have been through it before. I do have an XD,XF and XH and I double checked them before I posted yesterday.
The cut out in the doors is the problem, they changed it on XG-H.
Take a look how the handle acheives the push or the pull, the same handle will either push or pull depending on the location of the hole for the rod.

Maybe it will work, if I get his drift. Swap the handles side for side and modify the handle opening so they with pull up and clear. Then drill a hole for the XG/H clip on the part of the pivot arm that goes down (like a standard one does). Without actually checking an XG/H handle myself I reckon this might just work.

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

that wont work as a xg/h is a push to unlock where a xd/e/f is a pull to unlock i'll get photos as i have a few broken ones i need to fix