Nath

Probably more like 6k (realistically) but you don't need to spin it to make power... That's the whole point of them.

Manual steering would fix this problem

Manual steering would fix this problem

How is Mr slave?? You were with him last night??

Here's the equation to work it out.
 

Honestly if QLD is anything like NSW I'd save my time and money and just put them in, if it's already complianced as a 6 seater no muppet would ever know and you'd be a thousand bucks (or whatever an engineering cert costs) better off. Technically if it's already listed as a 6 seater and you fit more seatbelts you're not breaking any rules I don't think.

Did XWs come with seatbelts fitted from factory or were they retrofitted when the law came in (not even sure what year that was)?
 
Seatbelts are for bitches anyway. Real men go through the windscreen in an accident.
 
If it's complianced as a 6 seater on the rego and 4 more seatbelts suddenly appeared who would know anyway?

Just a warning though crossflows become addictive
 
To make serious power I see only 2 viable options NA or turbo. I would forget the supercharged idea, while they look and sound cool I just don't think it will compare to a serious turbo or NA motor. Now with the turbo motor if you want serious your going to need aftermarket inlet and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust manifold shouldn't be a problem but it ain't going to be cheap (more than a grand for a 6 boost beauty). for a good one. The inlet side is a choice between efi or carb. Carb can be done but I don't know how well you can shove boost into an aftermarket carby manifold and expect it work like NA and your going to need to get someone to setup the carb. EFI inlet is going to be either full custom or heavily modified aftermarket version, but your going to have to work with someone that knows the way the inlet flows to get even flow all the way back to #6 cylinder. Your going to need a computer to run the efi which means you need to talk to your tuner and see what they like to use, then your going to have to see if it will work with a crossy.
Then you can start on the cylinder head which is going to be the most important part of the build. As Sly pointed out you can expect to sink several grand into a working head that's ported with roller rocker and a good seat cut (seat cut is probably the one of most important part of the head work)
Then theres the bottom end. You can save yourself a bit here by getting hypereutectic piston, but I am not sure if a high boost engine will need forged bottom end. You will need to prep the block for oil flowing back to the sump, speaking of a sump it will need to be a custom setup with windage trays and scrappers if you want to rev it. Depending on the sump you might need to modify the engine crossmember.
 
These are just the basics of a serious crossflow, and yes there are people that have built serious crossflows that did not do this. But making a proven better than 330hp crossflow that doesn't break every couple of times you run it takes all the "over the top" prep. Even when you do all the prep and spend the time, if your pushing the envelope you can expect breakages just like any serious hypo engine
When I talk to people about my engine and say it's going to make around the 350 hp they think it's not much, and when you consider they are making 500hp factory supercharged V8s now 350hp doesn't sound much. But when I say that the engine ran mid 11's in a full weight street car and that a 350hp crossflow is actually like a 450hp+ V8 they start to understand that a hypo 6 is more than just the numbers it produces.

Superpro make a bump stop for the front that is shorter than standard so you don't have to cut them and make you car illegal.
 
Is the rear bump stop your talking about the snubber bush above the front of the diff housing?

Sikaflex fixes everything.

Some old pics form calder id drive down run some numbers and drive home was a good car over serviced real bad but never done any real work to it a real basic engine with not bad manners that runs 11s on 91 fuel

Id like to try toytoys engine in it as it runs 2mph less in a car thats almost 400kg heaver that was on street rubber

[/url]">http://
[/url]">http://




 

Well in the non rude style a stock xflow piston is a tuff piece of kit. Can't bust em unless you rev to 7000plus and your fuel pump is a POS unit that falter's LOL

Yeah I thought cold limiter bashing it up the road was the most efficient way to warm it up?

If it's flogged its well run in for a xflow is all.

What about one of Daves 100 million BTR boxes?
Just tape a bunch of those together, and call it a built C4.
It'd weigh about the same.

I can promise you that I wont be cutting up my car, thats the only reason Im not using the coilover setup for the front that Ando put up. For the amount of bullshit Ive gone through so I dont cut a hole in the bonnet I see that there is always a way not to hack shit up, its just not the easiest way. Far from it

I hear the coathanger shaped like Australia is popular.

Oooh oooh!........... I have one of those, on the XG ute...
Works brilliant!

Yep, i did away with the antenna on my XD and replaced it with this bad boy.
Its hooked up to my Kenwood receiver/CD and works a bloody rippa!!
Here's a link  (sounds like the one wagoon is talking about)
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DNA-AXA110-AM-FM-BOAT-MARINE-DIPOLE-STEALTH-ANTENNA-SUIT-RADIO-AUDIO-RUSTPROOF-/171813598620?hash=item2800e3759c:g:m-8AAOSwrklVbnQw

Absolutely none, but there are plenty of reasons why you should:
 
* The hotter the engine, the more efficient it is (to a point, then knocking and seizing are issues). This is because heat loss to the cylinder when cold is greater than when hot. Heat is what causes expansion thus the more expansion (bang) the more torque.
 
* A hot engine atomises the fuel better, requiring less enrichment for the same power. Conversely, a cold engine needs to run rich because only a percentage of the fuel gets burnt properly. The rest goes out the exhaust.
 
* A cold engine has fuel condensing on the cylinder walls, diluting with the film of oil on them and ends up in the sump. An engine that runs cold a lot will have oil that smells like petrol. The oil thins out over time and loses its film strength.
 
* The Water pump needs a restriction to pump against (ie thermostat). Not having one causes a low pressure area in the middle of the impeller and a cavitation bubble forms, reducing the pump's efficiency and causing damage to the blades over time.
 
* A cold engine has poor emissions performance, and some functions may be disabled (ie can purge, egr). Not that anyone cares, but needs mention.
 
* A cold engine has looser clearances, so will use more oil.
 
* Cold oil has a high viscosity, and has poor splash lube capability (ie bores and camshaft)
 
So in summary, yes you should run a thermostat.

been a bit busy but got the holes drilled yesterday for the shelby mod so I have finished with the template.

 

 
So if anyone is interested in using the above template let me know. I haven't refitted the UCA yet as I'm going to replace the UCA bushes while they are out, which requires money I don't got.
 
Edit: Just noticed that it looks like the bottom small hole on the left looks out of line, it's not it's just the angle of the pic taken. I used digital verniers to check the distances between hole centres before drilling any of them

Could be a dry solder joint in the ecu or could be a bad pin socket on the ecu

okay,
 
Fuel pressure, put a gauge on it to see if it is within spec, then look at pump or the fuel reg.
Check coolant and air temp sensors - if they are out of spec for resistance then the system will inject more to protect the engine or it thinks it is cold.
 
start there.

Not all mechanics have the equipment to re-flash/tune every model/variant.
Normally the tools mechanics have for ECUs allow reading codes, testing features and resetting codes and other small things.
Full reset would be a dealer thing in a lot of cases.