Ando81

Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon

I’ve got a dual battery system in 2 of my utes and they use this dual battery isolator. They have an override button on the isolator that connects starting battery to auxiliary battery if starting battery dies on you. My xf ute has an N70 lead acid battery in the tub and I’ve used this feature to start my crossflow many times. I’ve also got the same isolator in a Px Ranger 3.2 litre diesel and my 85ah auxiliary battery has jump started it using the isolator override feature. So simple and fast, I couldn’t suggest an easier solution

Without sounding negative mate I think I’d be running some heat wrap on the cable being so close to the V8 exhaust. The inner cable has a plastic liner that could melt from the heat.

I've run heat wrap, that photo was just from dry fitting. But thanks for the advice, it's always welcome 👍

Without sounding negative mate I think I’d be running some heat wrap on the cable being so close to the V8 exhaust. The inner cable has a plastic liner that could melt from the heat.

The above photo was very helpful for me in getting my T5 conversion done, my firewall was already flogged out. I made this bracket from 3mm plate and some round stock. Hope this helps someone. The bolt holes were just placed according to where there were already holes in the firewall.
 
Here's the state of the firewall:

 
And my bracket:

 

 

I Fitted 18" snowflakes to the XD today
 

275/35 on the rear and 235/40 on the front.
 

Worked like a charm!

Outback utes had the hydratrak lsd mate. There’s not a lot of those around these days though
If you’re not concerned about if being a hydratrak then you could fit a standard Borg Warner lsd housing into it. I wheeled an xh xr6 lsd housing under my 92 xf ute for better ratio and to have lsd. It was a great upgrade

Outback utes had the hydratrak lsd mate. There’s not a lot of those around these days though
If you’re not concerned about if being a hydratrak then you could fit a standard Borg Warner lsd housing into it. I wheeled an xh xr6 lsd housing under my 92 xf ute for better ratio and to have lsd. It was a great upgrade

Fucking poor form when they rip off anyone mate, let alone a pensioner. When you don’t have a clue, go to Lew’s

Just drove 55km, the ute is running well.
TDC base timing and I'm hitting 15's+ regularly in AFRs while cruising.
Good result.
 
 Edit: 10Btdc was better, so changed it back.
Raining Lions and Rottweiler's here......
 
 
 
 

Hehe.
I forgot that I'm running the XH ecu so will set the base timing to '0' or T.D.C. tomorrow before going for a drive.
It's at 10btdc at the moment but that's base timing for an XG/ED ECU.
That should further improve things.

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Ok, this should be of help to some of you....
 
MSD module is being used just as a Spark Multiplier.
Set to ECU on MSD as the Trigger.
Zero the curve.
Old Coil - is the Trigger for MSD white wire.
Old Coil + is the 12v for the small red switched 12v wire for MSD
 
Put motor into timing mode or cut SPout wire, then set base timing to 10 degrees BTDC.
 
Reconnect SPout wire to TFI or take out of timing mode.
 
Done.
 
Have come to the conclusion after putting in a few timing curves....I am never going to be able to match the fluid dynamics of the EFI system with a static timing curve.
The two were fighting each other.
 
So if you just want better Spark and are keeping the EFI with ECU....
Just buy a normal 6A and a Blaster SS coil and MSD leads.
Save the extra money.
 
If you are going carby/ turbo/ charger or NOS, then 6AL2 all the way.
 
I was triggering direct from the PIP wire to the MSD via White/blue wire and a cut SPout wire, running a curve on MSD and timing locked at dizzy at 40 degrees BTDC.
 
I was also alerted to the fact that the EFI also uses the PIP signal and tapping into it can degrade/ lower the voltage/square wave to the injectors, causing problems.
 
Triggering from the ECU is way easier and the performance is pretty good with a mild cam. At least you know the two are matched.
I bypassed all the ignition wiring at first trying to isolate my miss.
But the ignition wiring is not the culprit.
It missed when using completely different wiring.
So then I knew It was fine to trigger from the ECU.
 
I'm sure with a MAP sensor on the MSD you could get better results, but the ECU is already doing that, so hooking into it is a no brainer.
 
Few shots of the MSD set up....
 



 
I just got mine hooked up and running properly......
 https://youtu.be/Cg0vDAUw_KA mwahahaha..... It lives!
 
 
Sounds OK for a Mild 4.0L sohc.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Haha there's always one that you can work the word "crime" into. Yeah we got heaps in Sydney... Chestnut will vouch for that

Cranebrook = Crimebrook
Mount Druitt = "the Druitt", Mounty County or just 2770
Rooty Hill = Shagger's Ridge
Minto = Minno
Lalor Park = Trailer Park
Sutherland = "The Shire"
Werrington = Derro-ton
Penrith = The Riff
Blacktown = Slacktown




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Ha ha, you’re not crazy mate. She doesn’t have it. I’m always glad to help out when I can

Looks like it doesn't have AC! 
Thought I was going crazy not being able to find it haha.
Thanks for you help mate

Close, they’re the ATC lines. Automatic transmission cooler lines. They run through the radiator to help cool the transmission. The A/C lines will be on the opposite side of the engine. Driver’s side and a belt off the big pulley on the bottom of the engine runs to the A/C compressor Its located under the Alternator.
Looking at your harmonic balancer pulley it doesn’t appear to have an A/C belt on it. Maybe your car didn’t have A/C

i am not sure if there's a thread on here, but i'll put this in here so i can find it for later 
 
just saw a post on reco XE and XD headlights on  falcon parts page on facebook
not sure if scotty is on ozfalcon, but the facebook page is here(you'll need to join to see posts i think)  XD XE XF XG XH wrecks, parts & cars for sale
 

Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working.
This is the base model GL cluster.
 
Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position.
 
Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash.
 
2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers....

2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights.....

Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround.....

Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way.
 
Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them.
Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them.
 
Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre).
After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere.
 
Disassembly.....

 
Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel....

 
Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel.....

There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from.
 
Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs....

These must be pushed down to disengage.
Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre.
Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart....

Put the plastic clear cover to one side.
 
Now you are left with this....

 
Grab the centre section with speedo like so.....

And gently remove.....

 
Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on....

 
Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you.....

 
On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down....
 
Then lift gear assembly off....

Flip it over....

 
You will most probably find one broken tooth....

Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving.
Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary.
 
Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done.
 
Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar....

 
Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again.
 
New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once.
 
NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60).

If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option.
 
Cheers.
 
Jack.
 
 
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This is a great thread mate! It's good to get the word out there to other drivers. Could not be more disgusted in the quality here and I definitely wouldn't put this on my car. You can't put a price on your life or the life if a loved one. Thanks again for the heads up

i guess a cortina is out of the question but surley it will fit in a coon engine bay ,sorry i mean a cheer engine bay🧀

OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor.
 
There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L.
From left to right are....
(Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals.
(Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket.
(Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating.

 
The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket.

This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers.
 
This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket....

 
The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket.
This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket.....

This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing.
 
Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets.
This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications.
 
Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer.
Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket.
Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing.
Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra)
Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface.
 
Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry.
The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to.
 
But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces?
 
What happens if the head is machined but not the block?
 
What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots?
 
Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit.
MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections.
 
 
This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface.


These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks.

The block is super smooth but has imperfections.
 
But not to fear.....
 
While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible.
 
I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined.......

And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block.


 
Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish.
They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces.
They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range.
 
Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing.
This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required.
 
Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications.
 
Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces.
 
This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish.....



That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old.
Installed by a 'mechanic'.
 
Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block.....



The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance.
Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route.
 
 I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness.
 
My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last.
I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild......
 
 
Happy Head Gasketing!
 
Outback Jack.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

got a rattle gun onto it. It is done up all the way nice and tight.
                                                                                                       Thank's again gent's