ZL.

Fuck pulling rocker cover off. No 1 plug out TDC on comp can't go wrong.

unroll you hose and lay out in the sun, to help dry water out when the hose is hot ,empty water trap turn on air comp then fit open air connection to hose to blow excess water out of hoses lines

It's that time again,
 
Lower trailing arms, I'm about to make me some. But i'm throwing this out there before i put money down incase it's a dumb idea. =P
 
So the bees knees rose joints will cost about 72-85 bucks each for the 5/8ths - 3/4 size respectively(im thinking 5/8ths would be strong enough?).
Was going to use 1 of them on one end of some 26mm OD with 3.2mm wall tube, This will allow about 1" of adjustment at 0.71mm increments (is that enough?).
On the other end i would mount a receiver to take the standard size bush. I was leaning towards a rubber bush but i have a spare set of nolathane here i'll probably run first.
With this, i should be able to make both lower arms for about $200 inc $50 for the bushes.
 
So you don't have to picture it in your mind i found one similar to my thoughts on the google machine, just imagine it has a receiver for a polyurethane bush at the bare end:
 

 
The other options is to keep the current style bush, in either nolathane or rubber, fabbed onto the same 26mm OD 3.2mm wall tube at each end. with a turnbuckle type thing machined up out of a piece of rod and stuck in the guts like this one here:

 
Opinions, ready, set, GO.

Check this out boys...
 

 
So I guess this settles the OHC/carby idea.Imagine the torque and HP this thing would have in a no weight race car.He would have to "drive" into the accelerator like a V8 supercar cos it would turn them skinny sidewall tyres to smoke!
 
I was so close to doing this but couldn't let my x-flow go,but there is always my sedan after all.Hmmmm? 

So your saying those 4 different places couldn't do a correct wheel alignment on your falcon and is still wearing out your front tyres?
 
That's an awesome claim, 1 place I could understand but 4?
Man there sounds like some dodgy mechanics down your way.
Did you ever go back and complain?
 
I had a dodgy wheel alignment done years ago and I took it back and they did it again for free and apoligised (I don't think it was done the first time tho)
 
This is your safety and others safety your messin with by trying to fix it yourself.
I hear your frustration if your claims are true but for the sum of $45 to $65 for a proper wheel alignment I think is cheap insurance, don't you?

No need for expensive gear mate, just a set of ramps and a couple of spanners. Yeah your eyesight is more reliable than what you give it credit for. A spirit level helps if you mount it on the wheel too. Checking tyre wear patterns is a good indicator after a bit of driving.
 
Don't worry, toe is easy too, you just need a tape measure. Measure your wheel track across the front between the wheels, then across the back. The difference is your toe-in/out.
 
Getting camber right means that the direction is not too affected by potholes, bumps, etc. It should load up in corners nicely without ripping the wheel out of your hands, and wear evenly for the kind of driving you do. Too much neg camber means it might lose steering feel in straight ahead position but it will tramline like a bitch. Those Hondas you see slammed on the ground with 5 degrees of camber would be a nightmare to drive, and dangerous. Fashion slaves indeed. Must have shares in the tyre company they use too.
 
If you want I can explain castor too. That's mainly the one that gives you steering feel and returns the steering back to centre.

Yeah 2-1/2 inches is decent... It probably got lighter because of the camber. As you lower it, the top arm goes past horizontal and starts to tip the top ball joint inwards, giving neg camber. I'll bet it rides in ruts on the road like a mongrel!
 
As ILIED says, the eccentric on the lower arm pivot is where you adjust. You can tell by looking at it if it's in all the way or not. At neutral camber, the bolt should be sitting at the bottom of the eccentric washer. Neg camber, bolt moves outwards towards wheel, moves arm with it. Pos camber, bolt moves in towards sump.
 
Yeah steering geometry is a bit of a headfuck but it's mostly in the terminology where you get lost. I've learnt the basics from my trade but taught myself by driving old clunkers and getting a feel for the adjustments. That and I'm a tightarse and won't pay some pimply-faced apprentice who only knows how to replace a strut and adjust toe-in to mess with my car and set it up exactly how I don't want it.
 
X-Falcons are great for adjustability, as just about all aspects can be changed. But like a Holley carb, this allows you more freedom to fuck it up. They go out of whack when you hit big bumps too. Mid-corner potholes are a classic, which tend to put a sideways shock load on your camber adjustment and throw it way out.
 
When hitting bumps to check my toe-in, I don't hit big ones... I like a bit of mechanical sympathy.
 
 
The camber correction kits you're referring to might actually be for E-series Falcs, as they have much less adjustability. They normally use shims in the top arm mounts to get the camber/castor adjustment and the bottom arm is fixed. The better kit eliminates the shim setup and uses an eccentric on each pivot to give wider, easier adjustment. As far as I know, X-Falcons don't have an upper arm kit, but you might be able to shim yours to get your neg camber back out to reasonable, that's if you've run out of adjustment at the bottom arm.
 
Sorry for ranting, just need to explain it properly.

i usually get the wheel alignment mob to do it straight after i stuff around with those suspension parts. usually easier to get to the shop than to stuff around trying to get those parts right without the equipment. 
usually when it feels right its still not right

I see one problem doing it that way Clint, you risk peeling an edge back if the surface under the basecoat isn't prepped well enough. All it takes is the edge of a finger print left behind and it will peel.
I agree with your method in principal, it will work. But I'm old school and will spend the time to mask up first.

I suppose u could use just the booster and leave the zj master cylinder in place if that's what your concerned about... the bigger booster.

I've replaced the original module with another one. The Smartlock system must be taught that a new module has been installed. To do this, I left the ignition lock in the "run" position. That is, the alternator light is on. The EB falcon manual says the system needs around half an hour to 'relearn'. When I shoved the new module in...the vehicle was immobilized and the warning jewel on the instrument panel flashed rapidly - more so than it normally would. When it had relearned...the flashing had ceased...took slightly less than half an hour...

get a workshop manual its not that much for the mcgregorys
ey i dont mean that in a bad way either. it just helps to gain knowledge about the car. repair manuals are a great way to do it

Or alloy rocker cover and paper gasket.
 
Cork gaskets are fkn hommmoooooooaaasssss.

decided im going to go with boge turbo's, 28-a16-a for front and 28-a12-a for rear, just need to find a supplier and some cash!

Ah ok well you can always park it in the sun on a hot day and paint it with house paint.....

Ah ok well you can always park it in the sun on a hot day and paint it with house paint.....

LOL bryan 2 pack topcoat over a acrylic base will not last long before the clear lifts off and if you where going to do this why not just use a 2 pack basecoat? the price diffrence would only be a few 100 bucks
 
good paint costs money a good 2 pack clear over base in a good brand is around $1000  in paints clear so on and if you not speding this it will not last more then 4  years at most ive done some cars on the cheap and unless there a bog and flog job dont do it it will not be worth the outcome
 
in saying that straight colors in 2 pack are on the cheap side and will also last
 
 

So dont paint it until you can afford decent paint. or do it and find out

Also remember, that a crossy won't like a large diameter freeflowing exhaust system either.
 
If you've got no backpressure, you'll lose alot of lowdown torque.

Every paint shop mixes up colour on the spot... its how its always been done. Do you think they have warehouses full of old paint drums piled up of each colour lol.