judgetread

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231282902453
 
This is the ones I used for a few years and have not had any issues with them, they are steel not aluminium, doubt you can get better.
 
edit:
you can also screw them to seal as the thread is not interference fit

Ive been using http://umrengines.com.au/
 
No complaints, work has always been what I asked for

Ive been using http://umrengines.com.au/
 
No complaints, work has always been what I asked for

Cant find enough people interested, muight look at buying thw whole lot myself. Then if anyone ever wants a set I'd sell them a pair.( at a huge profit to myself though.) The price of $176 a set is only for those that get in now.
 

Thx mate

Depends on the exact case you have . Some are 1/4 if an 80's trans known as a C5 , looks same as C4 though.
If a normal C4 they are 1/8 NPS . There is only one company I know of that does the exact fitting .
Fragola   481671BL or FRA481671BL depending on who has them and how they number their parts .
 
Failing that 1/8NPT and recut the tread to a straight thread and machine for the o'ring is how I've done many
 
Ian Boetcher at Ipswich I believe is a Fragola dealer

Gregaust...

This is how and what we use

Painted at least 100 jobs over the years using a 1.4 tip using acrylic. Solids and metallics, all works the same.

there is a metal clip. looks like wire u need to undo. Its a matter of pushing one end and its hinged on the other

Ok, finally got time to do some more on this.
 
Hooked it up to a fuel cell, and it is working well. Seems the xf digital dash lags by about 5-7 seconds, so i guess the dash gauge updates itself every 5-10 seconds, which seems normal and fine.
 
Trying to get all the stuff packed into a project box all neat and secure today, but between the nrl, cricket and v8's its hard to find the time to get it all done

So, finally got around to making a case for it all, and a few pictures.
 
Adding some standoffs for the pcb to sit on

 
pcb clipped in, I also made another board this time soldering the wires directly to the board. Easier, cheaper and less stuff to go wrong.

 
A hole on the bottom of the case, where you can adjust the trimpot. Remebering its a 90ohms difference you can set the range with it so like 0-90 or 7-97 or 8-98 etc.

 
Finished box

 
Just as a size comparison to a standard 9volt battery.

 
Overall, everything worked out pretty well, except I doubt id do a SMD component project again. Well maybe for the resistors and caps, but not the IC, they are just way to small and a pain to do.
 
I have everything to set it up done now, I just need to install the fuel cell and hook it up but that may be awhile or may not
 
 
Edit: I just did a quick sticker to wrap around it. well cause I was bored

Testimonials:
 
Unfuckit stopped that whinging Scotsman that he canna get more power. Unfuckit gave us great readings on the level of he dilithium crystals so much so I don't understand why on a fucking starship they used an antique capacitance based fuel gauge

Ok, finally got time to do some more on this.
 
Hooked it up to a fuel cell, and it is working well. Seems the xf digital dash lags by about 5-7 seconds, so i guess the dash gauge updates itself every 5-10 seconds, which seems normal and fine.
 
Trying to get all the stuff packed into a project box all neat and secure today, but between the nrl, cricket and v8's its hard to find the time to get it all done

well had some issues, couldnt get enough current through to the gauge when hooked up, or so I thought ...
 
The 1k resistor was to high compared to the cars resistance, so bridging them pads on R2 and all seems to be working atm. But dark now to do a final test but was able get full and half tank to show at the correct ohms resistance.
With many thanks to someone else for the help working that out.
 
 
Ill get it all together and pics, then maybe a new electronics project?? 8 - 6 tacho convertor, and i know there are commercially available.

So firstly I'm no electrical engineer or whatever, so if anyone see's any obvious issues, problem or possible explosive results please let me know
 
OK, so I didn't really look around so I have no idea if there is ant commercial  product out there that would suit this project already, but hey electronics had been a hobby for a fair while when I was young so I thought I have a crack at this myself, keep myself active and out of trouble. So yes it could be a waste of time if something already exists but I find it interesting to play and learn (and fail often)
 
I'm planning on adding a fuel cell to my xf ghia, getting rid of the standard tank and replacing it with a 60 or so litre fuel cell so it will suit my future plans.
 
Problem is, most aftermarket fuel cells come with either a 0-90ohm or 7-97ohm resistance fuel sender. The problem is this will not work for the xf fuel gauge as it uses a volt system 0.2 to 4.2 volts to display the fuel level. So the project begins, make a conversion from the resistance type fuel senders for a voltage based display gauge
 
 
The goals are:
* Gauge requires input of Volts: [ empty = 0.2 volts, full = 4.2 volts ]
* The sender, sends in ohms. [ empty = 0 ohms, full = 90 ohms ]
* Any power must be from the 12 volt DC system the car current uses, no external power or crap.
 
I drew up a schematic using a op-amp/comparator setup and a voltage divider. Added in a 5 volt regulator to the schematic from 12 volt to supply the currect volt and current needed for op-amp and resistor ratings.
I also adding in a variable trim pot, so within the same ratio other senders should work as well, such as 7-97ohm sender.

 
Using altium designer, converted the schematic to a pcb layout, adding in silk screens, overlays etc. Taking into account I didnt have any stuff available to make my own pcbs, the costs to buy all the stuff was not viable and I was planning on using SMD's, I designed to have them made.
 

Haa yeh, my first time working with em, normally use the old through hole. Was interesting using a jewelers loop just to see the solder joins and how they sat

Bloody nice work Judgetread
I would be whacking a patent on that shit quick smart, or at least a copy right .
I always hated soldering SMD's even with paste they are a pain in the arse.
Looking forward to your results, but from ya schematic and tests, looks to be a goer.
 
Best of Luck.
 
Jack.

Wouldnt be too hard to make something up the same but longer if needed
 
tbh it changes all the time on what we use. We just ring one or two of our suppliers and grab whatever they suggest for whatever we are doing.
 
ME, id just spray some sort of self priming rust remover that doesnt need removing then fish oil it, or even just fish oil it. When I did my xf some 89 years ago I just fish oiled inside every panel still not a spot of rust after all this time.

there is a real simple way to spray in there witha cavity hos e attached to a spray gun like, look at the hose in the picture
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BODY-DEADENER-GUN-UNDERBODY-COATING-GUN-AIR-OPERATED-WITH-CAVITY-SPRAY-TUBE-/251560971817?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9233ce29
 
the hose is basicallt blocked at the end, and has afew holes on the sides towards the end where it sprays out in a pattern all the way around. We use them all the time at work, and basically just spam the crap in there till it drips out everywhere

Bare Metal!!





I haven't got any more pics from this stage till the finish stage but it was bogged flattened. Then on went the undercoat then finished of with the black paint!  I'm hoping that Fully Steeled have more pics!

Leaving the car at the work shop!



The Dent pulled out!

Hi everyone!  When we bought this car it had I bit of damage on the rear wheel arch!  The bloke who owned the car before us got side swiped.  He bought a new front guard and purchased the front door, mirrors and chrome strip from me.  He striped it all down then painted the panels and reassemble it all.  He thought after his operation he would take it to the panel beaters to finish of the rear quarter panel.  Unfortunately he died on the operating table and never got to finish fixing his pride and joy.  When I bought the car I made a promise to his wife that he left behind, I would get the car fixed and back to its former glory.  

So I took the beast to a good friend of mine who owns a restoration work shop called Fully Steeled Restorations! https://www.facebook.com/fully.restorations?fref=ts

The damage!  I took these pics the second time I viewed the car!