XFute-1JZsoarer

A capacitor isn't a battery and nor should it be considered to be used instead of a second battery.
In fact, the only thing it may help is your lights and accessories from flickering in some instances because it actually prevents power getting to the amplifiers properly, and instead everything wired before it gets the power.
The money spent on a capacitor would be better put towards a alternator capable of running your audio properly, as your audio will be powered primarily by the alternator, while using the battery to backup any large amp loads.
The reason a cap is pretty much useless, is because it discharges itself in a matter of milliseconds, and then takes minutes to actually recharge itself properly, which it will never do while the audio is on because it'll keep discharging on big bass notes and slowly recharge till the next big bass note...
It's because of this that it'll actually create a higher load on the alternator and battery.
This pretty much makes a capacitor a expensive, useless, blingy volt meter (well the ones with a voltage display anyway).
There really is no substitution for a good alternator.
Even a second battery is only a bandaid fix for inadequate alternator current, as it too requires charging by the alternator which again means less power to the amps.
There's been mixed opinions on the value of a good capacitor for years, but you'll usually find that the only people that say they work usually are the people that sell them.

The trick is finding the lowest impedance your sub(s) can be wired down to, and then using an amp that is stable at that impedance.
Your not actually making better bass at low impedance, your just allowing the amps to flow power with the least resistance.
Class D monoblock amps are great at handling low impedance, as that is what they are primarily designed for.
Almost every class D mono will handle a 2ohm load easily, and others can go down to 1ohm (or even 0.5ohm like mine).
A little off subject...
When looking at amps to suit your setup, be wary of the usual BS sales tricks a lot of company's use. Some company's will say an amp might make 1500wrms, but fail to tell you that this rating was made at 16 or even 18 volts for a couple of seconds before it blew up, not at the 13.8v most charging systems make.
And always look at the fusing for the amp to get a good idea of what power it'll really make, a 2500wrms amp won't make that power with 60A fuse, the rule of thumb is 10A to 100wrms (though some company's now use larger fuses to fool consumers too these days).
Any decent amp will come with a "birth sheet" that will show the power it makes at different voltages and impedances).
But none of it will matter if your running an inadequate charging system, big power audio means big power charging systems, this is a trap most beginners fall into (I did too).
A 100 amp alternator and a normal battery will not support 1000wrms setup, and the rest of the vehicles ancillaries.
It's all a balancing act with a lot of ways to screw up, but if you know about it, you can put together a decent setup that won't cook/blow itself, or leave you stranded with a busted alternator/battery.
Hope this helps a bit, as I have been in this same boat myself.

The trick is finding the lowest impedance your sub(s) can be wired down to, and then using an amp that is stable at that impedance.
Your not actually making better bass at low impedance, your just allowing the amps to flow power with the least resistance.
Class D monoblock amps are great at handling low impedance, as that is what they are primarily designed for.
Almost every class D mono will handle a 2ohm load easily, and others can go down to 1ohm (or even 0.5ohm like mine).
A little off subject...
When looking at amps to suit your setup, be wary of the usual BS sales tricks a lot of company's use. Some company's will say an amp might make 1500wrms, but fail to tell you that this rating was made at 16 or even 18 volts for a couple of seconds before it blew up, not at the 13.8v most charging systems make.
And always look at the fusing for the amp to get a good idea of what power it'll really make, a 2500wrms amp won't make that power with 60A fuse, the rule of thumb is 10A to 100wrms (though some company's now use larger fuses to fool consumers too these days).
Any decent amp will come with a "birth sheet" that will show the power it makes at different voltages and impedances).
But none of it will matter if your running an inadequate charging system, big power audio means big power charging systems, this is a trap most beginners fall into (I did too).
A 100 amp alternator and a normal battery will not support 1000wrms setup, and the rest of the vehicles ancillaries.
It's all a balancing act with a lot of ways to screw up, but if you know about it, you can put together a decent setup that won't cook/blow itself, or leave you stranded with a busted alternator/battery.
Hope this helps a bit, as I have been in this same boat myself.

Fair enough, you know what your doing better than I anyway.
Was just a thought, as it looks like there's a lot of things to go wrong with all those hoses, fittings and pumps.
But the digital gauge throws a spanner in the works anyway...
Hope it works alright bud.

This is what it should look like when dun propreley electrical cablez n fuels hozes n stuff r all same same. Looks good huh?!

Mounting clips.
You can get these at REPCO, super cheap, Auto 1 etc etc 
made by Narva. Pipe/cable support clamps
part number 56480
 
Use your steel tube for the fuel feed and buy EFI hose for the return line.
Mount them with the above clips.
they look like 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-PIPE-CABLE-SUPPORT-CLAMPS-10mm-STEEL-P-CLAMP-UV-RUBBER-COVER-56480-x10-/291220428772?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ce1717e4&_uhb=1

Thanks guys, some great info there.
I was looking for one of those Angular Torque Gauges at the local auto shops, but had no such luck there. So I might just grab the scribe and protractor and mark my 120 degree markings that way, as I don't want to wait for another week to get one sent from eBay (the joys of living in rural areas).
As I stated, I'm using a brand new ProTorque TTY headbolts set with a Permaseal Multi Layer Steel (MLS) headgasket, the info sheet that comes with the gasket says 30Nm + 120 degrees, so I'll use their settings as I'm sure I've seen other MLS gaskets come with those exact same directions.
I just liked the idea of doing the 3 stage torque method as I have a good quality Torque wrench, but no angle gauge.
But if you experienced fellas say to use the torque + degree method, that's the way I'll go about it.
That's the info I was looking for, so thanks heaps for the helpful responses.

You can't beat experience here mate. Do what revhead said I reckon, he's older than me and done shitloads more than me so he is the guru

If no-one has mentioned it already, get one of these chaps for $25-$30. Makes getting angular torque simpler and more repeatable. I've done a few E-series heads and guesstimated what 90° looks like with an ordinary protractor and things have worked out fine though.
 

 
One of these guys will eliminate the guesswork and get the job done properly. Whilst I'm not looking forward to my next scheduled head gasket change....I'm looking forward to using one of these..

in my line of work ive done hundreds if not thousands of e series head gaskets etc ,ive found the 90 degree turn after initial, torque setting is the only way, also buy new head bolts ,don't be a tight arse as ive seen old ones shatter or snap clean off

Go by the book, or instructions in aftermarket gear.
 
Though that said, I've only ever bolted on one head (not a ford one), and that was done via the following method.
 
-Do all head bolts hand tight (I did this in 2 passes, also, if there is a sequence to follow, follow it)
-Torque headbolts up to specified nm
-Mark all headbolts with a paint marker or such (all the markings should be identical, ie: pointing 12 o clock
-Torque all headbolts an additional 90 degrees CW in sequence (use the dots as a reference, they should all line up once done
-Torque all headbolts a further 90 degrees CW in sequence
 
So far the HG seems to be ok
 
Make sure you take your time, follow the torquing sequence, and have a fairly accurate torque wrench

if they are standard bolts use the torque to yeild method, more accurate for that application

Are you using torque to yield bolts or a ARP or such replacement? That would dictate what you do.I'd prob suggest engine shops might use studs aswell,well I would
 
Personally I would use a torque setting though

I was taught that the degrees method is more accurate than nm.
 
And I'd be more inclined to use the method that the head gasket instructions say.

Thanks fellas. Remember you will only get as much out of it as you put into it. Feel free to upload pics and contribute as much as possible.

Here ya go mate, from the Workshop manual.......

 

 
 
Sorry theres no colour pictures.... just be aware there are 2 control assemblies on that second pic.
 
Jack.

I'll check my setup tomorrow for you, am pretty sure it's the standard EFI return line.

Thanks Ando, I should be all good on the torque wrench front, I've got a new Kinchrome wrench to use for the job, and I'm using the VHT copper gasket sealant for the gasket.
Finally got around to stripping the old head today, which was pretty easy considering all the exhaust and intake bolts were loose, even had one missing at the back of the intake!
I ran out of time before I started cracking the headbolts, so I'm a little worried as to what I'm gonna find under the old head...
The whole thing is confusing, as the motor come out of a 168,000km 95 XG, the inside of the head looks to be in fantastic condition, but everything else looks grubby.
Fingers crossed I'm not in for any more rude surprises tomorrow arvo when I pull the head off, but at least now I can go through the engine bay wiring/hoses/gaskets and bring them back up to scratch without too much hassle.

And another word of advice Jay, just make sure your bloody torque wrench is a proven tool that works correctly. I recently did my crossflow head gasket where I coated the new gasket with Hylomar blue and was pulling the studs down and the wrench didn't work and I snapped a head bolt

Lol, sorry for the mis-leading thread title.
If it helps any, I am considering a 50-100hp shot of NOS a little further down the track, as I have a 1/8th strip right behind our property to go play on.
I've been reading up all morning about other similar setups as mine (couldn't get onto the OzFalcon site all morning), it looks like valve/piston clearance shouldn't be an issue, and apparantly I can use a couple of washers to get a couple more mm adjustment with the tensioner if need be.
So it looks like an adjustable timing gear might be all that's needed to dial the cam in a bit better, but that doesn't appear to be a compulsory mod either.
Any $$$ I can save here will go towards a decent exhaust/extractors, so I might just put it all together and fire it up and hopefully she will be all good.
Cam should be a good match with the 5spd conversion and 3.27 final ratio

Do keep us posted cos I think theres a few who would like to know the outcome.
 
P.S Did anyone else think this thread was going to be about fitting NOS to his engine

I thought as much, thanks for the advice bud.
Permaseal recommend only using their MLS gasket with the head decked no more than 30thou, as the gasket is also 30thou thinner than a standard graphite gasket.
So at 20thou decked (that i know has been done, could have been milled before that too I guess) it's gonna be close...
I also have a new graphite gasket that I was going to put on with the standard head, so if I can't get away with the MLS, I'll just chuck that one on instead.
I read (on Fordmods) that some others have taken more off their 4L heads and run the MLS with different results, some claim that it still worked fine, others say that they got timing chain rattle.
Fortunately I'm not in any real hurry, so I'll just keeping checking my tolerances as I go.
 
Anyway, many thanks to you guys for the info, looking forwards to finally getting it all together.
I'll keep you guys posted on how I go with it.
Cheers.
Jay

ACL Hylomar spray is what we use on some Diesels that had common head gasket woes and can have up to 22:1 compression. Great stuff if you ask me.

And been the only baby around here I'd suggest checking piston to valve clearance and making sure the cam is dialed in spot on thanks to the decked head thinner gasket and higher lift camshaft making cam timing critical.
 
P.S I have seen people spray there gaskets with silver frost too