clevocortina

I would suggest to use a Claybar, or Clay towel, to decontaminate the paintwork first.

DA polishers are awesome for swirl marks and are pretty forgiving for a rookie as opposed to a normal rotary buff. I still use a rotary buff for cutting but a DA for finishing. The big foot 21  one is what i've used but they are filthy expensive. There are plenty of others around that are more affordable, cant say if they do as good a job but yeah for swirl marks they cant be beat.  

Mine in SLY250

 

if there massive rub thru's id suggest it might need more panel beating if just a few small ones, find a spray can of primer in the same brand of the material your using.
 
they all have rub thru spot primer. basically you block the job. spray the rub thrus then finish sand to get it ready to paint. if needed re apply on any rub thru's.
 
then light quick skiff with 800 dry just to make it feel smooth before you start painting. it is all designed to stick to each other and formulated to not fry etc.

if there massive rub thru's id suggest it might need more panel beating if just a few small ones, find a spray can of primer in the same brand of the material your using.
 
they all have rub thru spot primer. basically you block the job. spray the rub thrus then finish sand to get it ready to paint. if needed re apply on any rub thru's.
 
then light quick skiff with 800 dry just to make it feel smooth before you start painting. it is all designed to stick to each other and formulated to not fry etc.

Hello everybody,
                           I have just totally restored my au falcon cab chassis into a  series 2  ghia I bought the entire car as a donor car  and have put the complete interior into it ihave updated the front ent as well and re-sprayed it as well in metalic grey, I have used all the electronics from the donor car inside the cabin but i didn,t use the engine wiring looms  apparaenty i should have done that, everything plugged together ok so i wasn't too worried but from what I have been told by others the pinouts are not all the same I am a builder the mechanical side was easy but the electronics are way mor perplexing and really stressing me out  is anyone able to advise how th sort this out without dismantling the whole car again maybe with some bypass wiring or a chip or something....... Thanks regards Steve

Simply because I am passionate about the oiling systems of Ford engines and I don't want people to f..k it up. 
 
Most 'OTHER BRAND' 'RACE' engines use a HV pump - because they need them.  Ford's don't. 
 
100 passes down the 1/4 at 13 seconds equals about 21 minutes total running time.  How much of that is spent at any decent RPM?  Say 2/3rds that's 7 minutes.  Congratulations you have just built an engine that does about 2 skids or about 3 heats of speedway.  Gee that's tough.  Please. 
 
Yeah I get passionate when people fit a component that will have an adverse effect on their engine.  I thought that was the idea of these forums - to help and offer advice.  That's what the OP asked for.  Funny thing is he has changed the pump. 
 
If you have a couple of minutes spare have a look at Jason Earl's 383AXE burnout car at powercruise $100,000 burnout comp. First aspo car in that comp.  That clevo has a big sump and sits on 8300rpm for 3 minutes at a time.  Done it for years - Guess what pump he runs?  Standard volume - modified as I do them. 
 
But like I said  - you do what you want. 

Mate nothing average with your engine setup. Granted it's not 900hp but that engine sounds like it would be fun and not be a pain in the arse that a more powerful setup brings. The comment I made about about the high volume pump weren't aimed at anyone, they are just my thoughts on the topic.
 
Regarding the test no I didnt track oil through the house cause Im still alive. But I did have to change clothes and wash down in the yard before I was allowed into the house haha.

Hey mate good choice with going with paint stripper by far the best way.
 
i usually use thinners and scotchy to clean the panel after ive scraped it all off, remember to lay it on thick and leave it on for a good couple hours, let it do the work.

Hey mate good choice with going with paint stripper by far the best way.
 
i usually use thinners and scotchy to clean the panel after ive scraped it all off, remember to lay it on thick and leave it on for a good couple hours, let it do the work.

I have been experimenting stripping my xe back I found the best result using GPI stripper and hitting it with the high pressure wash. Have to repeat some parts 3 times. I then wash it down with KBS MARINE CLEAN AND etch it with KBS RUST BLAST
 
Dale

They may have changed later on,but the shockwave not adhering was a PPG Primer issue,and as I said in the shop I was in PPG were supplying the materials for each repaint.

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.
 
Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.
 
The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,
 
Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.
 
If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.
 
You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.
 
Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.
 
The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,
 
Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.
 
If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.
 
You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.
 
Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.
 
The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,
 
Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.
 
If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.
 
You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.
 
Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.
 
The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,
 
Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.
 
If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.
 
You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Nice project mate. cant wait to see pics and see more detail.

That's big HP to chase if this is your first blown deal.  You will spend a shit load on parts and tuning and if you are happy to do that, then more power to you.
 
The Haltech Platinum sport 1000 is a great ecu - but they don't come cheap and neither does the tuning experience required.  If you have some efi tuning experience via laptop then you might be able to get on top of the tune for that power level but remember engine failure is only a missed click away and burnt pistons become expensive (trust me - I know from recent experience).
 
We are using that same ecu on the Honda VTEC mini and I have found them to be very tuneable.  You pay for all the add on's like the O2 sensor stuff but they are worth it.  Haltech also are happy to give you 'base' tunes for certain engines and they are not that bad at all.  But I doubt they would have something even close to where you are aiming for. 
 
To give you an idea on tuning prices - up here in Cairns $2000 gets you a decent dyno tune - although you being in Brisbane you will have more choice and more competition. 
 
600-700hp at the wheels is serious power as you will be making a mountain of torque as well in the turbo application.  Allowing for say 12% drive train loss through the manual that is 784hp at the crank.  That is serious mumbo in anyone's language and I would be very scared of a cast flywheel and even a sports clutch with that much power and torque.
 
Gavin's 450rwhp Turbo KE Corrolla that I've done a bit of work on runs a Quarter Master clutch and drive plate and even it is a little scary.  It lifted the front wheels grabbing 3rd in Mackay recently so we are going auto in an attempt to make it more driveable.   Ok its a light car but power to weight you would be close to the same and the thought of a E series lifting wheels at speed is just plain insane.
 
I think you should listen to nos2's advice and speak to the experts as you will no doubt end up paying twice for stuff otherwise.  Those tunnel vision fellas know their stuff - you will pay for that knowledge - but you are only paying for it once.  Achieving that power level own you own or even paying someone who 'might' know will end in tears.   

I meant for the little burnout you do to heat up the tyres before you head down the strip Rob.  I know your love of burnouts bahaha. 
 
You could be like victor.  man he loves to just lay it down. 

This, the safe way to do it. Would rather have control of the fronts. Just make sure you switch it off, hate to be stopping from 120+ using fronts only :-/

Here's an idea i thought about trying when i was building Goldie's fuel system.
Originally i was gonna get some of the boot floor cut out and replace it with a fuel
tank from a EF/EL station wagon, that way i kept the spare wheel well and got to run 
the EFI pump. I never ended up going that way i just now use a Bosch 044 external pump
but food for thought.

Hey man I know I'm late with my response. But it wont fit.
 
I once tried to fit my ZJ fairlane tank into my xd sedan and it wouldn't go. just missed out by an inch or so there a bit longer and the neck wont fit.

Dizzy driven off the front of the cam? Picture of a 4.6l V8 done like it on the net somewhere. Or make up a belt driven dizzy.
 
Do it man, it'll be cool.

I just wanted a little touch

Dominator make awesome convertors.Will drive fine but don't expect it to work like a stock unit.