SLO247

Xe has greyouts.

Nah. I think that started part way through XE.

With the relays above the handbrake lever, behind the trim.
 
Could be the switch too, they get funny in XD/E. If it works in certain positions probably the switch. If it doesn't work at all I'd say the flasher relay.

I'd have them dipped or blasted.
 
Fuck painting over decades old chrome.

250KPA, 36 PSI. E Series was around that for a non XR 4.0 from memory.
 
The fuel returns through the reg, full pressure to the rail.

I have the genuine manual if you want me to have a look?

Finally had a chance to grab the unimig on sale this morning. $459. Also came with a reg for argon which I didn't expect.
 
Works much nicer than the Ozito one and seems much nicer quality. Also weighs just over 30kg. I'm very happy especially for that price.

if you want to try another AFM I have a spare one if you want to check if its that....

Fuel pressure reg may be on it's way out and letting the fuel rail drain when it sits, try flicking the key on and aff a few times to prime the fuel system and see if it starts straight away

Should be interesting to see the different intake combo results.

Cylinder head all done and cc'd. I now have 9.5:1 compression. Its is right up there for boost but there is a bit of overlap in the camshaft so it will be fine with low (7psi) boost and a good tune.
 

 
 
Bit of bling - yella terra platinum non-adjustables. All set up for nice preload on the lifters.
 

 
And fitted up with the Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold - WHY - well there is a bit more R&D to do on the blower kits to ensure their reliability. I am cool with that as there is more than what meets the eyes when you start to develop a commercial product. It has to work and work well - bit different if you are just doing it for yourself.
 
Good news is that this puts us back to plan A. The MSC will go through various 2 barrel carb combinations and then four barrel with the results documented in the thread. Really keen to hear this thing live.

Using the Cigweld stuff, have all along.
 
I'll grab a uniweld next time I go past.
 
I can get argoshield light in an E bottle for about $90 a year including one refill. I'll try the new one gasless first otherwise that's what I'll do.

https://adelaidetools.com.au/welding/mig-welders/unimig-180-amp-mig-welder-kmm180.html

Go dump it in his front yard.

That Unimig is the one I have and i find it a pretty good welder, problem is it requires 15Amp plug. And that is going to be your biggest problem is requiring a 10Amp machine. I have a mate that bought the cigweld 130 and he was welding 10mm plate to galvanised steel using gasless and it did it fine, mind you he is a boily and know how to weld a bit. For what you want the 130 cigweld will be fine but if you can get the 150 cigweld for around the same price go that way as bigger is always better. Just make sure you confirm any welder your looking at is 10Amp plug.
In regards to these little welders it's not so much the duty cycle that matters it's the setting the machine works well with, the less setting you have to choose from on a machine the less chance you will have to make a good weld. I have found this on my Unimig as I just can't seem to find a good setup on a couple of the setting, but since the machine has 6 settings I can usually get one close enough to what I need.

Uni migs are good...legit. I use and have a BOC full size 275amp mig plant and it's a ball tearer. Never over stress it cos its too big but only costs like $1200-$1300. Last for ever when you don't use 1/4 of what they can do. 

Ring a few workshops and price a rebuild. I remember reading its about half the price of an auto, a few years back people were paying around a grand for exchange rebuilt T5s.

hhmm redhead,lol

Yeah I'd say its just getting worse. You could have it fixed up by a place like injectronics or even try reflowing all the joints yourself.
 
The other thing to do is join the two wires for the starter circuit behind the BEM to bypass it. Can't remember which ones, some googling should find out.

Set the stoppers so that the bonnet is sitting flush with the guards without the catch. Once you've got that sorted put the catch back on and set it with just a touch of pre load on it. Too much and it'll be a bitch to open and you'll have to slam it shut. Too little and your bonnet will continue bouncing at speed. It also pops open easier with a bit of load on it.

The catch can be moved up and down on its bracket from memory. Look at it from the front through the radiator support.

The catch can be moved up and down on its bracket from memory. Look at it from the front through the radiator support.

If it's south east queensland you can transport them to a depot, I will pick them up for you and drop them off to the wheel place. Then pick up when done and send back to you, should work out a lot cheaper that way if sending depot to depot. Just a thought

Thought I would bring this thread backup with an update on my crappy wagon. I have just gone through the pain of fitting generic brand extractors and a secondhand exhaust to my wagon (to see my pain go here http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4989-extractor-install-issue-please-help/ )  The details of the exhaust are piece of crap satan made extractor with 2 1/4 inch outlet into 2 1/4 mid section with 1 lukey muffler. I made a reducer so out of the back of the muffler it reduces into the original 2 inch over the diff tail pipe section.
So after I got it all sorted I took the car out for a test run. I went back to the farmers driveway for a speed test. 0-160 happened over 400m's earlier than before when I had the standard exhaust on. I also felt a much greater response to part throttle acceleration. The car responds to the push of the accelerator now and I can feel it pulling in any gear at either lower or higher rpm. I still don't have a tacho so I can't say what rpm is best but to be honest it's probably a good thing I don't have the tacho as I drive more by feel and sound. I can say without a shadow of a doubt this change has made a huge difference to the car in both all out performance and part throttle performance.

Xe has greyouts.