xm-221

I'll ask Tucker, it was from one of his wrecks.
 
Edit: NC

Cav, the diff I've got in Heather is from an NC/NL Fairlane and is 3.27:1. It has the wider lower control arm bush on the diff.

just a quick one, read that much info lately its all becoming a blur
 
initially i thought id use an ed diff for the ease of the handbrake system to fit into my zk, they are also semi hard to find in lsd and have decided im going to fit an aussie LOKKA
 
so are all eb2 ed open diffs still a 28 spline 4 pin ?
 
then i also noticed the brakes are bigger on the ef el diffs and easier to find and was considering changing the model
 
what is involved in using the ef el hand brake system?
 
glenn has sourced me a steel LWB tail shaft from an xg already so thanks again mate
 
do both ed and ef have the different selectable upper trailing arm mounts? which one do you use on a superlow car?

90m2 truck shed would be mint

They have splines to stop the pin vibrating out, the circlip is there as a secondary safety measure in case the pin does come out.

They have splines to stop the pin vibrating out, the circlip is there as a secondary safety measure in case the pin does come out.

Just do it Noddy, I'm having a crack for the first time in 3 weeks myself mate.
Love the conversion in the ute mate, I'll have to build myself a V8 one day.

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Legendary Gav, this is what makes Ozfalcon the place to be, awesome diagrams to make our lives easier

This might get you started:
 

 

 

 

 
Are you installing the entire dash assembly? A lot of the harness is integral with the dash assembly. This fact results in none of the wiring harness being visible on the engine side of the bulkhead - unlike XFs or E-series cars. When I did mine...I installed the entire XG dash assy...makes life ship-loads easier! The ECU side of the harness (passenger side can be fed from the engine bay into the cabin through a hole in the bulkhead. With EST equipped XFs...the hole is bigger and you can feed the ECU connector through it. On earlier vehicles it is quite a bit smaller and life will become harder for you. On the drivers side, the engine bay harness feeds through another hole in the bulkhead where a number of connectors mesh with the dash assy loom. You really need the dash wiring in place. Easier, as I mentioned earlier if you've got the XG dash assy - fits straight into XFs with no particular issues - it's general format is common with the XF. The XG loom passes the passenger side of the engine where it services engine sensors, injectors (ie. the engine harness), aircon, LH headlight/indicators. Elements of it pass under the radiator support panel where it joins the driver's side of the loom. The drivers side services the alternator, RH headlight, relay block amongst other things.

I never bubble wrap anything without boxing it up as well, never trust Aus Post or couriers.

Make sure there are plates/washers under the floor pan that the bolts go through, ( if you need to drill new holes.)
If not, during a collision, the seat will tear out of the floor. Just a thought.

Ford_Man.. That description of what you have is so mixed up it hurts me to read it .
 
Transgo rebuild kit?  Transgo make shift kits for valvebody's . not rebuild parts .
 
Manual Valve Body?? A Transgo stage 3 kit maybe to convert to manual?? Or maybe reading further on I think you have parts from PTC? One of their MVB? If so good choice
 
R series billet servo?? No such thing. R servo is a factory servo on a lot of Clevo C4's . A very good servo all the same . The billet servo are either based on a H servo  ( P.A or TCI ) or the most popular being the Sonnax brand with the purple cover being based on a C servo .
 
4 pinion planet + good . likely from PTC . Very nice piece .
 
HiTuff 4340? Input shafts are either Hituf or 4340, 2 different types .
 
6 clutch fwd moly hub?? The Chrome moly hub from PTC is a nice piece . The hub is one piece , the 6 clutches is separate really , usually the 6 clutch is for the high/reverse though I do put 6 clutches in the forward in a trans behind a motor making a lot of torque . For interest I have tried 5 forward clutches  with 600+ RWHP and no sign of any slip
 
Not picking here , just trying to help you understand what you have
 
Ah yes the old C10 thing again lol . Good to see you mention Gassed250   No such thing. They are all C4 , C10 is a slang term for a Clevo Pan fill trans
 
Now to the original question. A C4 built right will laugh at 500 HP. A C6 is a good choice also. The FMX will work too, prob not the wisest choice but if you had FMX already it can work ok .

XG lock assembly is a one off. E-series and XH had a a narrower column. The Tibbe barrels are all interchangeable, but you need to start with an XG assembly.

Some of the new types of paper are crap for doing windows now, if your'e in a country town you'll find some of the smaller newspapers use a lower quality paper and I find them the best for cleaning glass.

Some of the new types of paper are crap for doing windows now, if your'e in a country town you'll find some of the smaller newspapers use a lower quality paper and I find them the best for cleaning glass.

it doesn"t have to look pretty, just smother it in underseal when you're done patching and throw some dirt at it... you'll forget it's there.

Pedal box, clutch cable and clutch cable bracket for the firewall, gearbox, spigot bearing for the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch and you're ready to go.
 
Abridged version.
 
Starter motor out.
Exhaust off (V8 with crossover pipes or if your pipes are in the way of the box coming out).
Unplug wiring for speedo drive.
Take the auto out.
Take flexplate off.
Install the flywheel, pressure plate/clutch assy.
Spigot bearing goes in the hole in the back of the crank.
Install single rail, don't forget to swap your old speedo sender in.
You can either take the dash out and swap pedal boxes or just swap the clutch pedal in.
Attach the clutch cable.
Start car and test clutch throw out.
If it's all good drive the tits off it asap
 
I've probably forgotten something along the way, feel free to add to this ladies and gents.