steve mcqueen

It was mentioned in the thread to get one going to help people with ideas and precautions
 
Just add as required. Mods of not suitable please remove.
 
Few points.
 
Be wary at car shows on your way home those with the rare ones.
 
Check your google street view of your house
 
Car Trackers
 
movement sensing CCTV with SMS alerts etc,
 
CCTV cameras with proper hd and ups back up incase they drop power to the house
 
Lots of ir illuminators as they are great deterents
 
movement sensing lights,
 
solar/battery back up movement sensing lights.
 
This is a super basic system and links. Just a small deterant and about it. Not hd or facial recognition. Super simple install.
 
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/301260735051?nav=SEARCH
 
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/261587506661?nav=SEARCH
 
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/221688042931?nav=SEARCH
 
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/390975423209?nav=SEARCH
 
Basic tracker
 
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/251617852291?nav=SEARCH
 
Heaps of options buying overseas and cheaper. Just search on the usual sites for cheaper

Slightly different tune and no speed limiter I reckon. Catch code will be different and part number will be a 94DT rather than 94DA to signify the Tickford shizzle.
 
Waste of money though honestly, you won't notice a difference. Done it all before.

As long as its an EF XR6 one and to suit your trans (auto/manual) then yes, straight in.
 
You won't notice a difference though.

Little bit of an idea about how i do these bell housing conversions.

 
First thing i do is skim the nose cone of the gearbox down to suit the bell housing and while i have it off i change the front bearing and seal.
 
Second, i reassemble the gearbox and put it onto the bell housing than transfer punch the hole locations. A transfer punch is a bit of high tensile steel that is machine accurate size to the hole with a point machined centrally on the leading end, just like a centre punch.
 
Third, i take it to the milling machine and using a slot drill, plunge a 25mm hole centrally on the 2 lower positions, leaving a slight shoulder on the bores.
 
Fourth, I grind a weld prep around the edge of the 25mm holes then i ut some pieces of 25mm diameter bright mild steel and  place it into the holes. I leave 1-2mm proud of the surface.
 
Fifth, I put the bell housing on a 4 ring lpg burner and walk away for about 45 minutes.
 
Sixth, I use a process called metal spray welding to bone the slugs in place. Metal spray welding uses an oxy acetylene set with a special ($4000 special) gun that has a hopper arrangement on it to feed a nickel based weld powder directly into the oxy flame.
 
Seventh, Leave the bell housing on the burner for another 45 minutes, but turn the outer ring off. This is what's called a post heat and slowly lets the bell housing cool off.
 
Eighth, once cooled i take it to the mill and bolt it engine side down onto the bed. I then machine the 2 slugs and any weld protruding above the face down level with the gear box mounting face.
 
Deburr and bolt together. I've done 8 conversions this way, and am yet to have one fail. Your process is excellent for a home based job Gerg, this is just they way i like to do them. Having access to the expensive gear makes it nice too.
 
On which bell housing to use, the bell housing i the picture is a 78DA part number. So i am guessing XD-E single rail housing. It needed the 2 extra lugs in the bottom. But i have done a couple at work where the bell housing actually extended far enough below that edge to get the bolts in no worries, just wish i had bothered to note the casting numbers at the time.
 
Just thought i would throw another option out there for all to see.

My upholsterer supplied the carpet for Project Goldie,
Its something that you would find in late model cars of today.
It's glued down and follows the contours of my floor so well.
Was a little more costly but looks and feels so good
and its what i wanted so didn't mind forking out for it.
Contact an upholsterer and speak with them,
food for thought.

All I've ever seen in the back window of them that looks factory has been a dealership sticker.
 
Grafix Unlimited has a heap of retro styled accurate Ford dealership stickers.

They're good for keeping paperwork from flying away...........
 
Jack.

You can get a top quality job using even the most basic brands of paints these days.
I used Protec for years and managed to get a great finish colour sanding with 800, 1500 and 2000 respectively. I used Juice polish and wax to get this kind of finish on an XD ESP Ghia.
 

One of these.??
 

I just did this, massive job!
First, remove the rear window. Take it right out.
Next youve gotta try and peel the headlining back away from the rear window. Its probably gonna be glued along the rear edge, so you have to try and break the adhesive without breaking the headlining. Also completely remove your interior light.
It might also help to remove your rear vent window rubbers, and c pillar trims just so you can peel the headlining back far enough.
Once the headlining is back, if you reach up and feel along the top of the rear window you will feel 4 threads with nuts on poking through into the cab. Undo these nuts and the top trim will be loose. The same applies for the side plastics, there are two threads on each one that poke through into the cabin.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!

Its so common from the factory NZ, its bloody wrong. 

Thats typicle tho, "blame the product" and not the painter who put it on.
Nothing wrong with PPG products, its used very widely in the smash repair 
industry both here and the states.
Did he say what brand they use now that 'blows on like glass'?
 
How are they gonna re do it?
If they used PPG the first time then say gonna use Spies Hecker this time
that could create more issues as the paints are different again to each other.
They really gonna have to remove 90% of the base coat and clear to go again.
 
Perhaps they gonna rub it flat and buff it to shine?
or
Rub it flat then apply another PPG base coat and clear?
Id be checking every 3 days on progress to see 'where abouts it at'
If you see it rubbed back again then i hope all will be well this time round.

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint.
 
Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that.
 
The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth,
 
Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust.
 
If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho.
 
You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

You got a spare 20k have you?
Dont email these people, that says "your not fair dinkum"
Take a day, drive to half a dozen smash repairs across sydney and its west
introduce yourself and say "whats it gonna cost for a full bare metal respray"
 
Tell em what you want, what colour, what work you want done and watch the dollar signs 
roll. Some places might say 'they not interested' but some might say 
'yeah mate we could do it'.
 
How much work are you gonna put in to it?
Do you want them to 'remove and replace' the parts?
You want the engine bay and door jams painted?
 
Better make a list now and tell em what you want.
so everybody is on the same page when you get
your quotes in.
 
Alot of us, including me would love to know how much
its gonna cost you. 

Well I had a win today , went down and spoke to the business owner and he didn't argue at all . Just said they would re do it . They must have known it would be back , any tradesman would know they did a shit job . I guess I'll see how it looks in a couple more weeks

Should have grabbed the vins they came out of. Ford used to decode over the phone for free but I heard they stopped doing it. I had to get the code for a Hyundai once and it cost the customer $50 for a phone call.

A booth would be worth every dollar. When I sprayed mine in my garage the biggest problem was over spray. Won't be a problem in a booth.

Gloss black is the hardest colour to keep nice. You will see every mark in it, washing it will we a nightmare. Get a swirl and you will have to detail the whole panel. Black looks the best when done right but that includes all the care as well. And yes any panel imperfection will stick out like dogs balls

Exhaust shop do that in 30 minutes, or if ya changing shit, do it later. Half arsed jobs always come back and bite ya on the arse.
 
Jack.

You got a spare 20k have you?
Dont email these people, that says "your not fair dinkum"
Take a day, drive to half a dozen smash repairs across sydney and its west
introduce yourself and say "whats it gonna cost for a full bare metal respray"
 
Tell em what you want, what colour, what work you want done and watch the dollar signs 
roll. Some places might say 'they not interested' but some might say 
'yeah mate we could do it'.
 
How much work are you gonna put in to it?
Do you want them to 'remove and replace' the parts?
You want the engine bay and door jams painted?
 
Better make a list now and tell em what you want.
so everybody is on the same page when you get
your quotes in.
 
Alot of us, including me would love to know how much
its gonna cost you. 

Really well said here. Take pics or video as you go along so you have a reference to go back to when your putting it back together.
You'll be fine, just go easy and take your time.

Its not as bad as every1 thinks main thing is take your time pulling the dash out and putting back in so you make sure you get all the bolts so you don't break any of the dash as they are getting harder to find in gc so they don't rattle 

You got a spare 20k have you?
Dont email these people, that says "your not fair dinkum"
Take a day, drive to half a dozen smash repairs across sydney and its west
introduce yourself and say "whats it gonna cost for a full bare metal respray"
 
Tell em what you want, what colour, what work you want done and watch the dollar signs 
roll. Some places might say 'they not interested' but some might say 
'yeah mate we could do it'.
 
How much work are you gonna put in to it?
Do you want them to 'remove and replace' the parts?
You want the engine bay and door jams painted?
 
Better make a list now and tell em what you want.
so everybody is on the same page when you get
your quotes in.
 
Alot of us, including me would love to know how much
its gonna cost you. 

If you're going to paint plastic/flexible parts, use acrylic paint or an additive to 2K that will make it flexible.