SirkWhyXF

My recomendation for towing is not wrecking your daily driver..or your back..
hire a truck with a tailgate lift, do it in one trip instead of 7(saving fuel for tightass reasons)
and return the truck with the knowledge your car hasnt suffered at all.
 
would depend where you are going, but i'd do that even if i had to drive 100km just to get a truck.

Fitted new slotted DBA rotor's and pad's to stock calipers on my XF ute and it goe's 11.9 116mph in the qtr and if I stand on the brakes it looses oil pressure. How much more do you need ?
 
On the coil overs I use Viking double adjustable coil overs front and rear. On Drag Challenge they were a god send (not that god is real just a figure of speech) in that we could dial in settings to suit drag or road in less than 30secs front and rear. Car felt as good @ 100kph around bends as it did @ 190kph in the top end of the track.
 
No need for fancy brakes unless you plan on doing lot's track laps. 

paint the tail pipe black please ... and maybe the axel hubs?

Yesterday I went and purchased 2 more tyres the same as the fronts (175/50R15s) to replace the oversized 195/50s that were on the rear and scrubbing my guards. 
 
Also turns out my wheels are Citroen alloys, not Saab. Cool 
 
so I'm pretty happy with the way she's sitting now. just need the sway bar to fix this vibration. 


 

 

 

Good Vibrations you reckon?
 

Today i had a good look at the Escort to try work out why the diff wasnt straight. After measuring off a number of relevant spots on the car side to side, it turns out the driver's side front leaf spring eye was 10mm further back on the car. Which is welded to the chassis.
I asked around on fb for advice, and pretty much every response i got was basically, never use a tape measure on and Escort, because they were all put together badly haha.
 
Anyway, Cal and I decided to unbolt the diff, and try moving it anyway, no good. So we come up with another idea, when we installed the 1" blocks, which has appeared to work. It has corrected the rear wheels, and brought the back ride height down perfect.
 
It just scrubs the rear left arch on big bumps, and turning left turns too fast, from the body rolling sideways onto the tyre.
 

Koni - 82-1742SP4
 
Bilstein - B46-0845

The article just says that MV was privately importing a Borg Warner 5spd trans from the USA, with stronger internals, for fitment to his XE and XF turbo conversions.
The turbo conversions were carby or EFI, with a power output between 150kw - 257kw, at between 7lb and 15lb of boost.
 
His base offering, was 7lb of boost.
 
Customers had a choice of the standard 4spd, the imported 5spd,
or the factory 3spd auto, re-engineered with up-rated internals.

Today i took the Escort on its first cruise, with Vic Mini club.
 
It finished in Sunbury, so decided to go past Michael's to fit the 15s and swap them for my 13s.
 
We had to remove the driver's rear mudflap, because the diff is not sitting straight in the car (driver's wheel too far back) and it grabbed one of the screw heads holding the mudflap on.
 
Drove it back to Cal's, without it touching too bad. The only spot it light brushed the tyre a few times was the driver's back wheel, on some big dips in the road. So thats again because the diff aint straight.
 
I also need to sort out a bad wobble in the front. The steering wheel has a bad wobble to it, like having a buckled wheel, but having swapped the wheels i know thats not it.
 

 

 
 

Shes looking pretty good at the moment. I cleaned it up in and outside to get the photos to lodge with the car club.
 

 

Well the final peice of the puzzle. Its registered!!!
 
I Went to the end of year meeting/trivia night with RS Owners Club Vic, met the president of the club, got all the appropriate forms signed.
 
So i was able to walk into vicroads today, and half hour later walked with club plates for it

Here is a few more pics, original kms on the speedo, I believe I am the third owner since new. Was sold new at Allan Powell Ford in Bundaberg, which is about an hour from me. 
Interior code is G2, Paint 4.

 

 

 

 

All XD S-pak were badge-d 'FALCON GL'. The 'S' never appeared until XE. My sedan was Burnt Orange... see if I can dig up some photos...

See how I go on the weekend, Will try and get some more pics and put them up. 

Yeah don't be shy champ, show us what you got... ......

Good god man... don't wait for us to ask,
post up the pics!
 
(the more XD S-packs the better)

That is mine, It is actually badged as a GL but got all the S Pac  gear from factory. If you want some more photos let me know, Happy to help!

Noticed this one the other week, post #1643
 
http://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=5772754#post5772754

You know given the price of rotors these days would you even bother with a skim?
 
Get some slotteds you know you want to

Neat write up ,
 
You forgot the last step ,,
 
Drag out the deck chair ,, position yourself thus ,,,
Crack a can of your fave brew
And stare at your car in awe and reverence

Apply a drop of Loctite blue, and Re torque the bolts. Then put on some more lock wire. Doesn't matter what type, just as long as it fits in the holes in the bolt heads. The Loctite and torque setting should hold everything. It's just an added safety mechanism.

 
Twist the 2 ends together with pliers, and cut off the excess. 

 
Shove the snowie back on, and gently pump the brake pedal, to allow the pistons to settle against the rotor.

 
Test drive..!!
 
20 - 30 slow and easy applications of the brake, to bed them in.
 
I'll be getting the mobile disc machining guys out, soon. The disc pad backing plate has scored the rotor, on the back of the passenger side.
Need to get to work on the morrow.....
 
Have fun, enjoy working on your Ford. They dont make them like that anymore.  
 
Bear.

Yeah I asked Dave to share what he had. Thanks Dave!

Noticed this one the other week, post #1643
 
http://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=5772754#post5772754