eattsie9

All done, just need to get under the car and swap the oil pressure switch/sender
 

 
Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

I'll have to wait and see what you achieve I'm looking at a similar build

Seeing as I'm building it, it would probably throw a rod about 200m in.

I asked my question about revving cause it will change the whole build requirements of your engine. None of the following is meant to be rude, hostile and it is only what I have seen, read, heard or been told by people that have proved/done/tried/achieved certain levels of performance with the crossflow engine
If you plan on revving a crossflow past 6500 regularly you will benefit from ef crank, knife edge crank, 200 rod setup, oil gallery prep, full custom sump with windage tray and baffles and forged piston and rod setup(forged pistons and rods just happen to be the same as a 200 rod combo) Prepare to spend 8 grand on just the engine not including bolt ons.
If you plan on a street/race setup you will need standard 250 crank(deburred if you want to) standard 250 rod (ARP rod bolts for extra insurance or is your revving between 5000-6500 often) Standard 250 piston with dish to suit head to achieve desired compression ratio, sump with extra capacity for extra insurance and a windage tray cause it's free horsepower.
The cylinder head really comes down to how much money you have left/want to spend. Seat cut, valve seals, valve size and other normal serviceable items on the head will be covered by the machine shop. Porting will be on top of any head servicing but will help the engine immensely.
Take my solid roller cam build for example. I bought hypereutectic piston (block required resize of bore) that had valve reliefs placed in them, my machinist was happy to use the pistons @ 10.3-10.5 CR as I will not be revving over 6000 rpm (MSD 6al2 with rev cut), standard crank which required grinding, oil gallery ports that I cleaned/ported myself, custom sump with windage tray, standard rods which had done over 300 1/4 mile passes (@ at best of 11.5) with ARP rod bolts fitted that were fine, a cylinder head that I bought with some head work already done then had extra work done. Every bearing was replaced and a full gasket set supplied along with resized valves, brand new double valve springs with dampers, new seals, 5 angle seat cut , lightening and facing a standard flywheel and the full rotating assembly balanced from the harmonic balancer to the clutch pressure plate including rods, pistons and crank. All this was done for under $3600 ( I have scanned and put up the machining costs in another thread as I have nothing to hide as other have done which is very rare on other sites that claim lots and prove nothing)
Realistically you don't need the 200 rod combo as you are only planning to run a 2 barrel carby. There have been people that have run standard bottoms ends to 7000rpm and people that have used holden pistons machined etc but this is the exception to the rule. 9 out of 10 people will have an engine failure because they have over worked a certain part of the engine and the 1 person will be sitting back saying well it didn't happen to me so your all talking bullshit.
 

At the moment the workshop is getting a makeover for the relaunch of "Stumpers Heads & Manifolds" early next year. Something had to go to make room so the XD wagon got the chop for now, it's out at Wombats property, new shelving going up, some new tools on the way and some mould making gear to make carby tops that will be dyno tested and developed for sale later, hopefully a big year coming up.
Also the production XF that I did the head, manifold and carb for last year will have it's first run this weekend so I'm excited to see how that goes as well, this XF has been a back of the field car for years so let's see if we can get it up near the front.

All stock steering mate, the car is totalled by the way he drives lol, it's funny because this car rolls out onto the track that looks like it's just been pulled out of the tip and then proceeds to kick arse hahaha. A few old blokes that were at that meet told me that the bar erupted when he won, they loved seeing the old girl up and about, a lot of them are older drivers that used to race XF's when they were younger.

Soon as I can afford a decent head etc, or at least one not as ugly as the one on me neck.... I'll be down to get you to start on a good flowed set up and headers for me 4L stumpers. Be either an Xr6 set up in SOHC, or maybe if I get nuts, might be a Barra twinny.
 
Take care mate and best of luck with ya new venture, should be Proud.
 
Jack.

What xf347 said

I believe he is just showing the spacers. If you look closer there is no shock there, so obviously the nuts were removed to get it out.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.
 
I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.
 
No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.
 
What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?
 
You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

Glad it worked for ya mate. Another simple yet time saving fix from the help of these ozfalcon legends! It's great to see everyone offering their hints and tips to help us all get the job done

Got it in today thanks for the help, rotated it a bit then rocked back n forth then Walla it went in

Got it in today thanks for the help, rotated it a bit then rocked back n forth then Walla it went in

Got it in today thanks for the help, rotated it a bit then rocked back n forth then Walla it went in

Got it in today thanks for the help, rotated it a bit then rocked back n forth then Walla it went in

I believe it can be done with the motor in, but difficultly. Mark (extreme karts) would know.

I ended up fitting a different set of kickers, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kicker-CS4-4-150w-Car-Speakers-with-AUST-WARRANTY-/261361338791?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cda5989a7&_uhb=1
 
They fit perfectly without any modifications and the sound from them is really nice. 
Yup, That's exactly what I did, Works a treat! 

Thanks for the help guys much appreciated! 

nevermind i should probably read the whole thread propperlt before asking questions...
 
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk

Running second till someone else spins the car sounds like a front runner to me. Well done on the work so far and thank you for openly sharing the info.

Cheers everyone for all your help and advice on this.
Now that ive got some idea on what i'm doing, its time to start collecting parts.
No doubt as I get further along I will have more questions...I'd rather ask and get it right the first time than have to rebuild again and again!

Without pissing in your pocket bro it is very good to see someone using there bench to solve issues not just make chev's faster if you get my drift.Some common sense thinking and some of your time and you have found out some stuff others will go there whole life without knowing.
 
Seriously props to you Sean.

Just on the subject of idle adjustments: not many people are aware of this but ALL 4-barrel Holleys have secondary idle circuits, even the non-adjustable and emissions models. As the secondaries don't get used anywhere near as often, the fuel in that bowl can go stale very quickly, particularly in a hot engine bay. To keep the fuel fresh and flowing at a light trickle, very small idle ports are drilled below the transfer slots. When doing up a carby, these have to be cleaned out as they can easily carbon up being so small.<br /><br />The primary throttle blades need to be adjusted with the carby off so that the transfer slot shows as a little square from underneath the carby. This is to ensure that there is vac signal in that circuit ready to pull fuel in as soon as you touch the throttle. Otherwise if there's no slot showing, you'll get a stumble off idle.<br /><br />If your cam is too lumpy at that idle setting for the engine to run and you need more idle air, don't simply open up the throttle more, as ando76 said, you will lose your idle mixture adjustment because your fuel will be drawn more from the transfer slot, which is a non-adjustable circuit. Instead, try adjusting the secondary blades to get more air in, and if desparate, drill 3mm holes in the throttle blades. An old hot-rodder's trick is to drill through the bottom of the air cleaner stud hole, which opens out into a cavity under the carby that sees manifold vacuum. BG carbies actually came with an idle air screw already in there for this reason.

One of the first things I do when tuning a car is make sure it is actually getting full throttle!!  You would be surprised at the amount of times that this isn't occurring because of one reason or another,
 
incorrect - cable adjustment
                 throttle pedal action
                 return spring tension
                 pin position at the throttle linkage etc. etc.
 
Once you have established that you have full throttle and there is a throttle stop working to not stress the cable, I move onto checking the position of the throttle blades at idle.  Too many times I have seen the idle circuit (particularly oh Holleys) totally destroyed by someone opening up the idle too far just to get the car to run. 
 
You should be able to get the car to idle with the butterflies JUST cracked open (even on a cranky engine) with careful adjustment of timing and mixtures. Base timing MUST be set with the butterflies as close to closed as possible.  This ensures that the carby actually retains an idle circuit and ensures a smooth transition onto the mains. 
 
Float level should also be checked at this time to ensure that we are not flooding the carb.  On Holleys I actually take the bowl off and adjust the float level off the carb.  I turn the bowl upside down and make sure that the float finishes up half way between the screws in the bowl (that hold the float assembly).  Simple when you have re-usable gaskets.
 
Once all that is good I move onto checking manifold vacuum at idle and setting idle mixture.  If you don't have an O2 sensor fitted in the car you have to go old school and adjust the mixture to get the best vacuum at idle.  small adjustments at a time.  There is some good you tube videos from Holley on this very subject. 
 
Once you have the best manifold vacuum record that figure and then remove the bowl and metering block (on holleys in talking here cause if you have a stock webber you should ditch it and get a performance carby LOL.)  and check power valve sizing.  we want half of the manifold vacuum here.
 
Ok once that is all sorted we can look at timing adjustments as so eloquently detailed by Clevo120 above.
 
If you don't have access to a dyno and don't have an O2 sensor in the car the rest is just guess work and feeling how the car is performing on the street and addressing any issues from there.  Jetting without these two tools is left to plug reading which is a black art and requires patience and a good stretch of quiet road and a box of plugs. 
 
With the dyno or O2 sensor on the road, we can look at the AFR readings and change the jetting and air bleeds (if you have a good carby) to get the best performance from the car. 
 
This is all assuming that the dizzy - leads and coil are all doing there job and the engine actually has compression on all cylinders, something that also should be checked before tuning.  If we have a programmable ignition we can also play with timing at given rpm and load points and make some serious power and get the engine very happy right across the rev range. 
 
Yeah there is just a little bit in it to getting correct tune - and then once you have all that you have to watch the weather and altitude to get the last little bit out of the car - well in a race application anyway - lol.  That's my two cents worth.

The first thing I do when tuning an engine for the first time is check that the balancer TDC mark is accurate, I do this by using a physical stop on the piston with a stopper in the sparkplug hole in number 1. rotate the engine till it stops and mark the balancer in line with TDC mark on the timing cover, rotate the engine the other way until it stops and mark the balancer again, the timing notch on the balancer should be exactly in between these 2 marks. Then when this is confirmed correct I move the balancer till the notch points to the 10 degree mark on the timing pointer, using liquid paper mark the balancer in line with TDC mark on the pointer, move the balance again until that new mark points to the 10 degree pointer and make another mark on the balancer at the TDC pointer again. What this has done is given you timing marks not just at TDC but at 10 and 20 degrees also, this makes setting and reading the "all in" timing easy. When the second mark is flashing at the TDC mark using the timing light the ignition is 20 degrees advanced, then it is just a case of advancing the dizzy along the scale on the timing cover to get your total timing at all in revs which would be as an example on the 10 degree pointer plus the 20 on the balancer gives you a total of 30 degrees advanced.
The XE dizzy has a problem with snapping the cast pin that holds the centre bit with the triangle pointers on it to the centre shaft, when this breaks the centre bit moves and the timing all goes to shit, to avoid this from happening I pull that centre out and file that locating pin off and replace it with a steel pin and it will never break, I will do a thread on how I do it at a later date with pics.
That is all from me for now I will add some more when I get more time

Hi everybody
 
I thought it would be a good idea to get a bit of a tuning thread going for people like me who have no clue what to do.
 
Would be great if you wise gents could explain a bit about adjusting timing with stuff like stock dizzys up to msd programmable units and what you have found to work well for anything from a stock rock up to off chops & boosted engines. oh and carb tuning/jetting.
 
hopefully it will help some people like me who have no clue yet but are keen as to learn and give it a crack
 
Cheers