XHXR6

Sorry for the late reply guys, I've been having internet troubles the past few days. Sweet!, I might take a look and stock up Damn but thanks for the offer mate! I ended up just getting a brand new one for it anyway but if I ever need another one I'll be sure to let you know!, Thanks Dave, I'll check that out.

G'day everyone, I think I remember seeing something here about getting a new gasket/seal for the cap but I've tried searching for it and I can't find it. Anyone know where I can just get the seal ? instead of a whole new cap. Cheers

Not sure how pricey this would be but worth a look I guess, http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3M/en_AU/Scotchgard_Paint_Protection/Film/Products/VentureShield/VentureShield-Consumer/

Would it drone with a 3'' ? I probably should have mentioned that the car is pretty stock apart from a unifilter and sadly it's an auto .

G'day Everyone, Would anyone know where I could get an off the shelf 2.5'' sports exhaust in Victoria for my XH at a reasonable price ? I've already got a set of pacies 4499's to go on, just after an exhaust and cat now.

Replaced the mechanism over the weekend, as good as new!

If I remember correctly I'm pretty sure the EL V8's just had the single ignition coil and the AU V8's had the coil pack.

Cheers guys! appreciate the help Got stuck into it today and just have one more linkage to remove and the mech is out!

G'day Everyone, Think I found the cause of my locking mechanism issues. If you look closely at the image you can see a bit of a fracture in this white plastic bush kind of thing. This is where I'm stuck though, How do I remove the linkages for the exterior door handle and door lock barrel so I can take the locking mech out ?

Yep it is, Cheers mate! I'll take a look, Are the locking mechanisms through XG-EL all the same ? I thought EL's didn't have the linkages for the door knobs ?

I'll check it out and let you know how I go. Cheers Mate, XHXR6

G'day Everyone, I seem to be having issues again locking the drivers side door via remote. Here's what happens, As I lock it both passenger and driver side door locks go down. The passenger side is locked but the drivers side door can still be opened. If I lock the drivers side door with the key the I'm able to lock it no problem. I've already replaced the actuator and it did fix the problem for a bit but I'm beginning to think it could be the locking mechanism. The issue first began when I was trying to put those sniper door lock knobs/caps back on, I used a fair amount of force to try and get it on until I heard a snapping sound... I wasn't impressed after because I couldn't get the caps on and could have broken something in the process. (This was before I knew that you had to actually pull out the white clip from inside the cap a little bit and then sit them on the rod and give it a little thump to lock it in place). If it is the locking mech, Anyone know where I can source one from ? Cheers, XHXR6

These are the specifics if you're after them, Found them on another forum. 4.0L Engine Revision As of January 1998, EL Falcon will be fitted with a revised I6 engine. The revision will be completely transparent as far as the Customer is concerned (no change to engine appearance, power output fuel economy, service requirements, etc). It will also be transparent to you as far as basic engine maintenance and diagnostic procedures are concerned. However, where internal engine repairs are to be performed, it is important that the Technician realises the difference and is aware of the unique engine re-assembly procedures and specifications. Interchangeability of parts between the old and the new level engines is not possible except where replacement part numbers are unchanged. Do not attempt to fit new level parts to the new engine, or vice versa. Vehicle Identification There will be a period during January 1998 when both the old and the new level engines will be used at the Assembly plant. Thus the vehicle build date may not necessarily identify the level of engine fitted to the vehicle. Old level engines can be identified by a 95DA of 95DT casting on the cylinder head and a 96DA casting on the engine block. New level engines can be identified by a 96DA or 96DT casting on the cylinder head and a VR2A casting on the engine block. Note: Approximately 1,600 of these new engines will have the old level head and valvetrain fitted. The same idetification method may be used to individually identify new/old level heads. Generally speaking, the engine dissassembly/assembly procedures are unchanged. The main difference is the size and shape of various internal components. It is important that only new level components are used as replacement parts as in many cases the old level parts will not fit or will lead to the failure of other components. With respect to major engine repairs, the main points that you will need to keep in mind are: -revised hardware tightening torque specifications (some components are now 'torque to yield'). -revised bolt tightening sequences. -revised camshaft-to-crankshaft timing procedure. Lash Adjuster Removal The procedure for lash adjuster removal is unchanged. However the retaining ring has been deleted so that the piston may separate from the main body during removal if care is not taken. It is still recommended that the lash adjuster not be dismantled. Parts Information The following list identifies the upgraded parts used in the Falcon I6 engine -Engine Block (identified by VR2A casting instead of 96DA) -Crankshaft -Crankshaft Sprocket -Idler Sprocket -Idler Sprocker Bolt (black finish) -Timing Chain -Crankshaft Main Bearing Caps -Main Bearings -Con Rod Nuts & Bolts (WR2A stamped on bolt) - torque to yield -Flywheel Bolts (auto trans only) -Cylinder Head (identified by 96DA or 96DT casting insted of 94DA or 95DT) -Camshaft -Camshaft Sprocket -Camshaft Sprocket Bolt (black finish) -Inlet and Exhaust Valves, Guides, Springs and Stem Seals -Rocker Arms and Washers -Rocker Shafts and Supports Torque To Yield. Components MUST be discarded and replaced if removed or loosened. Specifications. -Con Rod Nuts : 25Nm, then rotate an additional 90 degrees. -Camshaft & Idler Sprocket Bolts : 20Nm, then rotate an additional 40 degrees. Hope it helps, XHXR6

I hope so too!, It wouldn't surprise me though, The original owners had it sitting outside exposed to the weather for a year (Probably has never had a wash until I got it either)! which left a fair share of scars on the car.

Washed the car today, Ran a fair amount of water down the plenum, No leaks. Go to wash the roof, water runs down the windscreen, The leak starts to appear. So hopefully it's the windscreen that's causing the issue.