macman

All I've ever seen in the back window of them that looks factory has been a dealership sticker.
 
Grafix Unlimited has a heap of retro styled accurate Ford dealership stickers.

www.autocables.com.au   All new , nice cables and good service I've found  

Someone has fitted an AU radiator. Those are butchered AU top radiator mounts and that is an AU bottom radiator support beam which has been chopped short.

Someone has fitted an AU radiator. Those are butchered AU top radiator mounts and that is an AU bottom radiator support beam which has been chopped short.

there must be, because XD had a dished wheel, and XE and XF/XG were flat wheel..
you notice this when sticking an XE wheel on XD and it nearly touches the blinker stalk

If it has no low-end grunt and seems to rev fine over 5000 without sounding like a piston is going to fly out and remove your pancreas, it's a 200

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do a burnout? if it cant do one, its a 200... i would pull a spark plug out and wind the motor over by hand with a ziptie in the spark plug hole(or a straw or similar) measure the stroke.. that would be the best way i know of.. (i don't know the stroke of either but it wont be hard to find out if there isn't another way)

My 1980 XD is Nutmeg. Great colour and almost has a gold glow to it in full sun.

The last one might just be a dark shot but it could be Satellite Brown like mine:

One of the best colours for an XD S-pack IMO 
 
When it's 25+ years old and faded it looks like poop but when it's fresh it is incredibly deep, sparkly, luscious!
 
Best examples I've got...
 

No metal pegs.
Body tape won't work, there's really nothing on the mould for it to stick to. I got mine from Rares/Auto One. The ends of each mould are supposed to use a nut type jobbie, but rares only have the original push in type.

Easiest way thats been done by alot of people on here is by the rolls from autobarn, super cheap etc. Its like $20 or so.

Excellent, I'm very confident that the re-learn procedure (step-by-step above) will fix your issue.
 
Let us know!

When you removed the LPG setup, did you disconnect the battery?
 
If so, the computer needs to re-learn.
 
There is a startup sequence you need to follow on first-start after reconnecting the battery, which will set all it's baselines.
 
Some AU's respond to this, others don't. My AU2 I know this HAD to be done or it would just stall. My AU1 didn't seem to care if you did it or not.

I just did a full exhaust on mine, reset on the battery.
2min in neutral no air con
2min in neutral air con
2min drive no air con
2min drive air con
took it for a blast
but idling just under 600rpm in drive, its dropped about 25rpm.
I think I may need my idle bumping up slightly due to the ph4480 and 2.5 exhaust, don't know yet as it could also be my fuel pump.
 
Clean your throttle body and iac, and reset the kams and see how you go.

Damn it.. No Piss comp

I thought his question was K frame, thats the under rad support in any car... Thats why i mentioned that they are the same suspension wise but not sure about rad fitment.
Sheesh.. i might just forget about the whole thing next time round, might be easier.

If the engine is out and is healthy then a set of rings $75 and bearings about $150 for king bearings is a great investment.  If the bottom end is not flogged you will get away with just a hone and some new cam bearings and surface the head. Engine Engineering in Brisbane charge about $380 for that service not including supply of cam bearings. 
 
Most shops are happy to help out good causes so you may find that they will do the machining for minimal cost.  definetly worth it and anyone with basic mechanical knowledge and a Gregory service manual can put together a 250 crossflow for this application.
As to cam dialing in have a look in my ute (ando's ute) build thread as I did a step by step in that.  Just make sure you use a quality Rollmaster double row timing gear set as the standard one is puss. 
 
with a good towing cam, aftermarket two barrel manifold, 350 holley and a set of extractors on a fresh bottom end you will have a great package.  add the xe electronic dizzy and coil and you have one reliable, torquey and fuel efficient motor that will be great for the intended application.