Building a Clevo

[Mr Polson 10,214]

I got my Clevo for $200, pulled it down, virgin bore in amazing nick, all it needs is a hone

[TiddleZ 12]

Your one of the lucky ones then lol

[Thom 6,651]

A few people in my club have had engines built there, they seem to be pretty happy with them

[TiddleZ 12]

Iv been really happy just talking to him. Seems genuine and happy to chat for ten or fifteen minutes and gives good advice. Price might be a bit steep but I can only assume that's because he is a master machinist (I hope lol)

[mcfly94 169]

I reckon you should hunt for a better clevo block, get it sonic tested too see how much meat is on there and try get a real good one! try to get no more than 20thou over, then if need be go 10thou over the bores, will sweet for revs and comp

[TiddleZ 12]

You see, therein lies the problem Arty. Finding a clevo that isn't already 20+ thou over is getting real hard now days and even if I did it would likely still have to have 1500 odd bucks spent on machining etc so why not spend that kinda moolah getting this one sleeved and grout filled and machined and have it be twice as strong as any standard bore clevo? Ya get 6 with one, half a dozen plus a free milkshake with the other

[mcfly94 169]

true or just go buy the arrow Cleveland block

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Someone explain grouting to me?

[mcfly94 169]

isn't it just concrete tile gap filler set in the block to prevent core shift?

[XES 859]

Check this out. It might help with the grouting explanation <br />http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/ '> http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/

[TiddleZ 12]

Not exactly sure how it's done or what it is but it makes the bottom of the block virtually solid...apparently lol

[Clevo120Y 815]

Grouting is like a concrete that you pour into the water galleries from the deck face and settle it into the bottom of the block, when it hardens it supports the bottom of the bores to reduce flex and limit the chance of a bore splitting. you need to go through a process to get it right, you do one deck at a time, the block deck needs to be level and after pouring you need to settle the mix and get the air out, I personally use an orbital sander without the sanding pad and put it on the outside of the block and vibrate it to settle the mix, others just tap the block with a mallet, it takes about a week for it to dry and then you can do the other side, a half fill is to the bottom of the welsh plugs, a full fill is to the bottom of the water pump holes. you need a good cooling system for a grouted block as your replacing some of the water capacity with concrete, an oil cooler is also a good idea in my opinion.

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

that block is toast, unless you sleeve it, which can have its advantages so long as its done right as has been explained to you

 

who ever told you its going to cost 1500$ for a decent block, bore and hone is pulling your leg, you can find plenty of clevelands that are standard bore for <$600, i have two virgin bore 351s sitting in storage with oil in the bores and 5.56 poured down the thermostat housing, i paid less than $600 for each of them

 

how much has he quoted you for all the machining total? $1000 for the sleeving and hone, im guessing if its 40thou over its going to need a tunnel bore for mains and cam, then machining crank and balancing, deck will most likely need a grind etc. then you got balancing and head work.

what are the water jackets like in that block? does it look like theres much corosion in there?

 

can't comment on NGER, all i know is stay away from geelong engine reconditioners, heard 3 bad reveiws from them.

 

cheapest bet, buy a flogged out original bore 351 (complete), get it machined, and if its going to stay below 6000rpm put an ACL race series rebuild kit through it, comes with pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, and seals.

[PRO250 1,506]

You see, therein lies the problem Arty. Finding a clevo that isn't already 20+ thou over is getting real hard now days and even if I did it would likely still have to have 1500 odd bucks spent on machining etc so why not spend that kinda moolah getting this one sleeved and grout filled and machined and have it be twice as strong as any standard bore clevo? Ya get 6 with one, half a dozen plus a free milkshake with the other

 

if you want a standed bore clevo block pm me

[TiddleZ 12]

Pm sent

[xeeclipse 37]

A hot tanked and rebored block will set you back $ 1,200. Most of the factory blocks that people want $500 for are scalled and corroded to to the point that their a waste of time if considering a proper build.

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

unfortunalty id have to agree with you xeeclipse, you need to know what your looking at before you buy, i can handle the scorred bores and core shift, that has to be guess work, though i'd definatly be keeping an eye on engines with a lot of corrosion, 90% of the time your safe for something that has <500hp though, unless it has shocking corrosion through the water jackets.

 

if your getting a block from dave you should be sweet, i wouldn't quite see him being an asshole and ripping another member off.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

A hot tanked and rebored block will set you back $ 1,200. Most of the factory blocks that people want $500 for are scalled and corroded to to the point that their a waste of time if considering a proper build.

Glad you said most!

 

As I've said, bargain blocks do exist, I have one myself. As pointed out though, it can be quite a gamble.

[xwagon 168]

will post my question here:

 

is 0.0015" too tight for a cleveland big end bearing??

[gerg 10,871]

Yeah that is a bit tight, I'd expect to see at least another thou there. Maybe the journal could be polished down a tad?