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Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it gemini engine sitting on 2 wheels .. aka "run stand" ?

Thats a good point, the stray radiator i have for start-ups has a electric fan on it

This is a quick video before bricks or radiator were added

Agreed I've fired up engines in way sketchier situations last one I did i fired up my xflow balanced on bricks, radiator hoses are usually stiff enough to hold a radiator in place, I have cable tied a radiator to a chair once to stop it moving

it's not going anywhere sitting on the cross member as pictured. My Dad used to just shove a garden hose with half a tennis ball type thing to seal it, in the lower radiator hose and turn the tap on and have a bit of similar from the top hose away from the fan(splashy splash not on the engine) depends how long you are going to run it for i guess(Most of the one's Dad ran had been sitting under the bench in the shed for 10yrs plus)

my biggest concern would be strapping the engine to the dolly. and then radiator...id have to figure something out there. wont be hard.

might need to buy a "garden art" one for the radiator support panel?

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons. Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered? See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

Hi, I'm currently weighing up what I should do to my crossflow, Its got a cast iron head which is cracked and possibly causing low compression, the engine isn't idling very well, it also had overheating issues which a new radiator cap seemed to have fixed. I saw an old set of extractors out back that might fit, can I add them and a larger carby in place of cracked head? I'll take a photo of extractors so you can tell me if they'll fit for a start, I'm also open to new extractors. I gather there will be other parts and pieces I'll need... I'm also trying to do this without mods as I'd like to be able to keep it as original as possible for now. The engine was rebuilt 10,000km ago to stock specs. Is a 350 Holley suitable? Advice on a simple upgrade that might give more grunt and a better note... Can I upgrade my head to an alloy or something more modern? Thanks for your time, Wayne

I was looking a site with some useful info on swapping a 5lt windsor and several of the common mistakes made. I am still checking mine and have found three so far. 5lt should have 2 cos sensors and they should be within 3 inches down street of the exhaust collector. Strike 1. The air filter should not be fitted straight up against the MAF. Strike 2. The throttle body should not have a bend directly (close) before or after it. Strike 3. The alternative location for the air cleaner is up front left side near the radiator. This requires shrouding the filter. All bullshite or not.? Here hopefully is the thingy to go to. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/25-ford-302-5-0-efi-engine-swap-errors/ For a carby guy struggling to get a handle on some of the efi tech, I found this helpful.

As the title says looking at all the full alloy rads on ebay etc, anyone had used one of them WHILE still keeping A/C? Reason i as im planning on keeping the A/C with the 4lt in my XF but will be getting the rad modified to suit the EF/EL pipes DO they clear and are they the same SIZE wise V8/I6 as a whole across XD/E/F?

no idea what the ones i had were, i had 2x ZJ and ZK 302s about 25yrs ago.. the ZK engine came from a rusty fairlane i paid $200 for with 4 x new tyres. was pretty worn out, i kept the dizzy and carby and radiator and sold the rest in parts. the other was the ZJ engine i built into a 351 was still std bore. paid $500 for it with a C4 pan fill on it complete

Close, they’re the ATC lines. Automatic transmission cooler lines. They run through the radiator to help cool the transmission. The A/C lines will be on the opposite side of the engine. Driver’s side [emoji1303] and a belt off the big pulley on the bottom of the engine runs to the A/C compressor [emoji1305] Its located under the Alternator. Looking at your harmonic balancer pulley it doesn’t appear to have an A/C belt on it. Maybe your car didn’t have A/C [emoji2369]

Hi guys, quick question. Who knows if 1 of these aluminum radiators will fit straight into my FD. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=748167552 The original 1 sprung a pinhole leak near the outlet at the top & I've had it braised but the guy said it could be a matter of time before another 1 pops up so I want to be proactive & replace it. The original core is 550 x 440 x 32 & the 1 im looking at is 650 x 450 x50. I measured for the length & depth, will be fine. Will the width be an issue with the fan? I measured & it looks like I'll have 7mm clearance but does anyone know for sure? Thanks & cheers.

That is one very stock and unmolested XY Fairmont Wagon with some rare options; Teal Glow in colour, 8 track. It would go for stupid money locally... Y engine in an XY is a 302 2 barrel Windsor (noting that the bottom radiator hose is on the passenger side, which some will say makes it a Cleveland, but it's a Windsor...). So that motor is correct for that car. If it is matching numbers, even better. The engine number on these is the same as the VIN number; JG35LE72036K. It will be stamped on the flat area on the block at the back of the manifold. A pain to get to. All 302 XYs were Windsors. There are rumors that the 1972 xy utes may have had clevelands, but I've never seen one. The 302 Cleveland commenced in the XA. Trans "R" is auto column shift and Trim "B" is black. That's one very stock 302. By the way the heater hoses are running, it looks like it still has the original two port carby heater on it. I'd love to see a picture with the air filter off. I can't make it out in the pictures, but the top radiator tank would have "Fomoco" stamped on it if it was the original one. Regardless, that radiator is an original type one. Train spotters will note that the clamps are no original... Paint code 5 is Teal Glow. Not very common. V8 Fairmont Wagons weren't very common either (they have unique chrome pieces around the rear door widows).

Hello everyone. I'm very slowly getting into the old and long silent engine in my late Grandfather's 1977 XC Falcon. The car hasn't turned over since around 1988 or 1989 I think, so I know I'll have to be gentle with the restarting process. Today, I removed the upper and lower radiator hoses for a bit of a look, and the contrast between each was astounding... I'm just wondering how concerned I should be about the results? Top hose was perfectly fine at the radiator end, although it was dry. However, when I took the hose off at the thermostat housing, I found it was jam packed with a powdery substance. I thought that it might have been the same story with the lower hose and the water pump, but as I loosened the hose clamp, I could hear the coolant still gurgling in the pump and hose. Coolant poured out quite freely when the hose was removed. The coolant looked quite clean considering the length of time the car was stored for. Is it possible that my Grandfather might have used a stop-leak solution in the coolant? Or some sort of rust inhibitor? Is the powder something that anyone else has ever seen before? Should it clean out easily with a good flush of the engine? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

One way to GENTLY clean out cooling system corrosion such as the above, is to use some Evaporust cooling system flush. I have used it, and it works very well. You fill the entire cooling system with it, as you would a normal coolant, then run the vehicle through a few heat cycles over a week or so, depending on the corrosion level. There were some new old Stock Thermostat housings on ebay a while ago. If not, I may be able to get you a NOS one, and/or a near perfect condition second hand one, if you can't afford new. I see the lower radiator hose and water pump heater hose, have the factory Utilux clamps still. Very cool! The factory Crossflow 76DA water pumps have cast iron impellers, whereas the only aftermarket options (GMB or Gates), have stamped steel impellers which IMO are not as good. If your water pump is a factory NON-aircon type (metal fan), I may be able to find you a NOS genuine ford one of those too, maybe.... Only if yours is no good. edit - here is an old-stock (OEM Ford supplier but Repco boxed) water pump with the die-cast housing, and cast iron impeller - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-REPCO-Water-Pump-Ford-Falcon-200-250-6-Cylinder-Cortina-New-XC-XD-WP1805/233853940296 and an extremely overpriced thermostat housing - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XC-XD-XE-XF-FALCON-TE-TF-MK4-MK5-CORTINA-GEN-FORD-NOS-6-CYL-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING/323710063630

i agree with gerg above, that's pretty normal.. something you'll probably need to be prepared for undoing the water pump bolts is a potential for them to break... if you get yourself a MAPP GAS torch, you can heat the alloy water pump around the bolts and maybe the block itself.. around that area(broken bolts are a pain in the rear) you'll also use the torch on exhaust bolts, brake line nuts, LOTS OF THINGS.. one of the most useful tools is HEAT! and WD40/penetrene etc.. i'd also tap out an EASY welsh plug, (under exhaust manifold in the block) if it's brass.. maybe the rest are.. if it's rusted steel, plan for the rest. radiator i'd leave for a while, i'd get a RADIATOR SOCK for the top hose..(will be rust flakes and crud coming from the engine once it gets run a few times) by all means flush it several times before. i can link you to another thread on another forum that has EVERYTHING you are likely to encounter also.. Bretts XK ute on fordforums https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11355657 link to the Mapp gas torch(first one i came across complete, cheaper elsewhere though) https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bernzomatic-ts8000tk-400g-mappro-yellow-cylinder-with-high-intensity-triggerstart-torch?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjPaCBhDkARIsAISZN7SmMHewbtZjIpVgyMU3XpFh-jmEJnwHyxxSQccPKh5hn6s54Bb7DtkaAm4bEALw_wcB

G'day mate The powder is pretty expected, as the thermostat housing is normally die cast zinc and acts as an anode (sacrificial metal) in the cooling system. The rusty water is a bit of a worry but only a flush will reveal what corrosion/sediment is in the water jacket. I've found that once the oxygen in the water has reacted with the metal and has depleted, the amount of further corrosion in the water jacket diminishes. The radiator will likely need at least a service or re-core, replace all hoses and do the water pump. The ceramic seal inside it will likely be contaminated with rusty deposits. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Hey Guys, Just doing a bit on Water for cooling systems and will look at Corrosion inhibitors and coolant a bit. Let's start with water..... Now there are 3 main areas of Water to look at: 1) Softness and Hardness 2) PH and it's effects on metals. 3) Rain water VS Distilled water VS R.O. water VS Tap water. Softness and Hardness: These are terms used to describe the mineral content or Total Dissolved Solids in a water source. The softer the water the less dissolved solids are in it. The harder the water the more dissolved solids it has. This can be measured in two ways... TDS or E.C. Total dissolved solids or electromagnetic current. P.P.M. Parts Per Million. For this write up I will be using P.P.M. PH OF WATER and effects on metals. PH measures whether the water is Acidic , Neutral or Alkaline. The lower the PH, the more Acidic the water is. (PH.4- very acidic) The higher the PH, the more Alkaline the water is. (PH.10-very alkaline) Neutral PH is around 7. Acidic water will eat into metals and Alkaline water will leave scale and mineral build up if the PPM is high. Tap water is usually around PH.8-9, so it does not eat away metal pipes. Slightly Alkaline. In a motor there are all sorts of metals that interact with each other. Alloys, steel, brass, copper etc, etc. Usually in an Acidic PH state in a motor Aluminum and Alloys will act like a sacrificial anode and be the first to be corroded away. Steel will rust and brass and copper will degrade. In an Alkaline PH state in a motor again Alloys and Aluminum are affected first and calcium and other minerals will fall out of suspension and bond with metals causing white scale build up. Usually see this if you use tap water in your motor. Ok, now you understand about Dissolved Solids measured in P.P.M and PH levels let's look at the different waters. TAP WATER- P.P.M. 200-300+ (World health standard for drinking water is MAX of P.P.M. 500.) PH- 8 to 9. So tap water is high in dissolved solids and mildly Alkaline to prevent pipe corrosion. Considered Mild to Hard water depending on PPM level. The PH will be pretty constant but P.P.M will vary depending on source. RAIN WATER- P.P.M- low and varied dependant on collection method. PH. - can also vary greatly dependant on collection method. Considered Soft water as rainwater is evaporated ocean salt water and most solids are left behind. Acidity/Alkalinity varies. DISTILLED WATER- P.P.M.- between 100-200. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered soft water as has low PPM and also is close to PH neutral. R.O. WATER (reverse osmosis).- P.P.M. - between 20-30 PPM. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered very soft water and is also very close to PH neutral. CHOOSING WATER FOR USE IN MOTORS. Now, based on all that information you will find you want a water that is low in dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. TAP water is too high in dissolved solids and PH is also too high. Alkalinity high and pH high will cause scale and mineral build up. If goes acidic, will eat metal. Bad choice. RAIN water is good as it is low in dissolved solids but PH can vary. Soft enough but PH can be unknown. Not consistent enough. DISTILLED water is great as has low amount of dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. Good choice for use with Corrosion inhibitor concentrate or to mix with coolant concentrate. Can be purchased from Supermarkets. R.O. water (reverse osmosis) is the best with P.P.M. of only 20-30 and a neutral P.H.- to slightly Alkaline. Also strips water of chlorine, impurities. Best choice for use with Corrosion Inhibitor concentrate or Premix Coolant concentrates. Need access to R.O. water filter or buy a set up.(around $80 inc filters). Both Distilled water and R.O. water can be used alone in the cooling system but I would advise using at least a corrosion inhibitor as extra insurance. Type B: Corrosion Inhibitors come in 2 types. Type B - Corrosion inhibitor ONLY. Type A - Corrosion inhibitor and Coolant or Antifreeze/Antiboil. Early Falcons use only Corrosion inhibitor and no coolant or anti freeze/anti boil. Really only needed in extreme heat or extreme cold. The use of coolant on the 4L sohc for example may lead to too lower temp reading and possibly affect the E.C.T. sensor. Causing them to run rich. The gauge may also be affected and read low. Thermostat for these motors should be 91C as they came out with..... Can use anywhere from 87-93C. I recommend Motorad thermostats.... Very similar to Factory except has air bleed or "rattler", and factory thermostat does not. Do Not use thermostats that have been drilled and touted as "performance" thermostats. These will lower the operating temp slightly, but enough for the ecu to read the temp as cooler and richen the Air Fuel Ratio and may even prevent/hamper Lean cruise mode. Motors like Clevos , Crossys , 4L sohc and Windsors only really need Corrosion Inhibitor and distilled or R.O. water. Coolant or AntiFreeze/AntiBoil really only needs to be used in extreme situations or with performance applications. OR if required by motor specs. Coolants are typically glycol mixed with water and dye added. (Glycol is actually clear.) The new generation of coolants are water free but require a special flushing agent be used before using the coolant. As there is no water in the mix, there is little to no corrosion. Evans Waterless coolants. Most cooling system problems can be fixed with proper radiator shrouds, correct thermostat and fan system. Coolant really shouldn't be used to fix an inefficient system. Hope this helps some people and explains why you don't use tap water in your cooling system. FORD ON! Outback Jack. That what you were after@SPArKy_Dave ?

Great info Jack, next radiator fill will be with rainwater [emoji41][emoji106] I've noticed that Ethylene Glycol (the toxic one) was set to be phased out with Proplylene Glycol (non-toxic) probably 20 years ago, at least in heavy diesel applications for liner cavitation, long-life and environmental reasons. PG is actually used as a food additive and in cosmetics, such is its low-toxicity nature. PG is a long-life coolant with 5 years being pretty standard. Back then, EG lasted only 2 years. Somehow now, the manufacturers have swung back to Ethylene Glycol and have made it into a 5-year coolant, yet the toxicity remains. Perhaps PG is too expensive? I hate to think what kind of environmental hazards are presented with an EG spill vs PG (pretty benign in comparison) They are definitely incompatible (hence the pink dye added to the concentrate) and there are catastrophic consequences for mixing the two. Like your coolant turning to jelly. But there isn't an industry standard for coolant colours and types, which further confuses the issue. For PG, I have seen blue, purple, punk and red. For EG, the majority are green/yellow but Toyota are set on having red despite it resembling many generic PG types. I would say Proplylene is a superior coolant in every way, but back in the early 2000s, a complete fill of a car would cost probably $150 with premix. Maybe though, the higher cost and incompatibility with EG have pushed it purely into the industrial market? That scenario is sort of like DOT 4 and DOT 5 brake fluids. 4 is a glycol based fluid, and 5 is silicone. To the uninformed, these could be easily mixed up yet they are highly incompatible. You hardly ever see DOT 5 except in racing cars. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I remember Boingk brought a ebay alloy radiator with thermo fans in his XF ute,

Can confirm. My XF nissan ute, has the non-aircon radiator, with dealer-fit aircon. The full plastic shroud is smaller, and the fan has metal blades rather than plastic. My non-aircon XE wagon, has the small radiator also, but just has a small metal top-hat style fan shroud. It also has metal fan blades. My factory aircon XE has a full plastic fan shroud, and plastic fan blades.

where do you run the pipes? The only way id get an intercooler pipe around there with the battery in situ is if it was silicone and squished down a tad. otherwise if i go a narrower radiator, i could potentially run the original HKS intercooler from the original turbo kit, which actually mounts to the driver's side of the radiator and mounts vertically. its probably not that efficient, but if i want the HKS kit to look period, the narrower radiator should allow this. Chris, if i went that path, id probably be inclined to run thermos anyway, so shroud wont be an issue. Ill keep the copper radiator and store it to repair at a later date, but going aftermarket gives me options to make some more room for piping etc.

There is a worldwide shortage of copper at the moment, hence prices are through the roof, and still rising. The cost of new x-series OEM style copper/brass radiators could soon get expensive, if you can even find one. My recommendation is to pay the $100-$200 or so, and have your original copper/brass radiator cleaned out/re-soldered. (unless you can re-solder yourself) ie, preserve it, at all costs. From yrs of reading other peoples experiences, the aluminum radiators are nowhere near as efficient or long-lasting, as the copper/brass units. edit - I just checked the Cooldrive Distribution online system - wow... ZERO radiators available for x-series at the moment. Not even for XG, XH or EA-EL, for which OEM style is copper core, with plastic end tanks. There's seriously nothing there... @Mr Polson, can you check with Adrad, and see what their system says?