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i have no idea but.. i'd speak to a radiator joint, head reco mob or someone like @Mr Polson who may be able to ask suppliers if coolants/antifreeze have a lubricant of sorts in them?(they are slippery and drag racing strips HATE it when it's on the track, doesn't dry out) a mate of mine "fixed" a grey fergie tractor water pump with GREASE, can't remember what he did though (whether he pumped it in the seal leaky hole or removed it and packed it somehow?) the difference is, that might have been an old crusty thing with a leather seal in it?

if you watch the series the Castlemaine rodshop did on their XF with turbo barra, pretty sure they used a VL commodore radiator to avoid notching the rail, but had to screw around with radiator hoses. I used BA stuff on my XE with a scallop taken from the rail... Ants build thread on his (sleeping with the fish's?) xe ute is a great blueprint/basis to follow, has good clear pics of the scallop/notch he did, along with the fitting the lower tie bar for the BA/BF radiator

I have a set of EF or EL fans sitting here that I never used. But I guess I'll see if I can grab the radiator and fans from the BF and make them fit. Doing one of these swaps is very much 'a piece from here and a piece from there'

My mate fitted an EL radiator and fans into XG recently(EF engine), that was a pain in the ass also... i don't know why they didn't use an EA EB radiator in the XG, it would have fitted fine if engineered from the beginning.

Well there you go, good to know. Weird how they changed things from model to model. Change the hell out of how the radiator sits on the bottom, but use the same crank bearings for 50 years

nah XG lower radiator mounts are heaps different to XDEF. i used an EF radiator and fans in My XE with 1UZ due to the hose sizes and outlets. Ants thread mentions what they used in the looking for fishes barra XE ute i'll post a link to it thread here.. i'll have a look through it We also used a front tie bar from a ba as its going to use a stock ba radiator, fans and hoses to keep it all as simple as possible and to make it easy to get parts. To get the bottom radiator hose the original tie bar needed a notch for clearance.

I think EF/EL fans on a XG radiator is the way to go? Or just aftermarket fans. Xflow radiator will have the hose inlet/outlet on the wrong sides. XG radiators are rare I believe but might bolt straight into XF (I'm pretty sure) and have the hoses in the right spots, and the outlet for the overflow bottle.

There is a few Barra buildups in xd/e ‘s on here ,, showing radiator to chassis rail notching that’s needed ,, acc pedal mounting , plug n play harness links etc . I wanted to do a Barra swap into my LTD ,,, but being a moron with no foresight or foreskin I sold the bastard . Complete numpty .

And the radiator ,, so hoses line up

Hi guys, I just blew up the radiator in the XF Given the new engine going in isn't exactly stock, and will eventually be turbocharged, I am looking at an alloy radiator. Ive heard mixed opinions of the eBay ones. But has anyone here got hands on experience with them? in particular this unit below. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Aluminum-Radiator-80W-Fan-Shroud-For-Ford-Falcon-XC-XD-XE-XF-1973-1983/131996740559?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D5bfea11ff93648a1905d36efc9b75955%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272963200108%26itm%3D131996740559%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae25db467-7f13-11eb-82c4-ba748d472e1c|parentrq%3A0b83dc8b1780acf049616da5fffc2a58|iid%3A1

Hey guys Looking to mount up a set of EL thermos to an XF radiator, how have people done it? Thanks, adrian

This radiators not in X series but anyways, I have just gone thru replacing the the copper nipon denso radiator in my 3.5lt v6 Pajero. I took my ND and a triple core core one that i brought from a swap meet to a mob called Pasino Radiators, theyve been around for over 40 years and absoulete legends in the game. They tested both and said the ND was beyond repair and the swap meet one they would clean and replace the top tank $160.00 but no warranty on the repaired one. For a new copper radiator i was quoted $850. So i got an Ebay one,i did some research and found a listing that kinda only did radiators, it was $125.00.Ive bush bashed ,towed caravans and tandem loads of firewood. The needle has never gone over half. Would i buy another one ? for sure.

The eBay radiators are fine if you do your research and sizing. I've bought 8 now, even for the big block AMG I had. The stock one from AMG was $2k, and adrad one was $800, second hand one was $500, new one from eBay, $180. Had that in there 2 years, not an issue. Do your research and you'll be fine. As for the XD-XF, the eBay ones won't bolt straight into the brackets, no but it's easily modified depending on the radiator you go with.

Hi chobbb, I reckon which ever one you choose, you're going to have to modify the Ford mounting brackets/rubbers. Those aluminium radiators simply aren't the same shape as the old copper radiators. The copper radiators have those protruding flanges at the tank edge that the rubber mounts couple to and the flanges nestle into. I would pick the radiator that is the same core dimension with the angled top inlet, then play with the mounts and fit the fan shroud.

Sorry to drag this topic back up.. I have a ZK EFI with disused AC that has the wide radiator with angled top fitting, core dimensions about 660 x 460 x 46. It's beyond repair. On eBay the same radiator in alloy recently jumped in price to $335: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274577645969 I assume I can fit the narrower and cheaper one, like the below, and just use a different top hose and shroud? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154553831901?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXE|Model%3AFalcon&hash=item23fc2051dd:g:edoAAOSwOINeqox3 Then there's ones that are just as wide as mine with a straight fitting, which would mean the top hose will hit the battery: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393696221074?hash=item5baa1f9792:g:GxIAAOSwLfxeIpob Advice on what will fit appreciated Cheers

Hi all, New to the forum and have some questions I need help with. I have a 1984 XE sedan, 4.1 auto and I am converting to a V8. I have been told that once conversion done a RWC and a view by Vic Roads should suffice. Now my questions, I have purchased a 1984 LTD, 351 complete, I have done this as I believe that a lot of the 6 cylinder components will be no good for a V8, I am replacing radiator, water pump hoses etc with new. I know I will have to shorten the tail shaft as the LTD is a longer car. Would the LTD have an LSD? I know it is not a 9inch. The LTD has leaf springs and the XE has coil on the rear, the XE has drums on the rear, What is the best way to get the LTD diff and discs on to the XE? Should I run with leaf or coil on the rear or is it too hard to swap ? Someone told me that an E series diff is what I need out of something like an EB XR6, Is this correct and will it change straight over or what needs to be changed? Any help or advice appreciated. The LTD was paddock ridden and has heaps of rust and interior is very ordinary but the XE is rust free and repainted, nice low ride with a Fairmont interior, that is why I am not pursuing the LTD. All other parts including interior less centre console on LTD is available to anyone interested, door and window trims appear good. Any other ideas or items I should be aware of please let me knowRegardsSacko7

you used to need a "mechanics report" for V8 conversion into XE basically saying it used all V8 components (basically rear discs and front springs) a good wide(air conditioned) 4.1 radiator is often the same as a V8 one(check the LTD one if it's thicker, if so and good, use that, would be 3 core instead of 2) are you sure it's a 1984 LTD? if so the diff should have coil springs, and be a direct fit(need to find an XE or XF sedan disc hand brake cable then) if it's a leaf spring LTD it's not going to have the correct accelerator cable either, so you'll need to find an XE V8 one if it's got the stock carby, or if it has been fitted with a holley carb, you can get a mount that pulls from the back and the 6cyl cable can be used if still good. things you'll need to swap for it to bolt in. engine mount bases (to the chassis cross member) gear shifter (assuming both T bar auto) accelerator cable unwrap the tape on 6cyl wiring loom on the coil, and some other wires and they should reach the V8 items locations other than the air con wire(need to make it longer) the wiring loom to the trans inhibitor switch/speedo sender may be the same plug type at the firewall for plug and play swap. wide 6cly radiator can be used, but hoses and shroud will be needing swapped. that's about all i can think of from the top of My head. front springs will need changing, as the V8 is like 100kg heavier.

not sure about windsor into XE, i would expect very similar to cleveland. you'll need a C4 specific gear shifter compared to the 6cyl one. the tailshaft from the 6cyl will fit, the speedo sender will need a C4 specific gear fitted for the diff ratio you are keeping. V8 XA to XE base mounts will allow the engine to bolt up directly (6cyl ones unbolt from the cross member and V8 ones bolt in place) radiator hoses might need to use a join in the top hose, but the bottom might fit depending on water pump you have. you'll need to research which extractors fit those heads and then into XA to XE accelerator cable from the 6cyl can reach if you get the right carby bracket that pulls from the rear of the engine otherwise you'll need a longer XE V8 cable that pulls from the front. wiring wise you'll have to see if the C4 has the inhibitor switch on it, there would be a short loom adapter back 30yrs ago, but you'll probably have to cut and join wires to suit (3 for the speedo will remain same) 2 thinner wires for reverse lights, 2 larger ones are neutral/park wires. unwrapping the tape of the engine wires (oil pressure, temp, ign, alternator etc) will usually reach everything on a cleveland V8 i assume a windsor will be similar. you'll be figuring out some slight differences, but i reckon that will be most of it. (you can convert a cleveland V8 into a 6cyl XE over a weekend if you have everything ... i did it 25yrs ago with a fairlane donor car)

$750 - $7500 for a Windsor. Everything else is easy, bit of wiring, extend the steel fuel line, etc. 6 cyl crossflow radiator in good nick will cool a 351 Clevo, with stock fan and shroud. ....and set some more money aside for tyres....

Well I had stuck a US fuel pump from a 170ci, from a Bronco, it has a vacuum pump built in to help the vacuum wipers. I didn't get the engine with a fuel pump in it I don't recall. That didn't work. I spent a day on it I suppose. I had gotten a motorcraft fuel filter with 2 in, 1 out - and had the overflow on the carb come down to that filter, with the other coming from the tank, and one out to the pump. I played with all that thinking I created a pressure point or caused it to not get prime. Nope, swapped out to a regular fuel pump from like a 69 mustang with a 250 and she fired off nicely! The arm on the stock Bronco one was angled higher, i think it was missing the lobe or barely engaging, not enough to pump. I'm in the middle of installing the header and getting clearance. Also I have a fan issue - since I raised the water pump like 2" going from the 170 to the 250, the stock 14" fan wont work, a derale aluminum 13" race fan will just barely hit the top radiator hose/inlet. Once I get the header clearanced, I may raise the radiator 1/2". Also, in the US I can't find a Bosch starter BFX456 or 129. At ALL. The stock starter had issues hitting the flywheel. I picked up a powermaster 9603, ministarter that you can adjust where the solenoid is (clocking). The stock ford mini starters over here are all the same, and the solenoid portion hits the block before I can start the top bolt. The powermaster is working very well. So she starts, then I pulled off the manifold for the header. I may have a vacuum leak, I threw a gauge on it, and its erractic, but it has a cam - I wanted to dive into that after I got the header on and maybe adjusted the Weber some - or even after getting a fan on it so I can let it idle and not get hot?? I'm going in many directions at once right now, but she did has 40psi oil pressure at idle and sounds great. I will post pics soon. Overall, she sounds very healthy with the 38 on it.

Tomorrow is the day. I will have the engine up and running. Today, I got it all ready to run. Filled it with oil, set the base timing, and had it turning over on the starter. Ive also wired up my VDO oil pressure gauge for when we get it running so i can keep an eye on that. At this stage I haven't seen the oil pressure register on the gauge, but there appears to be oil pumping around. When we first cranked it, it was very slow, then after a couple seconds it took off, im assuming as oil started pumping around the engine. Before calling it a day in the shed, I stuck the plugs back in, and had a crack and cranking it over...it was very slow. Battery is in good health, so im going to take a stab and say this engine has a fair whack of compression. Suddenly this little engine seems to be very busy with pipes lol. ive decided not to hook up the radiator, but I am going to fill the block with water so I can at least run it for a short period. hence the radiator hoses pointing upwards. And hence why the heater hoses are linked together etc.

EFi fuel pressure is more like 40-60 psi N/A, Eg XE EFi 36psi, AU is 275kpa/40psi AU XR is 300kpa/43psi, will need EFi rated hoses & clamps, 5/16" fuel line is a bit on the small size, 3/8" would be better, 5/16" could be used as returnline, not sure on fitting EFi pump to carby tank 2. double check if GT40 or GT40P heads as GT40P had the different plug angle, GT40s might work with normal XDEF windsor extractors, did see a XE wagon with factory 5.0 headers 5. I'd use E series tailshaft stronger tailshaft to diff flange mount, 7. I'd say Terminator X, But to pass engineering may need factory ECU for emissions standards, or may have to pass a IM240 emissions test (heard is like $1200 pass or fail) best talk with engineer on that. 9. EF/EL AU/BA BF/FG Falcon Thermo fans fit XDEF radiator with a bit of trimming on mounts & for top hose, or there are ebay alloy radiators with thermo fans, I have AU fans on my V8 3 core.

Hi mate, looks like a good starting point. Assume you've got GT40p heads to suit the extractors.? Fuel pump, tank and lines are bin job. Tank can be modified for return lines etc, prob easier to grab one from an EFI XF, or ZL. Fuel pump pressure for carbies is approx 5-8 psi, EFI runs around 100.! Get EFI fuel hoses on everthing, pump sits in tank, and has return from fuel rail/injectors. Change to metal fuel filters as well. Been looking for a T5 manual for my next project, they're pretty scarce these days, blokes who have them wont sell. Diff should bolt in with the larger bushes. Aren't they oval shaped or something @Thom ? XF radiator is good enough for a 351 Clevo, so in good nick, will do fine with fan and shroud. AU or EF fans can be fitted if you prefer. Make/modify the shroud. Wiring is sh!t, don't do it, hate it, pay someone else to do it, frekkin hate wiring........ stoopid little crimp lugs, and dumb ar5e coloured cables. ......

I separated the engine and gearbox to make the box easier to work on. But also to allow room on the front of the dolly to mount the radiator too if I do want to run the engine in properly. I am concerned about my replacement extractors though. My shitty luck, i didnt see this written on the lower side of them the other day. it reads "1300? Hit floor of rally car" which is a 1600. bugger

Hi Guys Considering a alloy radiator for one of my v8's, standard rads just don't cut it Obviously there are a range of big name stuff, your pwr, aussie desert cooler and then there is your ebay specials there will be quality differences obviously but there is also big price differences to consider too does anyone know who has the biggest off the shelf radiator? i used to own a massive 5 core unit but iv never found another one anyone able to offer some experiance? has the cheap ones been any good? are they standard size or oversize? who has the best value for money? anyone ever had a custom radiator made? price? i hope to use a single fg fan for looks and performance, i found with my 5 core the twins ef fans didnt work anywhere near as hard as with a factory manual 3 core, rarely had to turn them on past half speed, so i think another genuine ford big single fan that ford uses as the common twin thermos should be acceptable