hucklburry

I kept at it and #5 is all bouncy bouncy on the spring now. She was stuck full up which is good I think in regards to being bent. this engine was rebuilt and run about 3000 miles, in a 60s Ford econoline that the guy couldn't keep cool so he took it out. In my old Bronco she runs cool just fine. It sat in my garage for 3 years and longer in the garage of the guy I bought it from. Clean, but I think valve stem moisture/rust is the issue? I lubed the crank and spun it over with no coil before start up, but I wish I had pulled the valve covers and spun it by hand checking the valvetrain before installing also.... Since the valve freed up and bounces on the spring, I am going to go through all the lifters individually and clean and lube and put back in place, I'd like to keep them matched to the cam. I have a nice milwaukee camera to inspect the cam. I don't mind buying new lifters at all, just thinking keeping them matched is a good idea?? I guess I'll get 3 new rocker arms, so all 12 match, and the 2 that had pushrod issues are a little dinged up where the pushrod contacts them. New is better than dressing them up. lifters are cheap, I don't mind getting new ones, but I was thinking they are worn to the cam and keeping them? Its not a lot of miles, I dunno?I can see no wear indications on the one lifter I have pulled so far, looks new. I don't even mind buying roller rocker arms, but then I don't know what I have to change on the pushrods, so maybe keep it simple and stick with stock rocker arms. thank you --Jim

UPDATE, I started this yesterday, used Kroil first, few hours later some PB Blaster as those are what I had on hand. Dug through my cabinet last night, found some ATF, let is soak overnight, and this morning she moves. Still needs some work, sticky, takes seconds to spring back up, but she moved from full up (compared measurements between each intake valve height) So I either run it with new pushrods or figure out the rocker arm situation. Thank you --Jim

I bought a rebuilt 76DA block with 82 alloy head, it sat for years, I thought I had oiled it enough before start up but bent 2 pushrods (hard to know until I got an exhaust on it, then started tuning carb, and finally did a compression test). Anyway, here is where I am at: #2 intake seems the hydraulic lifter didn't pump up, I can spin the lifter but not getting it out too easy yet, working on that #5 intake valve seems to be stuck closed, I am working on freeing it up (soaking now) hoping to not remove the head This engine has like 3000 miles on a crow cam 14613, a bit of a "torq" cam, and crow recommends HT900 lifters, not a problem to source in the US Crow recommends PR-917 push rods, which are 5/6" ball ends .080 wall, 9.7" long - mine aren't marked but that seems to be what it has (I will double check measurements) - I can get these in the US, and I can even get 5/6" .105 wall, is it worth it or better to just bend a push rod if there is a problem? So I had pulled the valve cover and got the bent pushrods out, and out of 12 rocker arms, 2 are different. See the picture, I have two of the one on the top or left, and 10 of the one on the bottom or right. A google search looks like the one on the bottom or right references correctly to a stock crossflow rocker, part #181-1034, that I can get in the US also pretty easy. I don't know why it has 2 that are different?? Assuming I get the valve freed up, I am thinking of getting all new hydraulic lifters and pushrods, and at least 2 rocker arms. Perhaps some would recommend just going through the existing lifters cleaning etc as they were already used on this cam and clean up (they are clean) and lube and re-use? I've searched through the forum, I see roller rockers using a kit, but that conversion kit from crane cams seems to be obsolete. This isn't a high reving engine with this cam (its installed in a 66 Bronco with a 3 speed on the column, 4.11 gears, and 33" tires), I wouldn't mind installing roller rocker arms, but I don't know the latest way to do that and what it does to my pushrods? Any current info would be appreciated, I'd be up for replacing to roller rocker arms and new pushrods, and cleaning and re-using these lifters, or new lifts. To summarize - my big question is why the 2 odd ball rocker arms, and info on a roller rocker arm conversion (keeping the hydraulic lifters to fit the crow cam) Thank you! --Jim

Well I had stuck a US fuel pump from a 170ci, from a Bronco, it has a vacuum pump built in to help the vacuum wipers. I didn't get the engine with a fuel pump in it I don't recall. That didn't work. I spent a day on it I suppose. I had gotten a motorcraft fuel filter with 2 in, 1 out - and had the overflow on the carb come down to that filter, with the other coming from the tank, and one out to the pump. I played with all that thinking I created a pressure point or caused it to not get prime. Nope, swapped out to a regular fuel pump from like a 69 mustang with a 250 and she fired off nicely! The arm on the stock Bronco one was angled higher, i think it was missing the lobe or barely engaging, not enough to pump. I'm in the middle of installing the header and getting clearance. Also I have a fan issue - since I raised the water pump like 2" going from the 170 to the 250, the stock 14" fan wont work, a derale aluminum 13" race fan will just barely hit the top radiator hose/inlet. Once I get the header clearanced, I may raise the radiator 1/2". Also, in the US I can't find a Bosch starter BFX456 or 129. At ALL. The stock starter had issues hitting the flywheel. I picked up a powermaster 9603, ministarter that you can adjust where the solenoid is (clocking). The stock ford mini starters over here are all the same, and the solenoid portion hits the block before I can start the top bolt. The powermaster is working very well. So she starts, then I pulled off the manifold for the header. I may have a vacuum leak, I threw a gauge on it, and its erractic, but it has a cam - I wanted to dive into that after I got the header on and maybe adjusted the Weber some - or even after getting a fan on it so I can let it idle and not get hot?? I'm going in many directions at once right now, but she did has 40psi oil pressure at idle and sounds great. I will post pics soon. Overall, she sounds very healthy with the 38 on it.

The 38 DGMS showed up today, I will be installing over the weekend - it will orient with the bowl towards the firewall, meaning the only real obstruction is one of the idle jets is hard to get too. It matches real well to my choke cable, and I installed a lokar shift cable, making that easy as well. The other way the linkages are close to the valve cover and one vacuum port is really blocked - the jeepers say bowl to the firewall is better for inclines off road so this may be best for me. I will plug one fuel inlet and use the other as is, not worried about that location, it would be nice if I could have it enter from the fender side, but that port is not open. I have seen where someone drilled and tapped it to work, I am not ready to start on that right now.

So I pulled the ADM, and yes I think with some work I can get the 2100 to fit, but its not right, and its too tall for my hood space. So I am ordering a 38 today and see how it does off road I guess. Mounted sideways? I'll post pics of the Bronco in Colorado I hope, wish me luck. Thank you

OH, and I had thought about the elevations the other day, like what is the tallest point in Australia? OK, so I just googled it, 7310ft, taller than I would have thought!

Dean, I emailed weber redline here in the states asking about the 38 choice given the engine spec's. We shall see what they say. Gerg, here are some pics. The 500 has one vacuum port on one side and thats it. The 2100 has a port and some stuff and a choke linkage - I ordered the adapter and took the ADM off, so I can maybe mock something up and check clearance. I have very little room to the hood. I don't mind up grading the intake at some point, but I'd like to have this engine running first. It might be perfect for this little bronco, the torque should be there already. So I guess I'd just like a simple carb that fits easily??

I live near St. Louis, Missouri, and have a 76da block with an 82 alloy head, I am installing extractors, and it has a torquey crow cam that doesn't look like it will not rev real high. It is going into a 66 Bronco that had a 170cu six, low end torque is better for spinning 33" tires etc. It came to me with a 34 ADM, and its just flat not supported in the US. In addition, I would have to wire in the choke and the sensors on the carb, and deal with the fuel return. I'd prefer to keep a manual choke like it had originally. I plan on driving it mostly street, to ball games and the hardware store, but am planning a trip here soon to Colorado and the rockies, with trail rides to 10,000ft and more. And inclines. My research says a 38 DGMS would be good, I think. At least its supported over here, and bolts right in. I guess a lot of jeepers run it, and they either do some mods to the float bowl, or turn the carb around with the float bowl near the firewall, to avoid stalling out on inclines. Both my throttle and choke are cable actuated, so linkage isn't a big concern. The Autolite 2100 is very similar to the holley 500 - and I can get the adapter over here in the states. But it looks like the 2100 could have some clearance issues with the valve cover? I am not sure. I was wondering if someone could share a pic of their holey near the valve cover, as the 2 are very similar. Or even better, has someone installed the 2100 and can give me some advice on installation? I have both the older valve cover in place, and the newer aluminum one on the shelf. The 2100 handles inclines very well, I know the carb very well, I'd like to run one on this engine. I actually already ordered the adapter, but not sure if it will fit, or I should just go with the Weber 38 DGMS (manual choke). I appreciate your help! At some point when its running, I will share pics.

I am under the impression I need this one you posted earlier like page 1: I would love a Ford part #???

Well the 65 Mustang 6cylinder clutch fork is 3" crease to end of forks. The 66 Bronco with 170 six clutch fork is 4-1/2" crease to end of forks I was told the Crossflow is 3-5/8" crease to end of forks So I think this mustang one is too short. The search continues, pic of the mustang on left, Bronco is black on the right.

Its a 76DA block, with the later head - I think I have to pull the valve cover to check for a casting # and haven't checked the head. I have a later model valve cover I was going to polish and put on it at some point -

It has an aluminum head, I think 1984, on it. I also picked up an extractor for it, has the weber carb.

It wasn't me. This engine went to Texas, a guy rebuilt it there and put it in an old Econoline van and put like 200 miles on it. The story i got was the econoline had a small radiator, and couldn't keep this engine cool, and the guy didn't want to hack in a larger radiator, so he sold it, to a guy in West Virginia that knows them pretty well. It sat for say a year, and he changed plans, so I bought it in the fall of 2016. I've had the pan off, it looks great inside, so i do think the engine is good to go, we shall see soon! Its been sitting here a bit, shame on me.

I wish it was a Stroppe Baja Bronco, but no, just a nice 66. The head work needed to keep the engine going was like $600 so I picked this up, should be a fun little engine for it, it was rebuilt and has a cam for torque more than HP. The Bronco is on 31" tires, 4.11 gears, 3 on the column, and I'm not changing anything, its too close to original. It sat for 12 years, I have only put like 20 miles on it. I'll have to post some pics once I get the engine in