dvfalcon

deankdx
The oil sender works resistance to ground.the ground is though the body of the sender as resistance changes oil pressure gauge changes. This being the case the wire should run from the sender to the cluster with no interference from supply or earth
 
“””””With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v).””””””””
 
cluster un plugged and. Wire off the oil sender
depending if multi meter or just a test lamp I would check if +12v is being introduced in to the wire, wire is shorted to +12 volt
Multimeter - place the black lead to earth and the red lead on the wire, if you measure 12v the the wire is shorted to +12volt. 
test lamp -  connect the clip on the lead to earth and touch the probe on the wire, if it lights up the wire is shorted to +12v
 
 
“”””””Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)”””””
 
Multimeter - place the red lead to +12v and the black lead to the wire, if you measure voltage the wire it is shorted to the earth.
testlamp - connect the clip on the lead to the wire and and the the probe to +12v, if it lights up the wire is shorted to earth.

The top original handle in your  first photo the plastic clip that holds the rod on is from a xf (rod has a90degreee bend in it. Xd/Xe rod had a S shape bend in it and goes through the eyelet grommet that came that came on the new one. I would say the hole drilled in the new arm is to large for the xf attachment. You could always make up anew rod but I would just repair you old one

I am sure the repo ones are all good, ben would not release them I Would buy them If I needed them. What I am saying I have seen genuine esp wheels and caps that don'T sit flush?
Dale

I am sure the repo ones are all good, ben would not release them I Would buy them If I needed them. What I am saying I have seen genuine esp wheels and caps that don'T sit flush?
Dale

Tibbe locks and barrel fit to xe  so xf should fit xg.
Dale

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

The bolts issue was it the good old 1/2 unc/bsw mix up

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

I did plenum repairs to my xe. Thought I had a little repair on lhs only . Once that was repaired discovered it was worse on the RHS.
To repar Rhs I removed halp the top. If I was doing another car any small rust in this area I would remove the the whole top, big job but peace of mind.
 
Dale

I did plenum repairs to my xe. Thought I had a little repair on lhs only . Once that was repaired discovered it was worse on the RHS.
To repar Rhs I removed halp the top. If I was doing another car any small rust in this area I would remove the the whole top, big job but peace of mind.
 
Dale

I did plenum repairs to my xe. Thought I had a little repair on lhs only . Once that was repaired discovered it was worse on the RHS.
To repar Rhs I removed halp the top. If I was doing another car any small rust in this area I would remove the the whole top, big job but peace of mind.
 
Dale

A few self tappers works a treat! If I remove gear box that a gearstick doesn't pull out or Once the self tapper mod is done, I pull the extention housing off.

Rear head board modification almost sorted. Decided to use the original material even tho it had some big dents from stuff moving around in its tray. Like most Utes, the tub has had a hard life. This will give me a heap more room.
 

 
Also got the radiator moved forward and down to allow room for the blower pulley and belt. I moved the lower brackets forward by re-drilling the holes and slots. Then I levered them down. This allowed the top of the radiator to tuck below the fold on the radiator support. Couple of bolts through some existing holes into the top flange of the radiator with rubber washers to dampen. I'm going to make a custom alloy shroud and mount some after market thermos to it. Tried the Ef style thermos and just could get them close enough to allow room for the blower belt.
 
The big yellow ruler in the photo is 50mm wide and the pulley and belt is only 32mm so plenty.

The one at the front of the arm rest under the handle is about 8g (gauge) phillips head self tapper 3/4 inch long and the two underneath are about 14g Phillips head 1 inch long
Dale

https://www.google.com.au/search?redir_esc=&client=tablet-android-samsung&hl=en-AU&oe=utf-8&safe=images&q=keyed+insert&source=android-browser-type&qsubts=1436424682805&action=devloc#imgrc=ziwcjZs5YPUobM%3A
 
KEYSERTS(KEENSERTS, LOCK IN INSERTS)
 
Not exactly what you have there but as a option you can try these. The hole is drilled and tapped larger than recoils, helicoil and may suit the hole you have left on the block. Once inserted the for pins get nocked in stopping it from un doing.
 
That looks like it may have been machined up an loctited in
 
Dale

So many variants I beleive they where cast in both oz and Nz. With some esp wheels the cap sits flush some their is step? The grey csps at the top some had the blue ford symbol in the blue. All grey EA , blue ED.

I have been experimenting stripping my xe back I found the best result using GPI stripper and hitting it with the high pressure wash. Have to repeat some parts 3 times. I then wash it down with KBS MARINE CLEAN AND etch it with KBS RUST BLAST
 
Dale

I have been experimenting stripping my xe back I found the best result using GPI stripper and hitting it with the high pressure wash. Have to repeat some parts 3 times. I then wash it down with KBS MARINE CLEAN AND etch it with KBS RUST BLAST
 
Dale

I have been experimenting stripping my xe back I found the best result using GPI stripper and hitting it with the high pressure wash. Have to repeat some parts 3 times. I then wash it down with KBS MARINE CLEAN AND etch it with KBS RUST BLAST
 
Dale

I have been experimenting stripping my xe back I found the best result using GPI stripper and hitting it with the high pressure wash. Have to repeat some parts 3 times. I then wash it down with KBS MARINE CLEAN AND etch it with KBS RUST BLAST
 
Dale

Chrome or black trim 7mm nut on end at mirror accessed inside door, these do rust and if unlucky will snap, if this happens when reattaching I driil out and arildite glue new stud in. and phillips head screw at b pillar end, take off mirror two screws on top of door frame and drill out pop rivits under bailey channel

Chrome or black trim 7mm nut on end at mirror accessed inside door, these do rust and if unlucky will snap, if this happens when reattaching I driil out and arildite glue new stud in. and phillips head screw at b pillar end, take off mirror two screws on top of door frame and drill out pop rivits under bailey channel

I used paint stripper, scrape and wash with thinners. Messy job !
Dale