Valvebouncer

i saw a rwd one that the person just joined the diff universal to the chopped tailshaft yoke and made solid control arms straight to the chassis rails diff wasn't even from the same type of car

a few pallets and some screws... 
 
never seen them for sale. i am going to make one for the gemini engine.. i want to keep spare.. just so i can fire it up from time to time

It’s a drain hole for the oil return from the turbo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid.  Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm.  
 
The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. 
 
The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work. 

that's what i do.. because i am not buying any taps for a thread that already exists

You are better off getting an old head bolt and cutting slots into it than using a tap. You run the risk if taking metal off the thread rather than cleaning the funk out
 
Funk = gunk

wares da pikcha

Please add pics, description, location and price as per forum rules or this thread will be locked
 
 

There should be a bigger gap at the crown than at the skirt. The crown cops the combustion blast and heat, there is more metal there. Therefore it expands the most. Don’t worry about it, just slap it together and get it in that Xf ute of yours.

There should be a bigger gap at the crown than at the skirt. The crown cops the combustion blast and heat, there is more metal there. Therefore it expands the most. Don’t worry about it, just slap it together and get it in that Xf ute of yours.

Ford has a durability regime for anything it sells, which is brutal and over and above most situations you and I would put our engines through. The aftermarket has merely word-of-mouth reputations to uphold (let's be honest, warranties are bullshit).

The Dart 4.125 blocks (and standard bore) are siamesed for strength but this design wasn't ideal in a daily/truck engine as cooling issues often pop up. Just ask anyone with a 400 Chev (not entirely the engine's fault though).

Manufacturers have to dial in a safety factor when spec'ing an engine, or anything for that matter. They take the point at which something fails and make their determined safe limit a mere fraction of that.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

As far as I know, ford small block cranks go like this: 
1M - 221/260/289
2m - 302
3M - 351W
4M - 351C
5M - 400
1K - 351M
 
But they normally appear in isolation, so that 3M21 mark likely has something to do with date.
 
I'm guessing:
3 = 1983
M = December
21 = 21st day
 
The E3AE on the cap is a part number. It means that this part was first produced in 1983.
 
E3 = 1983
A = full size passenger
E = engine
 
The casting date looks like November 20, 1983
 
Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

the other method of choosing(from gemini reading pages and pages of info) is fix the cheapest restrictions until you run out of budget.. 
so, gemini stock manifold is super crap aparentlly .. extractors fix this fairly cheap.. then better exhaust.. also cheap.. then camshaft/valve springs.. then ignition.. 
do you have any money left? better carby/intake/porting,compression and bigger cam again..
still want to over capitalize? there's far more from here.. 

on the windsor.. 
as Thom has suggested.. Headers.. exhaust..
what's the next crap thing? probably heads?(not sure) got any money left ... nope.. rest is stock then .. 

You need to know what you want from the engine, what heads, comp ratio you would like to run, rocker ratio, gearing, intake manifold, exhaust, what sort of power you are chasing all needs to be selected as one package otherwise you will end up with something that doesn't work very well and will leave you disappointed

It will fit but you want one to SUIT the 351

This is very generalized but with more capacity you can get away with a larger cam and still retain perfectly appropriate street manners, you would be better off looking at grinds to suit a 351 rather than a 302

Then maybe that one on the Windsor shouldn't overlap at all. Never noticed that gap to be honest. Sure they're not for a +40 engine or something? Am i seeing a taper on the end of one side of the rings, as if it was meant to overlap the other?
 
(edited)
 
Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

I think you should listen to the machine shop. As long as the spring fits in between the two rings without the overlap interfering, it's a non-issue. Remember the job of the oil ring is to scrape oil off, not seal. I don't think they should be butting up at all. That could be a recipe for disaster (locking up, etc)

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Hey all! I’ve finally got to the bottom of my timing issue, have pulled the dizzy and it has about 10-15mm of ‘up and down’ play in it.
 
I’m assuming that’s knackered! Lol
 
Only issue is I can’t seem to find any replacements. Any ideas?
 
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it’s going well .. wonder what kens thinking? Think we went to school together? Or that yellow 302 Mazda from the older brother  rings a bell from the 90s at saint patty’s blktwn? Great,  but show us some insight on how these times were achieved with the Bonnet up,
either way.. single 4brl?? 

Who owns it?

If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard.  
 
The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat.  As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here.  But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors......
 
The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it. 

Thanks for the encouragement Gents. Took the first steps today. Thought it would be easiest to eliminate the easy things first, so have removed the Intake, Plenum chamber and rocker cover. Have removed the rockers and checked the rods to ensure it’s not a bent rod (it’s not).
Some observations so far. It’s unnecessarily complex isn’t it, the Vacuum set up from the rocker cover. Took heaps of pics but much of it could be simplified.
The head (from the top) looks great, no buildup of gunk or anything else on the inside of the rocker cover or on the top of the head. I ran an oil flush through it before changing the oil and it seems to have done its job.
The prior owner had done a bit of work to it from time to time, fiddled with it a bit. However I’m not sure whether he put it back together well. About 1/2 the bolts on the rocker cover weren’t even finger tight. Maybe the issue is just a vacuum leak from the Rocker Cover?
The Charcol Canister line is full of oil. Must be a bit of blowby in the engine, maybe a complete strip and rebuild is on the cards?
I’ll keep going, planning to remove the head completely and get to the lifters next. Hopefully it’s just a dodgy lifter and not a cam lobe?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pros: Having people tell you how unique and different it is going down that route. More power than N/A

Cons: parasitic losses of a blower,boost rises with revs, it costs way more than the car is worth, limited resale market and therefore value if you ever change your mind, can't change boost level easily, throwing belts, less power and peak torque than a correctly sized turbo. There's way more runs on the board with turbocharging Ford 6's in both drag racing and street cars.

Ultimately it's your money, different people want different things for different reasons.

Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Because i dont wanna folow the trend and my garret ive got in the shed we are saving for my partner when we get her a datsun.... plus its more old skool and to me it fits better with the thought of power for me