CHESTNUTXE

@Thom may have an idea?

Then it's time for a stroker crank  

that is definatly an x file,maybe something was dropped on it or slightly dented the crank and someone did a small drill to smooth it out ? dont think its going to affect a std engine,just for a talking point DJ used to use a tiny drill bit on his forged pistons if they developed a crack so it would not go any further ,just goes to show how much of a budget the team was on in the early days.

Could be an improperly done brinnel (hardness) test

Hi all,
 
Would anybody please have the dimensions of the fog lights that were supplied from factory?
Also were they Bosch, Hella or something else?
 
Cheers
 
 
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Wow, what a pain!
 
I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans.
I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant,
but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks
 
My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts,
and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point).
 
Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?
 

custom fab is needed,and lots of money i threw 10k into a carby  engine and got 210 rwhp better tune would have seen maybe 240,most use the std barra turbo with good results,use std oil pump,no one makes large valves so ya have to turn down 2v clevo intakes and use chev 1.6 exhaust,you can throw 3k easy at a crossflow head to make that kind of power you are talking about,yes either ef crank or std 250 crank,another thing to consider is 3 or 4 bolt balancer ,i would start with a 84da block it has 1 piece rear main seal and larger flywheel bolts.

Looks like the weight of the engine is pushing the 2 mounts in towards each other. When they're bolted in they tend to "hang" spreading apart. As Chestnut said, the aftermarket Clevo sumps can be a bad fit, I've fitted a couple, and had to trim, grind, elongate holes etc.  It's just symptom of the non genuine market. Got an old original sump you can slide in, just to see if it fits better.??
 

yes i have had that problem a few times with after market mounts,just grind them back a bit to give a little clearance,i also got 1 mount that was made upsidedown yeah it still bolted on but looks a bit like the first picture you have,something dont look right there.

Another day another problem. I'm trying to get a new oil pan onto my 351C and the engine mounts are interfering with the flange of the sump, preventing it from fitting. Is this a case of cheap engine mounts that are incorrectly shaped or what? See these pictures, notice how the engine mounts curve inwards toward the flage. Are they supposed to look like this?
 
In case you're wondering how the old oil pan fit, the flange has been damaged by the engine mounts and it was very difficult to remove.
 

 

in My experience most borg warner diff V8s were 2.92 (9" had 2.75) 
there's only 5% difference to them. 
2.92 at 100kmh would be about  2400rpm
2.77 at 100 would be 2300 ish
3.45 XR6 diff you have should be 2850rpm 
3.23 XR8 diff would be about 2650/2700rpm 
 
if you have a ready to fit 2.92 diff, just chuck it in,
2.77 isn't enough difference to be worried about even on a 6cyl 99% of the time. 
 

I have just recently converted my XE from a 6 to the 351 V8. Having drum brakes on the rear I fitted an XR6 rear end so that I could stop. I took the car out for a run and was doing about 2700 revs at 100kmh. Wanting it for a cruiser and not needing it quick off the mark I looked at the diff ratio. I believe what is currently in is a1-345 which would have been coupled to a 4 speed box. I am about to change it to a 2.92 but I have been told that the V8 actually had a 2.77. But I have been told that 2.77 will not go in a Borg Warner housing. I am not unrealistic, I did not convert the car for economy and having a new 650 Holley it will use fuel. But if I can just decrease the revs a little at highway speeds I would be happy. Any idea's welcomed.
Thanks Sacko7

The 2.77 is NOT lame..however i am having to go through the gears to fast , the ratio is too low, I have an AU /several actually, with around the same HP, and the ratios being 3.23/3.45 are better suited to the HP..I want the XF to run out longer as the engine runs out near 5400 RPM, I want the diff to run out longer..

what do you mean run out longer?
 
2.77 with an auto will do say 90kmh ish in 1st gear at 5400rpm
3.23 by comparison might be around 70kmh.  (but will take off faster) 

Hi Spack,
 
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications
 
Apparently some XE 4.1L diff centres were 3.23:1, according to this website. You'll have to go looking for a needle in a haystack I imagine.

ok thanks..might have to change the whole thing..

Would like to change the diff ratio in my XF, I believe its a 2.77..just to low for me, Is there a 3.23 diff centre, that I can put straight in...

Back space of wheels lately  has really got my interest,especialy in x series,trying to fit 8 inch wide rims on my xe is not as easy as it sounds,back in the day you could buy 14x8 12 slots from bob jane with zero ET or 4 inch backspace, which would work on the front,as the 14x8 hotwires had a -6 ET,and did not fit correct ,well they did but came within 1mm of hitting suspension bits,generaly speaking most ford factory wheels in the 6 to 7 inch have a backspace of 3 and 3/4 or +6 ET,0 ET will work but cutting it fine,+ 4 or 5 i would prefer.

I'm replacing the timing cover and crank seal. I found this post on another forum that indicates I can get away without using the lower rubber seal. I gave this a crack and it's leaking worse than when I started. It's NOT leaking from the corners, just the lower sump surface.
 
Has anyone used this method successfully? I'm guessing I just didn't use enough high temp sealer. I have the rubbers so I can use them if I need to, but I had a wanker of a time getting them in without lowering the sump.

Yeah, not convinced.   I did mine last year on the XA, absolute bitch to get the rubber seal in place, while holding the timing cover, lining up the dowel pins, etc..  I sanded off the small lip on the outside of the rubber, (made it thinner) and it went in easier. VERY clean is the key.!  Paint thinners or acetone to remove all oil residue. Silastics/sealants wont stick to oil. Also, aftermarket sumps don't fit the best, prefer old originals.

this makes me believe they are standard length shocks , 
big bore(handle the stronger springs) and short stroke (stop the shock bottoming out and also retain the spring better) would be the go. 
you'll be amazed at what new(good quality) shocks do to a falcon

Thanks for all of the advice and discussion folks it's been really helpful. I lifted the car and the spring easily popped back into its saddle. Not sure what caused it to pop out and what I can do to prevent it in the future 🤔
 
@deankxf thanks for the advice on the shocks - I will start searching for a replacement pair ASAP. I've replaced every single bearing, ball joint and bushing under the car so it makes sense to finish it off with new shocks.
 
Regarding the rubber on the spring saddles, that came like that with the Rare Spares complete bushing and ball joint kit.

never seen it, in at least 50 cars i've poked around with(including at wreckers)

those pics show the springs are BEEFY, i suspect not cut stock ones. and it's seated on the saddle well with surprisingly rubber pads under(never seen anyone do that before)

THE SHOCKER IS STUFFED (covered in oil) this could be the noise, i'd remove it and see how stuffed it actually is
 
Ride height looks at LOWS height, which is a good height for drivability, bump stop clearance looks sufficient also and hasn't been pounded away from a soft spring.. 

fit some BIG BORE short stroke shocks,  there's budget ones on ebay AU, but if you can stretch for Koni brand they were the choice back in the day (i've only had Pedders branded ones, which i liked)