matt_lamb_160

My XE ghia had one of those when i got it, seemed to work ok..
looks heaps restrictive.though.
the ugly Impco 300a setup was the best i had on a 6cyl. far more reliable when new too.

I told a story about a log once and got banned from Xfalcon

600 DP for the win. With the comp, duration and lift and narrow lobe sep it will hit hard. 650 maybe be too big for lift

Nice Sean. You can see the gains in the short turn and also in increasing the bowl and throat x sectional area. But really a pretty good runner from standard.

Thanks, as wagoon said all went well apart from some sort of gearbox oil leak car ran strong and felt good, it kind of caught me off guard on the first pass pushed me into the seat it seamed, not sure weather that was from 11 months not driving it or a new more stable seat!!
 
So 1st run was just a click second gear and coast checkout pass came back then checked everything over then ran;
 
11.762 @ 115.04
11.749 @ 114.86
11.732 @ 115.08
 
The car is abit off in the 60' and 330' for my liking but will sort that out it is back halving faster then the old engine already even on that 1st full pass so pleased with that as well.
 
The fastest the xflow ever did was 114.4mph on the hard cut and never did it again so speed is already up just need to get it off the line quicker and we'll be in  the ball park.
 
Overall pretty happy its, 1 going and 2 turning pretty decent times. Now I just have to go through about 200mb of data logs!!! information overload...

All finished (for Now)
 

 
 

 
 

Might change the way it gets off the line ?!?!
 

Sean while you are at it - with the throttle plate screws convert them over to button head - you will pick up another couple of cfm. 

Now for some bigger gains, webber carby mods. Without changing the venturi size or throttle blades you can make a webber flow just as much as a stock 350 holley. just by cleaning up the imperfections in the venturi casting and gasket matching the whole thing you can gain just over 10cfm of flow through the carb,
 


 
Here is the big gain that I will share, I got the throttle shafts machined down a bit, I got it machined only as wide as the throttle blades and down level with the flat parts that the screws fix to, then the same amount off the other side, I did this to both shafts.
 
Original shaft
 

 
Machined shafts
 



 
On the flow bench this gave a 34cfm gain so with the other cleanup this carb now flows 308cfm, once I get my carb top back I will test it again and I'm confident it will go over the 350 holley flow rate of 320cfm.
This is the prototype of my webber carb top.
 

http://www.bridgeracing.com/brstore/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=185

I'm stupid but don't give a f

Dizzy driven off the front of the cam? Picture of a 4.6l V8 done like it on the net somewhere. Or make up a belt driven dizzy.
 
Do it man, it'll be cool.

Dizzy driven off the front of the cam? Picture of a 4.6l V8 done like it on the net somewhere. Or make up a belt driven dizzy.
 
Do it man, it'll be cool.

Hi all just an update on times ran 11.04@119.10 mph today  and 6.96 to half track.
getting closer to that 10 sec pass.

Wow, that's a bit aggressive. We were just offering our opinion just like you did

My apologies Matt. 
 
Sometimes I go a little to far when I believe strongly in something and yeah that reply was a bit over the top. 
 
For me it's all about risk management.  The OP does not state the purpose of this engine but your advice in the second last sentence of post #18 makes good sense. 
 
SLO247 - make up your own mind bud - I'm out. 

Bakelite spacer made and fitted.
 

Im with cyco. Crossy bolts arnt torque to yeild and are not required to be replaced. Thats coming from my mate that owns All Torque Cylinder head engineering. I have also done plenty of head gaskets and have never replaced them. Obviously I run studs in mine though lol. Good point on the thread pulling up ando.

X-Fow head Bolts ARE NOT torque to yield Bolts and can be used several times. you Dont torque them to specified angles you torque them in a series of steps read below or google it.
 
 
 
http://www.aagaskets.com.au/PDF/AA006%20Torque%20To%20Yield%20Head%20Bolts.pdf
 
 

I ran multi grooves for 2 years in my old engine it had a 600thow solid in it and 130 350 at 600 springs in it. im not saying run with it this is just how long they lasted for me

One thing i always did was take a very good look at the valve tip every time i checked the rockers, and somtimes pull some springs to look at the groves in the end they did start to  bur up the groove but that was about 25.000km in  

No one did a off the shelf single groove valve for a 250 back when i started with them in 2003 so i ran what i could find, they will last for a while just keep looking at them. standed valves seem to be a no no i tryed it a while ago and they pull them thru very fast i had to replace valves before 5000km standed valves dont seem to be any good for big springs and revs but cheap fun and took a fair while to rack up 5000km on that engine

I have run multi groove valves on my speedway engines for the last 6 years without an issue.  This engine has .584" lift and regularly sees 6000 rpm for extended periods and I have never had an issue, even using old locks. 
 
The reason is that I have good (Isky) valve springs and correct pressures.  If you run massive seat and open pressure then single groove valves with quality locks are mandatory - and seeing as most people over spring their engines this seems to be the reason for their recommendation.
 
So to answer your question - no there will not be an issue to use them in the short time.

If you don't want to flog out dizzy gears and brass bush's in your distributor and feed your top end way too much oil - then yes a standard volume pump is the solution. 
JP is okay but pull the pump apart when you get it and make sure it is free from metal swarth - they are prone to leaving a bit in there, for shits and giggles I assume.  You can also knock in the relief plug a fraction.  2mm on a street engine will be plenty. 

Last time I checked Camtech were cheaper than Crow and they will ship the cam to you.
 
Hope your bottom end is good.