Stu5766

Pffft what tech rep would turn away someone with a fistful of dollars? Even if you don't gain any top end at all, you can't not improve the driveability with both the programmable side of it and the MSD function, which operates below 3000 rpm. You can somewhat compensate for a big carby (poor low speed atomisation) because the spark gets up to 6 goes at it each time.

Theres no need to run mag wheels or a modified engine either but to get the best from it and gain better economy,easier starting,better idle low speed manners a CDI box is a good idea imo. Even in locked form the car would like it...

Any form of restriction in an exhaust creates " back pressure "
You want as little back pressure as possible, how ever a small amount can assist with scavenge.
On a standard pressed metal system, I doubt that knocking out the baffle would have a negative effect on performance.

Sounds like a stout combo with exception to the HV pump. Not needed in any Ford 6 or 8 due to the factory one being more than adequate. Much discussion has been made on here of this issue already if you want to trawl through it.
 
Couple more things:
3.9s on std ratio top loader would give about 45-50km/h in 1st, so unless the car is exceptionally heavy, taller diff gears would be quicker. Either that or go auto.
 
Would obviously benefit from a programmable ignition box, but you can add that later.
 
Few more questions:
What comp are you running?
What are exact cam specs?
 
 
In any case, vid of it running when done!

Just reading back, you have a BA header tank?
Does your radiator have a cap or is it completely sealed??
I've seen people get the radiator fill cap mixed up with the header tank recovery style cap & lead to all sorts of issues.

I used bearing blue, but same sort of deal gerg.

yep they would keep the same size on the stroker crank.  If you go to your local bearing shop you will get one way cheaper.  Most bearing shop blokes that have been around for a bit will know it off the top of their heads

How did you fit the bearing retainers on the axles??
I hope you didn't use an oxy.
I knew of a wanker who calls himself a mechanic.
Used an oxy to fit the bearing retainers.
Axle slid out of the housing whilst going around a corner.
Made a mess of the rear quarter on an XW.

Good thing you didn't have to hammer the shit out of the shims to get them in (I assume). I've heard of someone smashing a shim trying that.
 
Did you check backlash and/or tooth contact? Doesn't have to be perfect but if it's way out, that's another noise created. I just use a bit of spray paint on the crown teeth and wind it over a few times back and forth to see the tooth pattern.

Good job bud,I like it.

Cheers for the compliments guys.
It's a bit calmer now with the hotdogs.
It still sounds nice and angry, but I would have got booked for sure.
It was like 95db at idle!

Cheers for the compliments guys.
It's a bit calmer now with the hotdogs.
It still sounds nice and angry, but I would have got booked for sure.
It was like 95db at idle!

its n easy conversion, just ditch the efi manifold n fit a 4 brrl manifold n hot wire the dizzy and itl be in an running before you know it, no wiring loom nothing using the xw stock wiring
 
if you need more info please ask.
ive got a wiring short cut here for the dizzy, etc
 
you can use old x series v8 engine mounts as the still bolt to the new windsor ,

Tacho is there purely to activate the shift light.
Since it's a reputable brand that I got for free, it was better than getting a cheap Chinese stand alone shift light.
Running at the creek I want to get the change as close to a certain RPM as possible.

The motor will bolt in like any other early Windsor.
You will require to override the smart lock or smart shield as fitted to later AU's. There are a few options in doing this.
if you maintain the BTW auto, you may need to mod the cross member & tailshaft.
You could bolt an early C4 or toploader with the early bellhousing, you just need a 50oz flywheel/flex plate. Doing this will not require crossmember or tailshaft swap.
You could swap the from dress to run V belts or set your car up with power steering ( I'd go rack conversion ) & run the serpentine belt.
I spoken in depth with a couple engineers regarding brakes, vented front discs & drums on the rear were sufficient to stop a 351 clevo, so getting it to pull up a 5.0 litre injected Windsor won't be an issue.
At the end of the day, the only thing the engineer would be looking at is the injection, since the origins & capacity of that motor was readily available in 1969 in the form of 302 Windsor.
( flat tappet, carby version ).

Exhaust guys no doubt earn their money, because it's a prick of a job, but cash is better in my pocket.
Considering I got all the materials for a full mandrel system for around 500 bucks.

I decided to upgrade my exhaust to make it breath better.
After some phone calls, I worked out that I could purchase all the bits to make a mandrel bent system cheaper than paying a shop to fit a pressed metal system.
So the fun began.


 

I decided to upgrade my exhaust to make it breath better.
After some phone calls, I worked out that I could purchase all the bits to make a mandrel bent system cheaper than paying a shop to fit a pressed metal system.
So the fun began.


 

I decided to upgrade my exhaust to make it breath better.
After some phone calls, I worked out that I could purchase all the bits to make a mandrel bent system cheaper than paying a shop to fit a pressed metal system.
So the fun began.


 

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/stu5766/Mobile%20Uploads/th_trim.AC2973A1-3D5D-4A82-B525-AA291BDEC747.mp4
This sound clip was when it had mufflers only.
I decided to run a couple of 15" hot dogs to calms it down a it.

Yep i run thermos, msd 6530, astra pump, ect and mine runs fine with a EB v8 alternator

My oldman had a similar problem with his '62 compact.
Instead of butchering his chassis rail, he filled, drilled & tapped his steering box to allign to the chassis.
He then got a tool maker to " burn a spline " into the compact pitman arm to match his XD steering box.
The oldman is an engineer, so this is pretty straight forward for him.
Hope this helps.
Cheers stu.

thanks again

Just to add, the steering box that came out was an XY 16:1.
He got lines made up & used an X series " tin can " pump.

My oldman had a similar problem with his '62 compact.
Instead of butchering his chassis rail, he filled, drilled & tapped his steering box to allign to the chassis.
He then got a tool maker to " burn a spline " into the compact pitman arm to match his XD steering box.
The oldman is an engineer, so this is pretty straight forward for him.
Hope this helps.
Cheers stu.