LJDB

Looks to have got hot on the exhaust side. Pinged a couple times when I first got it going. Ring gaps where enlarged.
 

i ran a vf marloo the other day in my basic turbo xflow corty and left him for dead both times. At the next set of lights he ask's whats in it? i reply just a turbo 6 and he looked at me stupidly waiting for me to say barra. Then said yeah but what. I said just an XF motor. Ha Ha the look on his face was priceless

i ran a vf marloo the other day in my basic turbo xflow corty and left him for dead both times. At the next set of lights he ask's whats in it? i reply just a turbo 6 and he looked at me stupidly waiting for me to say barra. Then said yeah but what. I said just an XF motor. Ha Ha the look on his face was priceless

i ran a vf marloo the other day in my basic turbo xflow corty and left him for dead both times. At the next set of lights he ask's whats in it? i reply just a turbo 6 and he looked at me stupidly waiting for me to say barra. Then said yeah but what. I said just an XF motor. Ha Ha the look on his face was priceless

Any pics of the d Chamber?

Iv seen some without a bolt and the last time I tried taking a powerbond street balancer off it was a pain in the ass even with a puller.

yes ol m8 at the machine shop drilled my late model flywheel out to suit the 84da engine

i just fitted a xr six clutch to my crossy and single rail with hyd fork set up and EL flywheel.

Hi guys, im in need of a quality clutch to suit a turbo xflow in a cortina. i currently have a clutch industries HD clutch and it isnt up to the task since going turbo. Cortina is a street car thats get driven on the weekends. what have people used over the years? cheers

The part number on the pistons generally tell you if it’s oversize. Nothing wrong with over sizing as long as it’s not overboard

Ford changed the exhaust valve size on the later xflows. Did the port change aswell.

how much hp would your typical stock alloy head flow?

Iv just built one that sounds very similar to what ur going to do. I used standard crank and rod (arp rod bolts) with Mahle 28cc pistons, .020 over and zero decked. Standard unmarked efi head with valve springs, rollers and an old na cam I had laying around(222@.050 .510 lift 108lsa).
i got a gt3582 of a territory turbo super cheap and made up myself a split pulse log manifold and internal wastegate dump pipe
i found some info on fitting a e-series ecu and efi setup into a xflow and went down that path. Using a j3 chip in a EL ecu with generic tune ATM And i can't complain one bit. Fires up first go when dead cold, goes super good and runs smooth. I plan to tune it myself with a data logger just haven't got around to it as the generic tune is pretty good and fat ATM.
havent had it on a dyno or know a power figure but power curve seems similar to xelistys yellow xe. Running 7psi it will pull to 5 but starts to fall flat around 4500. I dropped the diff gears from 3.7 to 3.23 and might even try 2.92. Mines in a corty and will light the rear tyres easy but can cruise around off boost all day long.

Yeah Iv played with the boost tee and worked out a way around the 10 psi but will probably stay under 10 or around 10 due to the basically stock bottom end. It's pretty easy I just put a one way emission purge valve on the line to the map sensor. I put it all together with bits and pieces I had laying around and parts of my n/a engine. I've upgraded the injectors, using a quality fpr, msd street fire and a bosch 044 pump.

Iv just built one that sounds very similar to what ur going to do. I used standard crank and rod (arp rod bolts) with Mahle 28cc pistons, .020 over and zero decked. Standard unmarked efi head with valve springs, rollers and an old na cam I had laying around(222@.050 .510 lift 108lsa).
i got a gt3582 of a territory turbo super cheap and made up myself a split pulse log manifold and internal wastegate dump pipe
i found some info on fitting a e-series ecu and efi setup into a xflow and went down that path. Using a j3 chip in a EL ecu with generic tune ATM And i can't complain one bit. Fires up first go when dead cold, goes super good and runs smooth. I plan to tune it myself with a data logger just haven't got around to it as the generic tune is pretty good and fat ATM.
havent had it on a dyno or know a power figure but power curve seems similar to xelistys yellow xe. Running 7psi it will pull to 5 but starts to fall flat around 4500. I dropped the diff gears from 3.7 to 3.23 and might even try 2.92. Mines in a corty and will light the rear tyres easy but can cruise around off boost all day long.

Iv just built one that sounds very similar to what ur going to do. I used standard crank and rod (arp rod bolts) with Mahle 28cc pistons, .020 over and zero decked. Standard unmarked efi head with valve springs, rollers and an old na cam I had laying around(222@.050 .510 lift 108lsa).
i got a gt3582 of a territory turbo super cheap and made up myself a split pulse log manifold and internal wastegate dump pipe
i found some info on fitting a e-series ecu and efi setup into a xflow and went down that path. Using a j3 chip in a EL ecu with generic tune ATM And i can't complain one bit. Fires up first go when dead cold, goes super good and runs smooth. I plan to tune it myself with a data logger just haven't got around to it as the generic tune is pretty good and fat ATM.
havent had it on a dyno or know a power figure but power curve seems similar to xelistys yellow xe. Running 7psi it will pull to 5 but starts to fall flat around 4500. I dropped the diff gears from 3.7 to 3.23 and might even try 2.92. Mines in a corty and will light the rear tyres easy but can cruise around off boost all day long.

Xflows r bullet proof and plenty of good second hand parts around. I just built a turbo xflow out of good used aftermarket bits and pieces I had laying around. Goes super good and was dirt cheap to put together. 

U will be lucky to get stuff for a AU from a dealer these days.

a 650dp is not a 2 barrel. I'd still be taking the sump and rocker cover off, Cheap insurance. I'm not having a go but $1500 is $1500. Xflow's always come up for sale at good prices and pretty much run forever. 
 

The one at the show wasn't pro250 car ive seen that one. This one was bone stock, no plenum, no tfi with a 5 speed. nothing fancy just a clean street car.

I spoke to a bloke at a car show over the weekend with a XE gas research xflow turbo. Stock motor, only valve springs. XE mech ignition with redline manifold, Steam pipe runner turbo manifold and t66 turbo( looked ebay spec). Made a safe 180kw at the wheels. Told to upgrade his ignition and retune.   

Seen this beast for myself today. Little ripper of a car and one of the better examples at small fords. I was gonna say hello but didnt know who to speak too as there where always people around it

So I've started the process. I picked up a engine wiring loom from battery to ecu off a eb mpfi 3.9 without smart lock and all the sensors required. Also sourced a xf inlet manifold and e2 head. I've removed any unwanted wires from the ecu and loom and dummied it up on the floor. I don't have a xf dizzy except for the one in the car ATM but I hooked up the old TFI module to the loom and earthed out the pip signal to trip the ecu as if it was the dizzy and the injectors operated. Also when I power the ignition wire the fuel pump relay and isc operated then switch off as expected. So everything seems pretty straight forward so far.
it should be a matter of using the original ignition, starter circuits and oil and coolant temp sensors for the dash, then everything else the eb loom.

Supposed to Be ok up to 10psi for e series map

So I've started the process. I picked up a engine wiring loom from battery to ecu off a eb mpfi 3.9 without smart lock and all the sensors required. Also sourced a xf inlet manifold and e2 head. I've removed any unwanted wires from the ecu and loom and dummied it up on the floor. I don't have a xf dizzy except for the one in the car ATM but I hooked up the old TFI module to the loom and earthed out the pip signal to trip the ecu as if it was the dizzy and the injectors operated. Also when I power the ignition wire the fuel pump relay and isc operated then switch off as expected. So everything seems pretty straight forward so far.
it should be a matter of using the original ignition, starter circuits and oil and coolant temp sensors for the dash, then everything else the eb loom.