Squid

if you're only doing a 1" drop then any balljoint should be fine, just pop the rubber booth off and have a look and see if it has the notches to allow enough travel, you can probably buy it from http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8142 shoot them an email with size but the 3 bolt should drop straight in 

That's way too little clearance between the bump stops and upper control arm. I'd be putting the shitty rubber ones back in and cutting them in half. It's still gonna ride like shit but it won't be as back breaking as before.
 
Looks like you have 2 problems, literally the same ones as I have -
 
1. It's hitting the bump stops way too early.
2. Those shocks are too firm so over the smaller bumps they don't compress and do their job.
 
Cut the stops in half and change the shocks and you're golden.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but there's no really good reason to have Nolathane bump stops, it's not gonna make the car handle better, costs more and will make it slightly harder when the control arm does hit them.
 
 
AFAIK all the bump stops do is stop the shocks bottoming out, since you have shortened shocks there's no need for full length bump stops. There's no disadvantage to cutting them, just try to do it straight (like the stock ones).

When I did the front end in my xe the only bits where I used nolathane on was the spring saddles and they were the ones that fucked out first. I'd go rubber again. In saying that the blue super pro stuff is meant to be pretty good a bit firmer than rubber but not as stupidly harsh as nolathane.

I have Nolathane castor rod bushes, sway bar links, sway bar mounts in the ute, everything else is rubber.
 
Handles firm and tight, little rough but it does have superlow springs in it.

Caster bar and swaybar link pin bushes, I would replace with Polyurethane.
All others, stick with Rubber bushes.

on the right hand side around the vent just above your feet  itl be rotten full of rust an ford in the wisdom put the only planuim drain on that side ,i hope for your sake its only got mud n shit built up in there ,but ill go with rust and rott

I did mine in the Zl recently vacuumed it wasn't bad as I did it probably a year ago then sprayed fish oil every ehere.

This isn't done for a comfort purpose actually. The reason why all the new idler arms are one side urethane and the other side rubber is because the rubber acts like a return spring that helps center the steering after going around a corner. This is why in the workshop manual it states that the steering wheel must be in the straight ahead position before tightening the idler arm bolts. If you look at the idler arm bush on the rubber side it has teeth that grab into the steering leakage and thus creating tension when the steering wheel is turned.

One trick I sort of remember with the radius rod donuts is to compromise and do one side of the rod in urethane and the other in rubber. I can't remember exactly which goes where but I'd assume the softer one goes on the front (outside) and harder on the rear (inside) to reduce deflection when the arm loads up on turns, but still has some compliance. The softer bush on the front can compress as the arm is forced backwards when hitting a bump.

So the S/L king springs that I've bought aren't going to work?
So if I got KFFL-0 with the same shocks it'd be okay?
And how do some people get them so low and safe?

if you download the King Springs catalogue from their website they'll tell you the minimum damper you should use.
 
Again the S/L is not a road spring, it's not on the catalogue as it's not legal to use on the street but more importantly it's too dangerous to use on the street. You see others using it which is at their own peril. 
 
If you do want to lower it properly it's not cheap. You will need to get aftermarket upper control arms which give you about 1 inch, then ring Kmac or King and ask them for 900 pound spring, they will ask you to measure centre of hub to guard and you will give them this measurement and they will make the spring for you, you then buy some adjustable dampers (koni/bilstein) and tell your damper guru the spring rate and weight of your car and they will put the right valve in, you then install the shebang and get a wheel alignment an happy days..... it won't be as low as you want thou! but pending you do the same with the rear it will out handle a Bx/FG

Had a look at those pics, got to agree with the guys, you got no room for suspension to work properly. Accident waiting to happen.
Springs are waay too short.
Cutting bump stops is fooling yaself that ya fixed it.
No compromise for correct shocks and spring rates.
Jack.

he just needs to lower the car properly! Super Lows are NOT for street or track, they are for shows, simple as that. You should of used the KFFL-0 with a shortened damper as recommended by King. 
You can get lower than the KFFL-0, another half inch but you will need a much better damper and about 900 pound spring

Tas Fire service must've wanted a base model then haha

Got her back today, new sender in the dizzy, starts 1st time, runs a bit rough when she's cold but glad if starts well now!

good news bro,

Found out that there wasn't enough flow of coolant (obvious)
And the sender in the dizzy was shot
Should be good tommorow !!

Found out that there wasn't enough flow of coolant (obvious)
And the sender in the dizzy was shot
Should be good tommorow !!

Found out that there wasn't enough flow of coolant (obvious)
And the sender in the dizzy was shot
Should be good tommorow !!

just bang a turbo on it problem solved lol

Sounds good!

Awesome thanks so much! <br />Can you please work out to postage to port elliot SA 5212, and chuck me a pm?

Yes. Yes we do!

Thanks for all this guys!

Thanks for all this guys!