broken-wheel

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

I'd  steam clean the head, blue it and lap the valve and see what the seat looks like but that valve job looks shit, can't see a pictures of the valves thou maybe someone did put a .100 seat on it but if you look below you see what I mean
 
probably head work was one on a friday

Start at 24 degrees with that head, can't see the pistons so don't know what dish you have but those heads with any dish will not be too happy over 28 degree with your static compression. From the pics I see a few things that are disturbing:
 
1. Your seat. Way too wide looks like .100  and I don't know anyone who puts a face of more than .050 on a valve. This will do two things: will build carbon around the seat and it will not seal properly and you will loose flow, massive amount at low lift.
 
2. Carbon build up is huge with will only increase the issues in 1.
 
 
I think from one photo ... this one:
 

 
you can see the seat being founded up with carbon
 
If this head is relatively new I would go back and have some serious worlds with the dickhead who did work on it
 
Ditch the avenger and go Double Pumper
 
See int his pic: 

 
The accelerator arm is right on the edge, looks like you have to align it

another option for injection is to go for the Ducati ITB's, they are 48mm, have easy to setup throttle linkage and 2 ITB's are like $130 USD so for under 1k you should have the complete shit bolted up to an xflow then worry about ECU's etc
 
I was looking at the ITB option and Webers but the price is too high and can't be re-used if you move up as in the webers won't fit a clevo, nor the ITB's so not interested
what was interesting is that EFI hardware have this rating:
48mm - 64HP/48KW* per throttle
 
so in a perfect world 64*6 is 384HP now we know you can get the VE above 100% with a decent cam/exhaust combo so with a 48mm throttle you'll get 410HP max which is what I've seen Mossy get on his motor on the dyno. It looks like his Webers are 50mm, can't judge from the video but yeah food for thought
 
Imho for little money going multi carb is not an easy option as just tuning two holley's is going to be a nightmare, the Webers are easy to tune as they have individual throats but the 350H don't so you'd have to make shift something, imho it's going to be a half arsed job and not worth it unless you;re a fab gun and can fab 3 J pipes going into a small plenum for 1x 350 and repeat for the other 3 cyl  but then you'd still be cheaper and probably ahead with the Aussie Speed manifold and a 4 barrel on top
 
I've tested this Aussie Speed Manifold and once you port it it's not a bad piece of kit, it really starts to flow and outflows the port if you are inclined to go that far. Mark said not to port the 4barrel manifold but I think he is wrong there, the shape of the manifold makes it look like a huge plenum which is much better than the Cain etc. so you can open up the ports and let it breath and you still keep ok distribution. He did a good job on designing this thing.
 
For under 1k you can setup an Aussie Speed and 4bbl (2nd hand and rebuilt) and there is no way you can get the same HP from anything else for the same money, period. Lets not kid ourselves  
 
also with custom ITB's etc. you'll end up having to spend a bomb on filtration etc.

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

even 10 should be ok, i tend to use the light up fuses now and i like them a lot, the small trigger 12v red wire only draws like 250 mA 
pro tip, don't ever connect the MSD heavy red wire to a relay

even 10 should be ok, i tend to use the light up fuses now and i like them a lot, the small trigger 12v red wire only draws like 250 mA 
pro tip, don't ever connect the MSD heavy red wire to a relay

I put 30A on the Heavy red and goes straight to battery
I put 5A on the trigger red wire and goes to my ignition switch 
I got the Heavy Black straight to negative
 
the big heavy red wire according to MSD chews 1amp per 1k rpm with the 5 series, if you run the 7 series then they recommend 25 or 30 amp as you might run a lot of things from shift light (up to 3 amp) etc.

i think he is going for the 389 cam with a little more aggressive ramp rate but again the cam is just one small thing
 
regarding lift, you can get it to flow past 600 and hold it to 650 but it's hard because you have to shape the port like a D on its side while it goes around as the ports aren't straight or else you hit water, this is a nightmare and you can't possibly add more cfm without basically tracing the water jacket, if you fill the port with melted rubber then pull it out and you measure the circumference of the smallest part of the port you'll see it flows under 127cfm at 10", this is right before the short turn so doing anything in the bowl etc is pointless at mid to high lift, you gain some low lift but that's about it, i think the guy from WA who said you get 300 hp from his heads was full of shit if he only did pocket work, just opening up the area before the short turn by 1mm gives you 132cmf at 10" for 5min with a die grinder and absolutely nothing else, you go 3 mill and you hit water thou so you have to get an inverted D where the straight line is the floor
 
I really like to see this engine go, are you going to have it done before the winter ?

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php
 
I'm actually surprised at the amount of people using the HPR30, i would not use 60 grade oil in any freshly machined engine not unless the machinist was high, when that oil is hot at 60w and you don't have a windage tray you're probably loosing 20HP right there and even with a windage tray 60W is way too much when hot, too much stress on the oil pump and dizzy and here is another theory I have, why bother balancing a crank when you spin it to 6-7k with 60W oil?

if you need 45 degrees of timing then that's something gone wrong ....must be open chamber iron head?
 
the reason i used the 7 is because the HSV2 coil it needs will pump out 1 amp sparks which was needed for silly comp on E85, i also wanted to try LPG turbo down the track so it was the right choice for an ignition box
 
yeah the vacuum/boost is nice, specially when you tune your carb for cruise, start retard is awesome as well, you get away with a small braille/dekka battery for startup, like 5kg batter will start a high comp xlflow with no issue 
 
really i think every warm crossflow should get the programable 6 msd

should not use anything between the pump and the block

going to revive this a little and say that in my experience pulling 2 degrees in the last 800rpm made a bit of a difference and increased power, all in at 6200 (31) then drop to 29 degree from 6200 to 7000 also you don't need a lot of dots as it interpolates between them (i'm running a 7 series)
 
the 7 series has a lot of smarts like 1 timing curve per gear and slew rate, so for example you don't use any slew and stomp on your loud pedal and yeah you get some wheel spin and get to about 100km/h then you look at the data and see where the wheel spin is and start adding dots until you're happy, you basically limit the amount of rpm vs time until you eliminate wheel spin, it's like a rev limiter vs time, you allow you engine to jump from 2000 rpm to 6000rpm in 4 seconds
 
now this might sound crude but you can also do this via retard so instead of rpm limiting you can retard your timing based on what gear you are in so you can get some pretty decent traction control on the street, i know it's useless the track but on the street this is so fucking cool, if it's raining you don't swap ends
 
a lot of people don't use the MAP sensor but you should use it, keep in mind the MSD software reads in PSIA not PSI Use the MAP sensor to tune your carb, you basically use it as a vacuum gauge and with the data logging (not sure if the 6 series has it but the 7 series has about half minute) you can do full runs and review it, see where the 2ndary open and tune those, also you see how much vacuum you got a full throttle, this is quite hard when you have to watch the road but this way you just pull over and replay the run another cool thing you can do is use the MAP sensor to retard ignition and get crackle pop on downshifts, specially when you have a manual, retard to 5 degrees on xx PSIA and bang! you'll be the coolest kid on the block
 
some guys use the built in shift light to trigger Co2 shifters, use the burnout rev limit to save a lot of your engine in the burnout pre race, no need to spin past 5000 rpm to heat the rears once you wrap your head round the MSD box you realise this fucking this is awesome! and while it's no Haltech/Motec/MS it can do some really cool shit for example with the 7 series you can get the optical trigger which hooks up to spark plug 1 wire and tells the MSD when it fires, you nov how per individual cylinder timing, how does this help? well if you run the stock intake manifold then you can tune for the 1 and 6 cylinders if they're running a little rich/lean compared the others, this is really good if you run nitrous

going to revive this a little and say that in my experience pulling 2 degrees in the last 800rpm made a bit of a difference and increased power, all in at 6200 (31) then drop to 29 degree from 6200 to 7000 also you don't need a lot of dots as it interpolates between them (i'm running a 7 series)
 
the 7 series has a lot of smarts like 1 timing curve per gear and slew rate, so for example you don't use any slew and stomp on your loud pedal and yeah you get some wheel spin and get to about 100km/h then you look at the data and see where the wheel spin is and start adding dots until you're happy, you basically limit the amount of rpm vs time until you eliminate wheel spin, it's like a rev limiter vs time, you allow you engine to jump from 2000 rpm to 6000rpm in 4 seconds
 
now this might sound crude but you can also do this via retard so instead of rpm limiting you can retard your timing based on what gear you are in so you can get some pretty decent traction control on the street, i know it's useless the track but on the street this is so fucking cool, if it's raining you don't swap ends
 
a lot of people don't use the MAP sensor but you should use it, keep in mind the MSD software reads in PSIA not PSI Use the MAP sensor to tune your carb, you basically use it as a vacuum gauge and with the data logging (not sure if the 6 series has it but the 7 series has about half minute) you can do full runs and review it, see where the 2ndary open and tune those, also you see how much vacuum you got a full throttle, this is quite hard when you have to watch the road but this way you just pull over and replay the run another cool thing you can do is use the MAP sensor to retard ignition and get crackle pop on downshifts, specially when you have a manual, retard to 5 degrees on xx PSIA and bang! you'll be the coolest kid on the block
 
some guys use the built in shift light to trigger Co2 shifters, use the burnout rev limit to save a lot of your engine in the burnout pre race, no need to spin past 5000 rpm to heat the rears once you wrap your head round the MSD box you realise this fucking this is awesome! and while it's no Haltech/Motec/MS it can do some really cool shit for example with the 7 series you can get the optical trigger which hooks up to spark plug 1 wire and tells the MSD when it fires, you nov how per individual cylinder timing, how does this help? well if you run the stock intake manifold then you can tune for the 1 and 6 cylinders if they're running a little rich/lean compared the others, this is really good if you run nitrous

Booval
203 - 209 Brisbane Road Booval QLD 4304   This United has the E85 juice  not far from QR either hehe

Reserve capacity don't do much for starting, once the car is started then alternator takes over. Reserve capacity is good if you run accessories without the motor running. I got about 120amp/hour in my boat and i can pretty much listen to music, and troll for half day and it will still start the boat.
 
With the corrosion, just use really hot water and the bluish shit will just rinse off, so goes for the white crap. Then take the terminals off and some more boiling water then use some petroleum jelly smeared on it then put it back. That worked ok for me in the past and never had issues.

unmarked head is the biggest CC head out of the alloy heads, a lot of 3.3L came with it as they had flat tops, go TFI/EST dizzy, I did't and was missing at around 6.5k pretty bad and din't take it past that
 
 
 
baby cam!
255/260 .63 lift 95mm bore 99 stroke, unmarked head (ported), aussie speed (ported) 4bbl 650, flat top pistons made 372hp at 6.5k where it started missing, drove it around for a while with a single rail and rolled it at QR, ball joint let go. Re-building this in a XE now drag spec, expecting to hit 380hp at the rears on E85 and 600 at the rears with the foggers on
 
hope to have it done this year but time will tell, there is a Ducati Monster competing for cash so the Monster might win
 
also i'm surprised the BW35 lasted! the XE has one in it now and it's complaining while towing the boat, got a C4 for it but got a shock when I was ordering the rebuild kit from the states, wtf is this 73cents to a dollar? $800 AUD for a 500hp C5 kit is not cheap anymore add all the extra bits to make it last with a trans brake and i'm looking at over 1k to rebuild a C4, this used to be under $500 not long ago....
 
Ando, next door (literally) to Performance Wholesale one guy had a xflow on methanol running 16:1, spinning to 7k and making over 400hp through  a Cain 4bbl mani, not sure what happened to that motor, was about 2 years back when they did some cnc copying on ports. Never seen the ports just heard the motor and had a chat with the guy, Micky i think was his name. He said the has taken it to over 7k with an old converter that flared up and was ok. The guy looked and talked like he has no mechanical sympathy whatsoever so whoever build that crossy knew what they were doing, there was an AU donk being built there that was expected to crack 380hp (dirt racing)

I run 12.6:1 comp and had no issue
95mm bore
99mm stroke
flat top
unmarked head 57cc
 
head really ended up around 59.5cc as quite a bit was taken off the face of the valves to lower the comp so in theory the comp would be down to about 12.4:1 but nevertheless it was running ok, just don't load the engine under 3800rpm and no ping
 
I'm going to take 50thou off the heads, fly cut the pistons and run E85, aiming for 15:1

i like your idea of a spring compressor! i normally use two of them normal ones to get the stock strings out as they are fucking long bastards, oh well i been putting changing springs off for 3 months now

so the EF/AU units fit ok? I do want to use the PK belt

well i decided to rip everything from under the dash and throw it in the bin, i'll get some eBay electric heater fans for the front windscreen demister and call it a day, way too many fucked vacuum lines plus ill probably save about 15kg worth of shit, it will also allow me to fit the battery, fuse box and msd behind the glove box right on the firewall

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231282902453
 
This is the ones I used for a few years and have not had any issues with them, they are steel not aluminium, doubt you can get better.
 
edit:
you can also screw them to seal as the thread is not interference fit

not sure how you'd fit one behind the BA motor but they are much stronger than the C4 and can be made to handle over 1000hp quite reasonably 
 
 
don't say C10, it's a C4
 
if guys in the states have them behind nitrous cars pushing 800hp then they will live longer behind a 800hp turbo motor 
you're looking at about $500 rebuilt kit for 500HP plus cost of someone to do the rebuilt which takes a day at $100/h with a good core you're looking at $1300, add oil and you're up to $1500 dollars
 
the upgrades from 500HP are relatively cheap!
Better servo around $200
Needle bearing for 9 around $100
Direct drum mods to get 6-7 clutches and oiling around $250
Roller bearing on the forward clutch $160
Roller forward planet gear $300
Roller rear planet $ 200
Roller reverse drum $100
PA26405 hardened input shaft $200
 
 
there you go about $3000 and she'll love you a long time, you might have to get a manual valve body for it if you want or choose or a trans brake but that's up to you
 
To get this transmission build locally you'll be looking at about 5-6k, if you buy all the parts you're looking at 2k or so then pay 1k for someone to assemble it and you're done, learn how to do it yourself if you can, the C4/C6 aren't that complicated. I've done a few C6's and they lived, the C4 is just smaller.
 
Just don't get ripped off, it's not rocket science and when reading crap on the interwebs keep in mind most C4's we got are 1970's up which comes with some of the oil mods already there but you can read up on it. It's pretty hard to fuck up rebuilding a C4 if you follow instructions. Hell just buy a rebuild kit and rebuilt it yourself and race it! if it breaks you can see where/what broke and you rebuild it again with stronger parts as now you know what you're doing and financially you'll come up on top and you gain a skill for life rather than just plonk money on the table so some 3 thooted pony tailed covered in tatts can have more beer