broken-wheel

mate if it's made in china don't buy it, I went through this and with the value of XD/XE's going through the roof at the moment just buy mustang arms and use US made ball joints, screw in type 
 
I have rolled an XF because of a failed ball joint and was lucky the cage saved me, will never buy a china made critical part again for these things unless I'm giving it to someone I don't like
 
When I see tie rod ends and ball joints on eBay I cringe .....but like they say when buying helmets ... Where there is no sense there is no feeling 
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-d0oz-3049-a/make/ford/model/mustang these would probably be the ticket methinks for a cheap ball joint that's probably better than 99% of shit available in Australia 

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

XD/XE really need their own harness with a relay because the interior switch is directly connected to the headlights and the wiring was a joke from ford, the voltage drop is insane, so I would wire the headlights with a relay straight into the battery  and only use the original harness to trigger the relay. You will be amazed at the brightness of the original lights if they are in decent condition

XD/XE really need their own harness with a relay because the interior switch is directly connected to the headlights and the wiring was a joke from ford, the voltage drop is insane, so I would wire the headlights with a relay straight into the battery  and only use the original harness to trigger the relay. You will be amazed at the brightness of the original lights if they are in decent condition

The Barra is king! No shit, anyone who tells you they can get more power out of ANY 6cyl engine for a dollar figure is dreaming or never looked at the Barra engine. Ford learned almost 40 years on how to make the damn thing bulletproof and with a few thousands you can get a taxi $300 engine to take 1000 hp.
The crossflow will sound nicer thou and you'll see, it will be cranky and more characterful than the Barra but won't be as reliable or powerful. Crossflows with big cams are like hookers....

Typo

oil pressure sensor is right at the back so you know if the PSI per 1k rpm is not enough .... but never seen issues with oiling in crossflows

on the X series the shock/damper is not a stress member so if it fails it's OK, you will know but it won't do anything bad
on the E series the shock/damper IS A STRESS MEMBER and if they fail depending on your speed you're fucked but I like the process of natural selection
 
 

I'm running https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-box-oil-30  .... not sure why people run such heavy oils these days, that's like from the 60's, just run this and change it every few years, it's like 20W-60W which is ok, just give it some time to warm up and it will quiet as it warms up, I like it
some of the 90W oil is just fucking stupid, if you'd be drag racing it I'd probably just run ATF and change it every few months 

Money no object because previous car was an XF same engine and drivetrain and the balljoint failed flipping the car in turn 1 at QR
 
This is just good insurance and cheaper than a new chassis especially with the crazy prices x series demand these days
 
With these arms you don’t have to move the arm to the rear as caster is built in so it fits well in the space, tyres rub a little at full lock thou so have to be a little careful when reversing but forward it’s ok as it will scrape but not rip the bar out

Money no object because previous car was an XF same engine and drivetrain and the balljoint failed flipping the car in turn 1 at QR
 
This is just good insurance and cheaper than a new chassis especially with the crazy prices x series demand these days
 
With these arms you don’t have to move the arm to the rear as caster is built in so it fits well in the space, tyres rub a little at full lock thou so have to be a little careful when reversing but forward it’s ok as it will scrape but not rip the bar out

2nd last pic guy can see the offset

Yup! 




 

I use the Global West arms so might be different 

Yup! 




 

look the thing with the open tracker bearing spring saddle is this:
does not add harshness at all
does make the ride smoother with harder springs
does make the ride a lot smoother with normal springs
never have to grease it etc. and can be rebuildable 
 
So yes it does make a good difference that you feel when unexpected, it's not a night and day difference but it's got a smoothness to it that is hard to pick but it's here, strangely enough i felt it more on the wet when the car leans it's a little more taut. I don't think it's a performance mod thou as I could not really get a chance to test it on the track and on the street you get locked up finding the limit of a well sorted old box falcon (sad hey)

look the thing with the open tracker bearing spring saddle is this:
does not add harshness at all
does make the ride smoother with harder springs
does make the ride a lot smoother with normal springs
never have to grease it etc. and can be rebuildable 
 
So yes it does make a good difference that you feel when unexpected, it's not a night and day difference but it's got a smoothness to it that is hard to pick but it's here, strangely enough i felt it more on the wet when the car leans it's a little more taut. I don't think it's a performance mod thou as I could not really get a chance to test it on the track and on the street you get locked up finding the limit of a well sorted old box falcon (sad hey)

http://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/

I use the opentracker ones, they use roller bearings, bliss, very smooth
 
I have global west UCA and LCA both on bearings on the lower and Delrin (solid) on top, super pro on caster rods and sway bar and with 800pound springs and Koni the car is extremely smooth with no harshness at all, smoother than my mk6 GTI
 
 global west arms have added caster in them and have built in Shelby drop, they drop the top arm almost half inch more and no binding issues, it's a nice bit of kit, no fouling on anything
 
 

I'm running https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-box-oil-30  .... not sure why people run such heavy oils these days, that's like from the 60's, just run this and change it every few years, it's like 20W-60W which is ok, just give it some time to warm up and it will quiet as it warms up, I like it
some of the 90W oil is just fucking stupid, if you'd be drag racing it I'd probably just run ATF and change it every few months 

the cost vs everything is too high with triple carbs and I can bet my left nut that on the same motor it will make more power and torque with an EB s2 or ED manifold and going EFI for much cheaper than the carbs
the eb2 and ed multipoint manifold is a little bigger than ea/eb
it will start every time and drive better, would not bother with triple carbs unless you're drag racing it and every HP counts

the cost vs everything is too high with triple carbs and I can bet my left nut that on the same motor it will make more power and torque with an EB s2 or ED manifold and going EFI for much cheaper than the carbs
the eb2 and ed multipoint manifold is a little bigger than ea/eb
it will start every time and drive better, would not bother with triple carbs unless you're drag racing it and every HP counts

the cost vs everything is too high with triple carbs and I can bet my left nut that on the same motor it will make more power and torque with an EB s2 or ED manifold and going EFI for much cheaper than the carbs
the eb2 and ed multipoint manifold is a little bigger than ea/eb
it will start every time and drive better, would not bother with triple carbs unless you're drag racing it and every HP counts

I use machine oil, never fails!
I squirt it down the bores, dump a lot in the pan as well, take the rocker cover off and coat everything in there with machine oil, take oil filter off and coat all the crap in there and take dizzy out and squirt some in there as well. I have an engine that it's been apart for about 18 months now and not event the slightest sign of rust and it's not even packaged up or anything, just bare block and crank, pistons etc. all coated in machine oil and it's all good
The pic was taken on Moss St ?

that was at .600, never went above that as I thought it might not clear my head and don't want to notch pistons
it scaled quite well from .300 to .600 but was stupid from .200 to .300 ...wish I could had that from .500 to .600 !
were the valves cut from a bigger one? mine were 2.1" Chev valves cut to 1.910, seats were cut by UMR so I doubt they are anywhere near good but I knew that and just wanted to see what was what