FOMOCOHO

When I changed the stereo in my '82 XE Fairmont Ghia I didn't want to cut or chop anything as it is an original JG32 car with factory manual, which are hard to find these days.
 
Even though this was done along time ago, I had the foresight to understand it may be more valuable as original, the door cards were really good with no holes and the original Pioneer radio/tape-deck was also in good condition.
 
So I sourced pioneer 4" speakers that were chunky enough to handle the new deck output but fit in the front speaker slots. I also found a set of grills that already had broken slats from my old XD and cut & fitted the speakers and kept the original grills and speakers in a box for safe keeping.
 

 
No damage done. They were beefy top of the line 4" 2-way but will be the weak link so had to be replaced once. The second set should last longer since I appreciate my hearing now. 
 
The rears sourced were 6" Pioneer 3-way, again as beefy as I could get that would just bolt into the original headrests, no cut & shut.
Hence my doors and door cards have no holes at all.
 


 
Bit of a shampoo and they should look like new.
 
Next was the deck. Back when I did this the car was a daily and top-of-the-line pioneer still had a tape-deck... and they were so chunky you didn't need a power amp. Thing weighs a ton! It was back in  the QR days before the removable front thing which was so impractical since it weighed a ton. Also has 6-stack in boot so had all bases covered. Just no bluetooth back then. But it still looks period enough with the car and can play cassettes!
 
So I sourced another escutcheon from the wreckers and modified that & spot welded the cage in. The front panel was available new from Fords at the time. The old deck was removed and put in a box for safe-keeping.
 
 
New deck fitted...

 
Cradle without deck...

 
As far as cassette decks go this one is the most advanced, even searches a tape but that will wear the heads, so best to just FF>>.
Radio has superfringe too & BSM for country/interstate travel. It just goes off for a radio tape/deck era machine & has full remote & CD stacker for more modern stuff.
 

 
All the wiring was done with XE Ford connectors with easy access. The whole escutcheon can be removed in a couple of minutes with no swearing or cursing. It would not take long to unplug & remove this one & replace the original, that was the idea maybe for car shows or whatever.
 

 
The original Pioneer stereo in storage...
 
 

 
So there you go dAVE, no originality upset and reversal in extra quick time! 

I'm still using kero I got from the pump at a Shell Servo. $1.18 per Litre. Bring your own drum. Remember those days!...
 
I just took lots of drums, thankfully. 
 
Now you can only buy it in a gold plated tin. Maybe solid gold, not sure but everything is expensive at a servo now thanks to the gready little... i'll just stop there. 

Use an oil based degreaser, such as kerosene, 'neat-cut' if you can get it (low fumes), & use an extraction fan if possible.
 
I never use water based degreaser on engine/driveline components.

I remember the good old days with kero bowsers too. Kero was a good power booster if you added it to diesel. You could smell it out the exhaust when someone was doing that. Too much and you could burn holes in pistons though.

I'm still using kero I got from the pump at a Shell Servo. $1.18 per Litre. Bring your own drum. Remember those days!...
 
I just took lots of drums, thankfully. 
 
Now you can only buy it in a gold plated tin. Maybe solid gold, not sure but everything is expensive at a servo now thanks to the gready little... i'll just stop there. 

Use an oil based degreaser, such as kerosene, 'neat-cut' if you can get it (low fumes), & use an extraction fan if possible.
 
I never use water based degreaser on engine/driveline components.

Always start at the bottom, The small top and obtuse angle is easier to get in last

Rear pushes out without cutting the seal.

Fuel pressure reg may be on it's way out and letting the fuel rail drain when it sits, try flicking the key on and aff a few times to prime the fuel system and see if it starts straight away

Ok so cue the oil pump freak!!!!!!!!!
 
Right - I'll say this again for the sake of clarity.  Never - ever - ever fucking ever run a high volume pump on a ford engine Clevo - crossflow - or Windsor.  Fucking ever. ever fucking ever. Ah now I've got that off my chest.
 
Why - because the standard volume pump is way - way - way to efficient.  Are you hearing me.  Way way way to efficient.  How do I know this?  Because I am a freak who gets off on building oil pumps to suit customers needs.  I sit them on a test bench and set them up on a regular basis.  I only did one this week so far, but last week I did 3.  I know how much oil they flow in standard form and I can tell you - its lots.
 
Had a mate/customer with a very tough aspo Clevo burnout car ring this week he cut short a big trip away because his Clevo failed oil filter inspection.  It runs - restrictor kits, priority oiling system, very good BIG sump and great machining and tolerances - yet still it ate 3 bearings.  All with a STANDARD volume pump.  Filled the heads full of oil and also the breather.  All at 7200rpm.  Why - because the standard volume pump had been fitted with a bigger relief spring allowing it to pump 95psi of oil pressure.
 
Now what you also have to realise is that is a massive increase in FLOW as well as PRESSURE.  And your engine builder has fitted a high volume pump to your engine???? Why - I'll bet he usually builds chevs. 
 
You have to understand the design of the Ford oil pump to appreciate just how good they are and I don't care if you have a 10.5 litre sump.  You turn that engine past 5500 with a high volume pump and you will toast bearings.  Don't believe me - fine.  I don't care I will not be the one forking out for a new engine.
 
Remove it now - place it on the floor and hit it with a very big hammer so it can never be used on an engine again.  There is never - I repeat never, any application which it can or should be used.  Big sump big engine it doesn't matter. 
 
If you wish to discuss this with me - feel free to PM me.  I can give you the fellows number from the above example and you can speak with him. 
 
mate - please listen - remove that pump ASAP.  It will not be fine.

One thing to remember Nath is to NOT over cam the engine. Yes you may like the lumpy and grumpy ilde but it will also effect the drivabilitly too. With that block i'd tear it down (keeping everything organised of course) send it off to a reptable machine shop and have them sonic check the bores and magnuflux it for cracks along with the heads and may be the intake if you plan on reusing it, plus the crank and con rods for bends, twist and size. If you have access to a quality dial bore gauge (no.1 tool if your serious about engine building) and quailty micrometers (i recommend mitutoyo) you can mesure them yourself along with the crank journals.
 
 

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

One thing is not to loose the faith Nath. everyone gets ripped or fucks up occasionally. Its how we live and learn.
 
I got a 750 "Holley" sitting here which is testament to that. (Thanks Balzy_6)
 
As i said before use it as a learning block, if it proves to be fucked make a coffee table out of it for the man cave!

And remember, push the piston all the way down first, clean as much muck out as you can & do the lip before then pushing the piston up & out.
 
Looks like a 302 if thats the stroke there in the pic.

BUT... Trap for young players just there! Should have had a plan B... I can't see or hear it running, can't see inside it, don't know how long or where it's been sitting... might work away from it... bit of an inconvenience but i've still got the money... a better one will come up!!! Plenty fish...
 
 
Don't do this or he may re-advertise it and make more $$$ and dull the enthusiasm of someone else.
 
 
Good question Jimmy! Enjoyin' that XR8 today were ya?! Engine was advertised for $650, see ebay thread.
 
 
I hope you at least negotiated a better price otherwise I think you obviously don't work hard enough for your doe and are not savvy enough on the market-place for potential boat anchors. Sorry Nath, sometimes the truth hurts and you just have to take it with both barrels. No point sugar-coating it! It's not good to see a fellow enthusiast learn these pitfalls the hard way.
 
Remember, there are real enthusiasts who will help you to keep enthused and then there are assholes.
 
 
I agree, no harm in trying to recoup some of your doe if the guy has a conscience. Otherwise note your dissatisfaction with gumtree.

Yep just got me thinking and adding up numbers, and I've spent waaay too much on my XF (been over a five year period but half of that spendings been in the last six months) doesn't matter what you doing or how your doing it if your playing with cars your gonna be spending dollars.
What ever you think you need to spend at least double that, there is always unforeseen costs, one thing leads to the next and once you start you've just gotta keep going.
Not trying to discourage anything btw, just know we all do the same thing. Worse things you could be doing with your hard earned.

And remember, push the piston all the way down first, clean as much muck out as you can & do the lip before then pushing the piston up & out.
 
Looks like a 302 if thats the stroke there in the pic.

Doesn't take you long to write an essay does it.  
 
I've got this uni assignment, 1800 words on operations and project management, can I PM it your way??? 

After ringing the guy, you may as well strip it down anyway and see what else is good, bad or ugly.
 
Good practice too. Take your crank out, then pistons out with lots of CRC and some emery on the lip, then revisit the bores.
 
Like greg says, it may look better with a clean up. 

After ringing the guy, you may as well strip it down anyway and see what else is good, bad or ugly.
 
Good practice too. Take your crank out, then pistons out with lots of CRC and some emery on the lip, then revisit the bores.
 
Like greg says, it may look better with a clean up. 

BUT... Trap for young players just there! Should have had a plan B... I can't see or hear it running, can't see inside it, don't know how long or where it's been sitting... might work away from it... bit of an inconvenience but i've still got the money... a better one will come up!!! Plenty fish...
 
 
Don't do this or he may re-advertise it and make more $$$ and dull the enthusiasm of someone else.
 
 
Good question Jimmy! Enjoyin' that XR8 today were ya?! Engine was advertised for $650, see ebay thread.
 
 
I hope you at least negotiated a better price otherwise I think you obviously don't work hard enough for your doe and are not savvy enough on the market-place for potential boat anchors. Sorry Nath, sometimes the truth hurts and you just have to take it with both barrels. No point sugar-coating it! It's not good to see a fellow enthusiast learn these pitfalls the hard way.
 
Remember, there are real enthusiasts who will help you to keep enthused and then there are assholes.
 
 
I agree, no harm in trying to recoup some of your doe if the guy has a conscience. Otherwise note your dissatisfaction with gumtree.

First step is to remove the sump and check out what you got... what size bearings 010,020,030 ?... and what your ground surfaces are like ???
 
Also whether it is a 302 or 351 already!

Doesn't take you long to write an essay does it.  
 
I've got this uni assignment, 1800 words on operations and project management, can I PM it your way??? 

http://www.cvfracing.com/Ford-351C-351M-400-Serpentine-Kit-Power-Steering-p/351c-serpentine-ps.htm

Q = w/s manual