SMIKXF / YEABRA

All out recycled beer cans exported to China go somewhere 

It wouldn't surprise me if they at least use the same casting as ProComp. Those have a reputation of being porous in the metal and when bought assembled, valve seats had dropped out, rocker pedestals were found to be machined crooked, port and manifold alignment were poor, and generally it was just false economy to buy them, then have them stripped and machined properly and have decent hardware installed.

Even if they're not the same casting, still China.

I would look at the local alloy stuff if you can stretch that far. Otherwise, a set of CNC ported Pavtek 2Vs would be a sure bet at least for reliability. You can't beat factory iron on that front. In a truck, that would be #1 priority for me.

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I jus changed over to a C4 from a toploader mate.. I've got a 393ci 600hp n wouldn't be real cruiser friendly with a manual - depends what u like I guess but with big cam n horsepower I def think auto.. took me ages to change over

This is mine
 

I've just had my motor built using 302 rods, 351 crank, precision pistons, 2V closed chamber heads with 4V outlets. It was professionally built, he said it is 10.5:1 compression. He used Hypatec piss-tins, (6.025 rod) - Part No: PFO351C680203H
It hasn't been started yet so no dyno figures available but i'm guessing between 400 & 450HP. It has a 750cfm Holley, Redline 'Street Torker' single plane manifold running into the heads and 4 into 1 extractors on the outlet which run into a twin 2" system.
The cam is a Crow Cam Part No. 61249.
G'box is a full manual C10 with stg 3 shift kit and 3000rpm TCE converter. 
Diff gears are 3.5:1 L.S.D.
Information so far is this basic street combo is good for low 13 sec quarters in full street trim in an XD.
This is a pretty common, tried and tested combo that most guys use with the set-up you're looking at.
It will look slow compared to a drag car but fun enough for the street.

Yeah thanks mate it's comin along nicely now goin up there tomoro to drop off the new engine to be painted n see her in the flesh now the bay is done

Good stuff. No I've had no rubbing at the front what so ever, they are rolled but just a pretty standard job with the guard roller not as aggressive as the rears.
 
Yours is gonna look shit hot with those wheels and paint, and I've said it before but that bay
 
What rim width/size/offset did you end up going with, and what tyres you planning on tucking under those rolled rear guards?

have a look at where i ran mine - semi legal out of the boot ish - fuel tank >> lift pump (sits on rear diff mount) >> run line to surge in the passenger exhaust exit - plans are in my build thread i did make it a bit shorter though >> return line back to tank from surge >> surge to regular at the front >> return to front to surge >> so when the surge fills up it returns to the tank -- havent had an issue at yet (also put a drain plug on the bottom of the surge best thing i did )

Been doing a surge and line upgrade to my Xf recently. Pics in the build thread. It's efi but should give you some ideas. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6049-bluebetty-crazy2287s-boring-build/page-3

ok i took it for a drive around the block it seems to be ok,tuesday is booked in for a 3 inch single system,with a hooker aero chamber stainless muffler i had.

I am glad i did a dummy fit of the starter and headers because it didnt fit,so out comes the grinder and took about 30 thou off a thick weld,and i was also able to adjust the starter in a bit ,other side should be a snack.

Fark yeah!! Putting a clevo between the shocker towers is like putting bigger balls between your legs. Haha.

After the engine came out today i had enough time to just give a mild cleanup and take the old 6 cyl engine plates off the chassis,tomorrow will do a major clean and prep for monday or tuesday heart transplant with the clevo.

Yeah that was the big hoopla at the time, everyone was scared of plastic until they dropped one off a building along with a steel one, plastic one bounced, steel one ruptured. I'm sure I've seen a video of it.

500 will still give a shove in the back.
 
Why go all mental over full huge cams which give a crappy idle and hammer the valve train?
 
Unless you wanna race it of course

I no reason a 28 spline in a LSD won't take what you are about to give it. I mean unless you plan on drag racing it in a car that "hooks" 28's will be fine IMO.
 
But if you want...Id suggest going to a 31 spline as they cost the same and there stronger. Axles can be had thru Rocket VPW and such easy enough though.

I don't know about 600hp but Jarrods 408 that runs 10.2 131 plus it needed a tank cos it was loosing PSI from rear to front. Ran it with a Magnafuel 500 and return @ the pump and it was loosing 2.5 to 3 PSI by the time it got to the carb till he fitted a Carter lift and a kept the Magna fuel to feed the carb.
 
Normally I'd say B I G pump and a return reg in the bay but I couldn't say with any confidence you would be OK TBH.Mines OK like this in the ute cos of 2 reasons. Less distance to travel and 2nd the Webers only run 2.5PSI.  

Thanks for the photos mate, I'll make sure mine is the same rolled length !

NO mate i'm going an EFI 393 now either from pavtek or Toca performance, I put the driveline as a last thing of build project

Pavtek build a good motor.

Have u ordered ur engine yet mate ? I jus put a deposit on the pavtek 600hp 393ci cause one thing I do know is a poor man pays twice as I have done many times with my car over the 15years I've had it n now I'm jus goin with the reputation n quality the guys there have ! Get what u pay for with engines.. Hope it works out sweet for ya mate.. Love ya build thread too

ok i'm in the process of buying a 393 crate in aus built to order 393ci 495hp just abit worried the bonnet wont close once fitted

Thanks guys.
 
Looking at them stacked in my garage I wasn't sure about the size or colour before I put them on the car, but I'm chuffed real happy with em.

Sneak peak
 
 
 

Thanks for your comments and votes all.
 
On Thursday arvo this happened