bear351c

Hi Bear,
 
Thanks for your input as well,
 
Sorry about the message and then the addition of the topic, Greg doesn't accept direct messages lol, added the topic hoping he would answer.
 
Greg,
 
3500rpm on the highway no thanks😳. I will need to revisit the cam.
 
Great input, I really appreciate it.

Thanks Greg,
 
Appreciate your input. 
 
Regarding Compression I have read your previous posts on this but lack the confidence too say my working-out is correct.
 
I have contacted crow cams with some figures and they recommended Crow Cam - 21649 Hydraulic (see attachment)
 
What is the "magic" compression number...and how does one achieve it..
 
I have read a common mod for the 2V CC head is to fit 4V exhaust valves obviously this is to increase flow. Is it a value added mod?
 
At this stage my block is at the machine shop and has been bored to 4.030 (block from an XD Ghia).
 
I will also fit MSD (or similar) ignition and I have a Edelbrock 2V performer manifold on the way (a lot of parts are in low supply atm).

Yeah, I use NGK BP5FS, just change them every 10,000.  
 

note that when using roller rockers on a crossflow ,the cup in the rocker that holds the pushrod sometimes is set deeper than stock ,i found this out on my crossflow after having it milled it actually needed longer than stock length which i couldnt work out until the machine shop told me ,will depend on brand of rocker.

Yeah, I saw that too....... 1972.? 

Yeah, I saw that too....... 1972.? 

Tapatalk is a forum hosting app on your phone or (maybe) computer... Anyway, the pic you emailed:



Those are adjustable at the pushrod end, meaning they might not have been adjusted right but if this engine hasn't been run yet, the lifters will be empty of oil so the free play you are witnessing is the light pressure that the lifter preload spring provides.

If there is no light pressure and the rocker is freely flopping back and forth, the initial adjustment procedure should be followed.

I would do it by backing off the locknut on each one, rotate the engine around to TDC compression on each cylinder you're doing and wind the Allen key adjuster in till it just contacts the pushrod. Then go 3/4 of a turn in to achieve lifter preload. Lock the nut at that setting and move to the next. Repeat process in firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 till all are done.

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I know I go on about this block that's cause it's rare as ,let's start with typical big block bell pattern,1971 cast D1AE with no abbreviations after it is high nickel,STD bore with typical cleveland style pan rails ,3 inch mains and large 2 bolt caps,has light surface rust in bores but will clean up fine at 020 or 030 ,see the sought of pillows cast into it ,this is where maybe the Geelong foundry got the idea for the XE pillow block castings.i have also had it milled to suit a svo 351w 1 piece rear main seal

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Yeah, I watch Richard Holdener every now and then. Like the way he documents everything. 
 
Agreed, it's a struggle to see what is "Factory" anymore, But a Windsor with Clevo heads is still an awesome thing to behold. 😁

Although I'm pretty impressed, there ain't much Clevo left in that engine... 

Problem found. 
replaced the fan speed switch  and is now as good as the day it left the factory. 

The eBay radiators are fine if you do your research and sizing. I've bought 8 now, even for the big block AMG I had. The stock one from AMG was $2k, and adrad one was $800, second hand one was $500, new one from eBay, $180. Had that in there 2 years, not an issue. Do your research and you'll be fine.
 
As for the XD-XF, the eBay ones won't bolt straight into the brackets, no but it's easily modified depending on the radiator you go with. 

I have said this elsewhere, but I'll repeat it for this discussion... I have an eBay alloy one in my V8 XE, so far going ok. I'd read up on them and longevity doesn't seem to be an issue if you run an earth lead from the core to the chassis. The biggest issue seems to be electrolysis (stray voltage in the coolant) also they say use water and plain inhibitor rather than glycol-based coolant. I would use rainwater if possible.

Mine did have major fitment issues, not only dimension-wise but with quality of manufacture. The core was warped so that one tank was 20mm twisted from the other between the bottom tank ends, requiring one the bottom mounts to be shifted by that amount for the top tanks to sit ok.

I got the one with pressed/stamped tanks which look nicer but I think the fabricated tank ones might fit better.

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I can see how that would happen on an "air valve secondary" carby like that (backfire gets trapped under the secondary flap) and the resin body wouldn't tolerate much of an explosion I imagine. I'm curious as to why he reckoned a spreadbore Holley wouldn't suit a spreadbore Ford manifold though. I would have thought the opposite true, ie square onto a spread manifold isn't ideal.



This sounds like it's definitely a thing



Thanks Bear, got it for $200 which is pretty good for a Holley these days. People want "near new" money for old junk lately.

Yeah throttle shaft is a bit of a worry, there is a fix for it but I'm hoping that this was one that someone drove for a bit, got frustrated with it and benched it for the rest of its life up to now.

A well-setup TQ is supposed to be a great carby, up there with an equally sorted Rochester. They had their issues like leaking main jet wells (epoxy fixes them), warped main body (surface plate and wet/dry should sort that) and one thing I noticed with a crappy one I mistakenly bought as a teenager was the wear in the body where the vacuum piston goes that actuates the needles wears out and leaks too much air, causing the piston to stay up all the time and have the rods on "power" (rich) mode all the time.

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That's pretty much what I got, not sure what revision it is (seems like -3 is common) but cheers for the heads-up on the plug. They do work loose over time but luckily I have Hume performance here in Sydney who will likely have those fiddly bits like meter block plugs, etc. The rebuild kits are a bit expensive, as the bowl and main body gaskets are specific to the 4165/4175 models.

When you say the acc pump died, it could have just been something like the inlet check valve failing (common on the umbrella type) or some crap getting stuck in the check ball on the outlet.

I like to wind a 1/4" nut down the filter stud and snug it to the lid of the carby to stop it from coming loose, for the reason you stated. That sucks what happened on yours by the way, I would hate to lose an engine from something so minor.

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I remember the bulletin from FoMoCo about the TQ phenolic body cracking, when quenching the hot, dry LPG air with cool petrol. They voided all warranty if not removed. IIRC. 
Got my TQ from the FC sitting in the shed, all rebuilt and ready for the Nugget. Just a lazy bass turd. 
 
Good score there, Gerg. Looks well used.!   Check throttle shaft play for sure.

I remember the bulletin from FoMoCo about the TQ phenolic body cracking, when quenching the hot, dry LPG air with cool petrol. They voided all warranty if not removed. IIRC. 
Got my TQ from the FC sitting in the shed, all rebuilt and ready for the Nugget. Just a lazy bass turd. 
 
Good score there, Gerg. Looks well used.!   Check throttle shaft play for sure.

I remember the bulletin from FoMoCo about the TQ phenolic body cracking, when quenching the hot, dry LPG air with cool petrol. They voided all warranty if not removed. IIRC. 
Got my TQ from the FC sitting in the shed, all rebuilt and ready for the Nugget. Just a lazy bass turd. 
 
Good score there, Gerg. Looks well used.!   Check throttle shaft play for sure.

I know this is jumping the gun a little but I will start a thread on this carby I just bought from a bloke in Tassie. My mum (who lives close) picked it up for me and will bring it up next visit. So I don't have it yet.
 
I have (of course) already researched this model ad nauseum and have concluded that folks who have gotten them to work love them to bits, and those who could never get their heads around them want to hurl them into the abyss.
 
They were a slight departure from the traditional 4150 (square bore) in that the main body is a completely different casting. The differences include:
 
* Splayed boosters to suit the wider bore pattern
 
* For some reason, the primary squirters are mounted inboard, squirting outwards.
 
* Altered plumbing for the accelerator pump circuit, using a transfer tube and not a simple drilling in the metering block... Possibly so that only emissions type meeting blocks can be fitted.
 
* Metering blocks with altered drillings for specific bowls that take different locating dowels and acc pump circuit routes (for reasons above), also dedicated gaskets for blocks and bowls.
 
* Fixed float adjustments
 
* Single fuel feed in a similar location on the front bowl to where the one on a Rochester would be, with a dedicated transfer tube to the rear bowl. This is unusual for a double pumper... Normally they're dual feed.
 
* Rear accelerator pump is the big 50cc type (coupled with a suitable pump cam) to feed the huge rear barrels when they open
 
* I'm not 100% on this, but going by the type of idle screw used, it appears that the idle mixture is reversed type (screwing in equals richer)
 
These carbys were intended to be an emissions-compliant replacement for a Rochester Quadrajet back in the day, hence the lack of float adjustment, etc. This is a bit of a drawback, but not a deal-breaker.
 
The ad was taken down ages ago, but here are pics of an identical carby:








 
So as you can see, the primaries are very small compared to the secondaries, like on a Rochester or Thermoquad, which gives good low-end torque and economy. I went a step further and got a very rare 2-stage power valve for the primary side, had to order it from a place in the US.
 
The reason why I went that way is so I can jet down even more for a good cruise AFR but have a slight enrichment at part-throttle somewhere between where the normal power valves are either open or closed. I believe the one I got is 1st stage 10.5, 2nd stage 5.5. These were OEM on the 1980s 5.0 Mustangs that had 1480 Holleys (an emissions square bore). They are not recommended in a performance engine as they can't flow like a traditional power valve.
 
Anyway, I digress, it's all nice in theory but I will only know what it's like once it gets here and I strip it down. I might do an annular booster conversion, see what fuel bowls I can swap (probably none), play around with squirters and pump cams, jetting, all that lovely carby stuff.
 
I was happy with the Street Demon up until recently, when it really started drinking the juice. I'm talking 300 to a tank when it was getting 400 before, and doing identical driving.
 
I can't work out why and I can't tune it much now that my tuneup kit has gone missing (I suspect when the car went to the smash repairer). The cost of another tuneup kit landed from the US (whenever that would happen) would be close to what I paid for this Holley.
 
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You can recon the switches if you're keen. theres just a couple of tabs to bend, and it all comes apart. Clean the brass contacts and spray with CRC,  NeptuneBlue does good work.
 
Even if you fit the original, run a relay. Lights will be so much brighter. 

You can recon the switches if you're keen. theres just a couple of tabs to bend, and it all comes apart. Clean the brass contacts and spray with CRC,  NeptuneBlue does good work.
 
Even if you fit the original, run a relay. Lights will be so much brighter. 

You can recon the switches if you're keen. theres just a couple of tabs to bend, and it all comes apart. Clean the brass contacts and spray with CRC,  NeptuneBlue does good work.
 
Even if you fit the original, run a relay. Lights will be so much brighter. 

I never had a problem with mine or them it turned up great fitted correctly and they were helpful as ever so must of got them on a good day lol

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Been a while since I've seen a Clevo in an XF or ZL, but, I would have thought by now that someone like CRS or Tuff Mounts would have a lowered/altered engine mount to suit. 
 
Still, a couple of love taps with a BFH on the firewall, and it fits.......

i did see one once where they modded the engine base mounts and had the engine moved forward, but then you need a longer tailshaft.. and probably need to be sure there's space for thermo fans etc. 
the hammer works, flipping the heater core upside down and drilling new holes in the firewall for it used to be popular