Demmo

o sorry jack just re read all posts  and the ute in question is an xg  that I use for a run a round   the red xh outback is retired to the hayshed  
maybe I should of posted a few pics of xg when I saved it from tip    but its not in same league as all the flash xg s  on here  and its not red don't want to embarrass anyone  cough cough haha
cheers demmo

thanks guys for reply's   yes the van is complete   but  I would need to be best friends with someone like  2redrovers  who can turn pig shit into strawberry jam   (for those who don't have a weird sense of humor its rusted)
thanks for the offer jack   at this stage I still not sure what to do.  its a case of having to many toys, the war office complaining about too many spare parts in backyard, the usual empty pocket syndrome, and what spare time? 
the tranny only seems to go straight to second then third and when at speed you back off pedal and it seems its in neutral  a bit like the first old holden hydramatics   even when you lock selector in 1 it will rev out to about 75  shift to 2 and you can hit 110  hit 3 and 4 no change   reverse works fine   so I guess the tranny is destined for scrap
cheers demmo

o sorry jack just re read all posts  and the ute in question is an xg  that I use for a run a round   the red xh outback is retired to the hayshed  
maybe I should of posted a few pics of xg when I saved it from tip    but its not in same league as all the flash xg s  on here  and its not red don't want to embarrass anyone  cough cough haha
cheers demmo

Just found this thread as my auto has just died. So am thinking to do same conversion too. So binary_fuel did you go ahead with this swap any problems etc?   
Q.  I have an xh 5 speed manual van  that I can acquire  would pedal box transfer to the earlier body   and  would there be any other problems can anyone  advise   or.   am I better off finding another auto box   thanks. Demmo

Just found this thread as my auto has just died. So am thinking to do same conversion too. So binary_fuel did you go ahead with this swap any problems etc?   
Q.  I have an xh 5 speed manual van  that I can acquire  would pedal box transfer to the earlier body   and  would there be any other problems can anyone  advise   or.   am I better off finding another auto box   thanks. Demmo

Wire needs to be decent, i'd go 2.5mm and 40A fuse.
 
You could cut fan supply through a changeover relay connected to your oil pressure lamp. Changeovers have two outputs 87 and 87a. Connect power to 87a (normally closed) and when you turn on ignition, oil pressure lamp comes on, relay powers up and 87a goes dead. Start engine, once oil pressure lamp goes out, relay switches off and 87a goes live again, turning fans on.
 
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Ok. Firstly to clear up the misunderstanding, the only reason ef/early el and xh ohc blew head gaskets from factory were because of defective head bolts. The head of the bolt would break off. Ford themselves took responsibility for this back in the day and did a recall to replace head bolts before their clamping pressure released from the head breaking off and blowing the head gasket as a result.

I run a mls (multi layer steel) head gasket in my ute with the block decked 5 thou and 20 thou off the head. As Chris and Dean have said, you must have the head serviced and machined flat. Also you need to check the block, if there is pitting around the coolant galleries it will need to have the face machined. An mls head gasket has no give like a graphite head gasket. The mls one is actually designed so that the outer 2 layers will adhere to the head and block then as it heats and expands (remember aluminium head will expand more than an iron block) then once cool return to its normal seated position. Ford did this so they could run cylinder shut down technology in the case of over heating in au falcons.
Go buy yourself a good quality permaseal mls head gasket and be prepared to pay. Buy permaseal head bolts also. Any company willing to cast the part number in the head is worth using. I sprayed a light coating of hylomar on the head gasket before fitting. Follow the torque specs that come with the gasket. They are different from the graphite ones.
A Barra conversion into a xh is harder than all other x series because it runs a ef/el sub frame with less clearance for the alloy sump.

Learn from it and build it up again.
 
love the honesty mate too can be hard to admit a times

I think it was several failures at around same time  being failing fuel pump,  possible blockage in the lines  an filter,  and dizzy cap wearing out causing erratic spark and of course a old impatient buggar with nil mechanical knowledge  jumping to the wrong conclusions   so hopefully she will give me another few years of daily travel of 200 kls a day 
thanks for your help along the way  cheers demmo

ya ho  we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust   o well it can wait 
a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer  for pics
now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office
cheers demmo

ya ho  we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust   o well it can wait 
a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer  for pics
now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office
cheers demmo

ya ho  we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust   o well it can wait 
a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer  for pics
now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office
cheers demmo

Ok we can now remove pump out of equation New pump in. primed pump up to 200 kpa. Started run till motor warmed up Then it starts missing again grr line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered So the elimination continues
Thanks people for your input so far
Cheers demmo

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Ok we can now remove pump out of equation New pump in. primed pump up to 200 kpa. Started run till motor warmed up Then it starts missing again grr line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered So the elimination continues
Thanks people for your input so far
Cheers demmo

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Ok we can now remove pump out of equation New pump in. primed pump up to 200 kpa. Started run till motor warmed up Then it starts missing again grr line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered So the elimination continues
Thanks people for your input so far
Cheers demmo

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Thanks guys. Will follow your suggestions. So I am right in assuming that the fuel rail should hold pressure same as the xh when motor off Cheers Demmo


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Thanks guys. Will follow your suggestions. So I am right in assuming that the fuel rail should hold pressure same as the xh when motor off Cheers Demmo


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the fn saga continues  pulled fuel lines out found dirt in lines so have blown all lines out  have put another rail complete from the spares vehicle on another fuel filter on 
managed to start it running on 5  pump pressure shows 200 kpa   has spark to all 6 cylinders so pull injector wires off start at no 6  no difference to running  next pull no5 off an motor dies  
pulled injector rail off swapped injectors around  put back on                 started but does not idle misses and wants to die  manage to get revs up around 2000 and it seems fine
turn off     to restart turns over try's to start and when its turning over faster than starter motor then dies  after 5  6 attempts it starts  missing badly  then it starts  same sequence again ok at high revs  refuses to run at lower revs and cuts out as now it wont idle long enough to pull wires off six injector
pump pressure stays at 200 kpa when running but falls to 0 when motor stops  if I blank return line off  crank motor an as it fires an runs for the 20  secs or so fuel pressure reads around 400kpa  motor stops running the pressure drops to 0   on the xh the fuel rail had a pressure of around 380kpa and maintained that pressure even when not running   so have I somehow missed a non return valve between tank an pressure regulator or is the xh xg fuel systems the same ?
o an dave  you say   "Dont over think it... XG Electrical systems are very simple.?   ark me think you meant to say the operator is...........simple
so can someone tell me where this idiot is going wrong  an maybe some further suggestions to try  before this white haired old fart relives  guy fox night

thanks for reply   I have 2 grey relays next to the booster so will try swapping them around.   I think someone has played there before as the wires have push on spades  connected straight to each relay an not into a black Bakelite holder like the relays next to battery    anyway will go an re read your posts on your ute thanks again
cheers Demmo

FYi if you like going to high RPM then you might start shredding V-belts having such a high amperage. That is a lot of turning force if your truly using that capacity. I run a 120A Bosch alternator in a XF alt housing and have this problem. Used such a big alternator because I had dual battery and a 6400watt sound system in the car. which is a 500 amp peak. But even that, the 120A alt had no issues keeping up because the average power draw is WELL under the maximum.
 
Having said all that,
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=140+amd+alternator&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X140+amp+alternator.TRS0&_nkw=140+amp+alternator&_sacat=0
They look like they have under drive pulleys on them so RPM might be fine? And they are not too expensive. If you think you need the power then go for it! Alternators are VERY simple things. If they are built well they should last a long time. Just keep it shielded form the exhaust heat. As the heat can kill em.

Ok so basically the truck was advertised for $6,500 and I was the only one to show up and look.
 
I scored it for under $4,000 with the condition that he kept the MSD, gas carb, power steering and bench seat.
 
I have been supplied with the stock elec dizzy, 650 holley, bucket seats and I will be getting a manual steering box if I can't afford to buy back the power steering and yes I know it'll be heavy without power steering.
 
The other end of the deal was that the truck was delivered (100 Kay's from where I bought it) because it's still a manual and I'm not legally allowed to drive it - not to mention it has a fucked uni
 
 
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No. The steering box is out of ye ol Datsun 260c - only one tab needs to be added to fit it to an f truck
 
The pitman arm is a mutant with Datsun spline on one end and a taper on the other to fit the f truck drag link
 
 
It's the only way to make pre 80's effies power steering

Im going to have a try at stripping a bonnet using paint stripper. I was going to get it soda blasted but i quoted $250 to do it which i thought was a bit steep.
 
My question is what strippers have people used ( unfamilia shut up!)? And what did you use to neutralise it afterwards?
 
Any tips or hints would be much appreciated.

the bonnet protector I had on the xf was held on by 6 self tappers along the leading edge of bonnet underneath   it was a clear plastic same as headlight protectors  it was a ford acc when purchased but I believe auger accessories make them along with weather window shields so ask at your parts place and they should be able to help    you will need to take them off periodically to clean behind it also
cheers demmo

Stuck on a speed hump somewhere!