EBAY 140 amp alternators for XF

[xfish 20]

Sorry, don't know how to post the link, but I came across a 140 amp alternator for an XF. I typed in the ebay search ' xf ford alternator' and scrolled down the page.....Has anybody had any experiences with these.....i'm aware they have an internal regulator, and are basically a throw away if it shit's itself.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

No. 140 is pretty massive though. Why do you think you need 140A?

[xfish 20]

plenty of audio and lots of lights, plenty of lights....I had a 120 amp on my 351, and everything ran bright and knocked out good bass. The 100amp alt is available, but already having a 85 amp mounted, I couldn't justify spending $200 on a 15 amp increase where the 140 amp alt is $50 more than the 100 amp

[Crazy2287 1,886]

FYi if you like going to high RPM then you might start shredding V-belts having such a high amperage. That is a lot of turning force if your truly using that capacity. I run a 120A Bosch alternator in a XF alt housing and have this problem. Used such a big alternator because I had dual battery and a 6400watt sound system in the car. which is a 500 amp peak. But even that, the 120A alt had no issues keeping up because the average power draw is WELL under the maximum.

 

Having said all that,

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=140+amd+alternator&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X140+amp+alternator.TRS0&_nkw=140+amp+alternator&_sacat=0

They look like they have under drive pulleys on them so RPM might be fine? And they are not too expensive. If you think you need the power then go for it! Alternators are VERY simple things. If they are built well they should last a long time. Just keep it shielded form the exhaust heat. As the heat can kill em.

[slydog 7,873]

This where I'm a little stuck in mine has a large 100mm pully to stop throwing belts,which it now doesn't do thanks Mr ATI and Mezire but by fitting the larger pulley I reduce the output of the ALT again. So I have a 85 amp ALT turning a 35mm bigger pulley and under normal driving its fine but start stop heat cycles and turning the car on and off non stop in between races in the staging lanes builds heat,doesn't allow ALT to charge battery and draws on the battery.

 

Think I'll go back to the stock pulley and see how it goe's with the new set up.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Oh did I'm dumb. Good point Rob! The pullys look undersize but they need to be oversize to drop the rpm. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I'm out.

[xfish 20]

ok, so I received the alternator. I mounted it in with a small amount of persuasion, but when I lined up the pulley, the alt pulley was 10m back from lining up with the other pulleys....any idea's?

[Crazy2287 1,886]

10mm spacer?

[tpak addict 1,909]

Got pics?

[slydog 7,873]

Original pulley. I used a fat back pulley off a GT...well I'm thinking something industrial but I what I paid for it and was told it was LOL.

[xfish 20]

Sorry, didn't take any picks, but it mounted into the factory brackets. But is it possible to keep the fan close to the alternator and extend the shaft so the pully would line up with the rest....?

[xfish 20]

or as an alternative, I install a dual pulley, and that should take up the length I need......thoughts

[tpak addict 1,909]

That will work I reckon

 

Sent from my SM-J100Y

[xfish 20]

ok, i bought one, and after a string of fuck ups, it's only a good paper weight. Firstly, the pulley wont line up with the alternator belt, even after turning it into a duel set-up. Then the tensioning bar, gets in the way, and the fans of the alternator hit it..Is not a dead item yet, i might still get some more length to the pullys, and i might have to half the size of the alt tensioner with a angle grinder....

[bear351c 10,270]

Crap........thats a lot of fookin around for a loud stereo.....

 

Can you use a shorter vee belt..??

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Get your original alternator, Gut it, and mod the rear housing to accept the internals out of your new alternator.

[broken-wheel 659]

140 amp alternator is too much, 100amp is enough

you're not going to shred belts if you don't actually put load on the alternator, with no load it will not add much resistance

 

100amp alternator would chew about 1500 watts at full tilt and that's about what? 2HP? you honestly think that 2HP will shred a V belt ?

 

edit:

ok make that 2.5HP as I have no idea how efficient an alternator is or what crappy yum-cha bearings they could be using

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Well i dunno broken-wheel, But no matter what I do my 120A alternator smashes belts. I've tried different brands, tensions and had the alternator installed in 2 positions. I don't run a mechanical water pump anymore so all it's turning is the alternator. and it slowly eats belts away. There is a built up of belt materiel in an arc around the alternator that lands on the eng, rad support and bonnet, It was never a problem when i was turning it below 4500rpm but now i'm going up to 5800 the belts hate it. It's a bosch brand 120A universal.

Could be I am a one off case but I'm generally pretty pedantic with my installs and all i can deduce is it's a combination of the load supplied by a 120A alternator it spinning that fast. I can only imagine a 140A would be worse.

Happy to be proven otherwise.

[broken-wheel 659]

I've seen that on mine, like a build up of crap on the bonnet, i think it's shredding away after I changed the alternator to a "new bosch 120A" one, with the old one was fine, it's almost like thick oil splash?

 

I'm now toying with an ATI balancer with a chevy 7PK pulley and EF alternator but haven't gotten the motor together yet, will do sometimes this year 

[slydog 7,873]

Well i dunno broken-wheel, But no matter what I do my 120A alternator smashes belts. I've tried different brands, tensions and had the alternator installed in 2 positions. I don't run a mechanical water pump anymore so all it's turning is the alternator. and it slowly eats belts away. There is a built up of belt materiel in an arc around the alternator that lands on the eng, rad support and bonnet, It was never a problem when i was turning it below 4500rpm but now i'm going up to 5800 the belts hate it. It's a bosch brand 120A universal.

Could be I am a one off case but I'm generally pretty pedantic with my installs and all i can deduce is it's a combination of the load supplied by a 120A alternator it spinning that fast. I can only imagine a 140A would be worse.

Happy to be proven otherwise.

 

 

Since going to the ATI the engine actually was quieter and smoother. Maybe the old Powerbond unit just needs a rebuild cos it is like 7 years old now but going for the larger pulley also helps A L O T which takes away the benifit of charging at lower RPM.As seen @ AFF with my light (s) lol on fans fuel pump and such going @ idle I was down to 11.7 volts charging.Over idle it was fine but under that was poo town.I even popped the bonnet thinking the belt came off but nooooooo it was still on.Tickle the rpm and batt light went out and volts over 13 again.   

 

But back to getting it on,I don't need to charge the battery at meeting and TBH it hasn't been charged in MTHS even though it gets driven once every 2-3mths and only a short burst at a time.So in closing they need a bigger pully unfortunately or ALT on the pinion as that doesn't move.

 

its a bain on any xflow that see's RPM over 5500 and any that doesn't use OS pully's and or a quality balancer.   

[NZXD 2,328]

My XD has a standard rebuilt 55amp alternator on it, I have always wondered if I should have upgraded it.

 

I have next to no electrics in the car, just stock radio, heater fans, and I added the 16inch radiator fan.

 

Anyone see an issue?

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Put a volts Gage on it. If it drops below 13v with all ur electrics on then maybe.