Nath

Yeah that's why I want to switch back to the original strommy, it's a 3.3 so a Weber isn't going to make it fast, just more shit to go wrong.  
I tried loctiting it in and I think I still had issues with the bushing falling out. The place selling them just confirmed its a press fit. From memory the hole might have been tapered and the bushing wasn't (also brass doesn't mould itself to the shape of the well to seal it as far as I know) so not sure how that's supposed to work in real life. Maybe I did something wrong before and I'll see when I take it apart.
 
Edit: They sent me these instructions so I guess it's a press fit, we'll see later.
 
My XD has aircon although not working at the moment, hopefully I can find the other half of the assembly.
 

Guess it depends what you're after, unless it's a track car I figured it wasn't worth the potential defects/roadworthy issues - it's a 40 year old Falcon and will always handle like a boat, it'll just be a boat with expensive coilovers 😂 Not sure it's worth the extra drama and money over just getting a good set of standard kit.

I got the XYZ kit for an XD (only the fronts though), cost just shy of a grand at the time I think. They seemed good when I had them in but didn't want the hassle with getting engineering etc, took them out for RWC.

My brother's bike has a connector hard-wired onto the battery to fit a trickle charger so you don't have to take it apart every time you want to charge it. Could you maybe do something similar to that and just leave the plug in a convenient place to hook up when you want to jump it?

I'll have to remember that fuel line trick when I go to restart the motor (need to remove the 4ltr, paint the engine bay and put the EFI back together and back into the bay first...)

I had some good luck with a cheap eBay special radiator, daily drove with it for a couple of years and it's still fine now even after sitting for a few more.
 
For the fuel issue - mine always had a problem pulling fuel from  a dry line, I guess it can't suck air through. The times I've had to start it after sitting for ages I've always had to pour some fuel into the soft line between the rail and pump to prime it first.

Update on this: The place in the UK emailed me back, DGV manual choke setup won't work as the locking ring is a different shape so the holes won't line up, their locking ring what the choke cable connects to so it's necessary. The element connection is also different, Weber has a tongue while DGV has a pin that attaches to the mechanism.
 
So as far as I can tell there's no manual choke setup for the 34ADM available.

If there's a way to get behind it, there's rod tools you can use to pop it back out as well. Also a lot of the paintless dent removal kits include knock down punches and puller tools  - when you pop it out sometimes you get high spots and the metal is under tension so that might be what's causing it to cave back in. It's not as easy as just pulling it out, I think you need to spend some time with a light next to it getting it perfect so there's no high/low spots. Also heat helps apparently if you have a heat gun.
 
 
I'd try and avoid using filler if at all possible but I guess sometimes you can't avoid it unless you can weld.
 
 

Yeah tried them, no clue 

Yeah tried them, no clue 

No they won't.

As Dean said they'd fit 88 onwards XF ute or van, which bolt in from inside the car.
Anything 87 or earlier, has nuts that go on the sealt bolts, from under the car.

And no, the seats won't bolt directly to the early rails and work - without modification.
From memory (been a long time) you can enlarge the holes in the seat rails and bolt the seats to it, but they'll have a lot less range of back/forward movement because they'll end up slightly angled inwards/outwards.

I think they need an adaptor bracket to go onto the original rails which is where I think the issue is.
 
Looking on the site it seems they're ADR approved but that doesn't mean it won't need a cert I think. Suppose I can just put a seat cover on the originals for the inspection 

Ah okay, those are Fairmont ones apparently. Not really fussed what I put in there as long as it passes blueslip.
 
People are taking the piss with seat prices though, 1200+ bucks for a reasonable set of XD ones.

Haha that's the best, wish I still had a mate who worked there.
 
 
Yeah there's heaps of options, some look stockish too. As long as it doesn't require an engineer cert to pass inspection or something stupid like that I'll get a set.

Haha that's the best, wish I still had a mate who worked there.
 
 
Yeah there's heaps of options, some look stockish too. As long as it doesn't require an engineer cert to pass inspection or something stupid like that I'll get a set.

Cheers, ordered one from eBay, not a lot of options anywhere - 44 bucks!

Will check that out. My son works for repco, who now own rsre spares, so I'll get it for employees cost.

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Cheers lads, someone on an FB group helped out with these.

Cheers lads, someone on an FB group helped out with these.

Ended up using the auto console, made up a blanking plate from a bit of plastic to block off the extra space, just have to glue everything up now.
 
Got an extra long shifter boot so I won't have to secure it to the bottom of the console, maybe I can do it to the hump to avoid cracking the crusty old plastic. Won't look perfect but it'll be alright. The ring I had didn't fit so I can't see another way to secure the boot without breaking stuff.

Yeah that's the price for the pair, delivery is like 100 extra. I like the second ones too.

Someone with enough money to buy the remaining 13 if it explodes?

Buy it... Then send me the link so I can buy one too.
 
Lets you rev the 250 higher but the pistons to suit are stupid hard to come by.

Things I know about boost:
 
A magical snail whistles and makes your car go faster.

Things I know about boost:
 
A magical snail whistles and makes your car go faster.